Question about Rinnai Toyostove Direct Vent Heater: Laser 56 Toyostove Direct Vent Heater

1 Answer

Exhuast smell(odor) my laser 30 toyo stove gives off an odor of K-1 most reminscent of partially burned fuel oil. I burn K-1 as recommended. the stove was new Dec 06' and ran relatively fine until about Feb 2006 when this ordor situation showed up. the gaskets surround ing the combustion chamber appear fine. Could it be that wind is blowing the fumes back through the unit and then in to living space???? Help!!!!!!!!!!!! I've had my Laser 56 for approx 6 years. The problem was never noted until about 2 years after the stove was installed. Suddenly, my house began filling with diesel-like fumes whenever there's a strong NW wind. It never occurs without a strong wind out of the Northwest. Any ideas?

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  • jkraz Mar 02, 2009

    No. The laser 56 is a different unit. Somehow, my message/question merged with that posted by a laser 30 user. My actual question was as follows:
    I've had my Laser 56 for approx 6 years. The problem was never noted
    until about 2 years after the stove was installed. Suddenly, my house
    began filling with diesel-like fumes whenever there's a strong NW wind.
    It never occurs without a strong wind out of the Northwest. Any ideas?



  • jkraz Mar 02, 2009

    Would that cause an odor that only occurs in particular wind conditions? The fumes ONLY occur with a strong wind out of the NW. Most days there are no fumes. It's totally weather dependent.

  • Thomas Hawkins May 11, 2010

    J,

    Is the Laser 56 is the same unit as the Laser 30? If so I would be looking at the 56 first.

    Keep me posted,

    Tom Hawkins
    hawkins111@gci.net


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  • 126 Answers

J,

If your Laser 56 is giving off fumes it is probably coming from the igniter gasket and the igniter guide gasket. The igniter gasket has broken and needs to be replaced with the new style. The new style cost about $12. The guide gasket is the fiber gasket around the hole the igniter goes in. It has seperated and all you have to do is smash it back together. If you have high temp silicone or furnace cement, you can use either to seal the crack. Any toyotomi dealer can get you the new igniter gasket # 17185580.

Good luck,

Tom Hawkins
hawkins111@gci.net

Posted on Mar 02, 2009

  • Thomas Hawkins Mar 02, 2009

    J,

    The reason you have a smell during windy conditions is that the air is migrating through the heater when it is off. If there is a broken gasket, the air finds it's way out of the heater and into the room. The smell is not CO. It is just air being blown over carbon or soot. It is obnoxious no doubt. A Laser 56 with a broken igniter gasket or guide gasket will smell when it's windy sometimes. Your Laser 56 is what we call a negative pressure heater. That means when the stove is firing the pressure inside the burner is less than your room pressure. Any compromised gasket will allow room air to be sucked into the unit when it is running. This feature has it's good side as well as a bad side. The good side is no CO in your house. The bad side is that carbon touches the exhaust fan and can cause an imbalance. It is my recommendation you fix the heater and not go with the easier fix of putting up a baffle.

    Tom Hawkins
    hawkins111@gci.net



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Buffalo12980
  • 625 Answers

SOURCE: exhuast smell(odor)

no, because the whole combustion chamber and piping is a closed system with the exception of the intake and exhaust which is a double walled pipe. you might check the tightness of your K-1 fuel line or look for leaks under the filter compartment where the solenoid pump is located. the fuel goes into the chamber via a small copper line with a silicone gasket under the gland nut.

Posted on Dec 14, 2007

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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I have a toyostove laser 30 and it leaks at the bottom (there is no parts or stove damage) and it does not burn cleanly. I will smell terrible oil fumes after every heating cycle. What should I do? I have...


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http://www.hannabery.com/faq14.shtml

"Odor problems can be as serious as a gas leak or as simple as a dirty air filter. But remember, a good mechanic doesn't just use his hands. He uses his ears and nose. Unusual odors could indicate a serious problem and should not be ignored. 

We will go through each of the five categories and list the possible causes and things to check.


1. Electrical odor - Electrical odors are usually caused by parts overheating. Indoor blower motors are a common example. If there is a mechanical failure such as the bearings seizing up, the motor over-heats and the insulation on the wires and the motor windings themselves start to melt, causing the odor. 
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It is possible for a very dirty air filter to cause the odor. If the airflow is restricted enough, it could cause electric resistance heaters to overheat, even burn-out. 

If you smell an electrical odor, check your air filter. If it is not blocked, shut off equipment at the breaker if possible and call for service. 


2. Burning odor - This is similar to an electrical odor only worse. It is also sometimes accompanied by smoke. Once again, this can be caused by parts or wiring burning-up. 

It can also be debri such as plastic getting into the ductwork and melting on the electric resistance heaters or heat exchanger. 

If you smell a burning odor, check your air filter. If it is not blocked, shut off equipment at the breaker if possible and call for service.



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Now excluding that "worse-case" scenario, if you notice an odor that smells like gas and it seems to be coming out of the supply vents, it usually isn't gas. Sometimes dust that settles on the heat exchanger during the summer months burns off at the beginning of each heating season and it smell just like gas. 

If the odor doesn't seem to be coming from the vents, try to pinpoint where the smell is coming from. Use your nose. If it is gas, it usually would be from a leak in a pipe fitting or at the equipment itself. 

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Check for air leaks in damp areas, oil stains or rumbling sounds, strong gas odors - these all indicate problems. Do not ignore them. 

Hope this helps, remember - these are just rough guidelines and not all possible situations are covered."

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1 Answer

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Hi EJAKFbanks,

I believe by your description and my 8 years experience with Toyo Stove repair that you are missing part of the firing sequence. The firing sequence for a Toyo Stove L 56 is to blink on the burner light for 7-9 minutes, then it clicks up to the medium light (amber-yellow color). The medium light blinks and that is when the fuel pump kicks on and starts to pump. If the stove ignites, the medium light will glow for a second and then drop down to the low light (green) The low light will burn for awhile and at this time you will see a blue flame in the newer heat chamber models or a red glow, and perhaps some blue flame in the older heat chamber models, then the stove will kick up to the medium light for a bit, and then to the high light. An EE6 error code will show only when the flame is extinguished after actually taking place and a burn did occur in the chamber on low. An EE6 is usually one of 2 things: 1. There is an inadequate fuel supply for the stove to maintain a low cycle burn, or the medium, or high. Each cycle consumes more fuel than the prior one. Inadequate fuel supply can be due to a restriction in the fuel line such as icing like cholesterol in a persons arteries, or a plugged sump screen, blocked fuel line or filter, too low a quantity of fuel in the tank, or a fuel line that is not all gravity feed, as in, the fuel line runs down, down, and then up a few feet to get to the Toyo. In that case, the fuel has to rely on head pressure to get to the stove. Head pressure is the atmospheric pressure pushing on the fuel in the tank to force it up against the earth's gravity forces. Solution: You can find any restriction in the line, replace the filters, clean the sump screen, put heat on the fuel line to thaw any icing blocks. 2. An EE6 can be caused by a carbon chain developing from the burner ring, flame sensor or chamber wall to any metal part in the burn chamber. A carbon chain essentially "shorts" out the ground for the unit and the Toyo will shut off on EE6. Solutions:You can bang the side of the Toyo (Old frustrated Alaskan solution) which really just jars the carbon chain loose, clean the flame sensor, clean the fuel nozzle with a straight 3 inch wire, and stick a screw driver in the igniter (red wires) hole and rattle it around real good (another old Alaskan trick). Often, those three things will get your stove running again if it is a carbon chain. The problem will likely occur again, but it will buy you some time until you can get a tune-up done. Most likely, you need a tune-up. Question: When was your last tune-up? Toyo's should be tuned up every 2 years. Tthe book says every one year, but in my experience, every two years is the best bang for the customers buck. The three year mark usually begins showing signs of metal fatigue in other parts of the burn chamber/heat exchanger system so the costs rise a little each year, unless you are a lucky Toyo owner and for some odd reason, your stove can go 3 years between cleanings without any ill effect. If you get your stove running, run it hard on High for about 2 hours to clean and burn all the carbon out. Good Luck! toyotech, North Pole, Alaska

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4 Answers

Exhuast smell(odor)


no, because the whole combustion chamber and piping is a closed system with the exception of the intake and exhaust which is a double walled pipe. you might check the tightness of your K-1 fuel line or look for leaks under the filter compartment where the solenoid pump is located. the fuel goes into the chamber via a small copper line with a silicone gasket under the gland nut.

Dec 13, 2007 | Rinnai Toyostove Direct Vent Heater: Laser...

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