My house is heated with an A series Nordyne electric furnace.A couple of years ago it quit and I had a heater guy come out and fix it.It turned out that the 60 amp fuses had failed.The heater guy showed us that the clips holding the fuses were badly corroded which, he said, led to the fuses overheating and failing.We live about 75 yards from the Puget Sound so our environment is damp and salty.The guy recommended that we clean the fuses and clips holding them on a regular basis to prevent this from happening again.
Good advice which I promptly forgot about until the next time the fuses failed.I got new fuses but before installing them I cleaned the clips on the disconnect and the interlock bar which was also crudded over.The fuses failed again and this time the interlock bar and the disconnect itself got a bit melty.
I understand that Nordyne makes a disconnect that relies on breakers instead of fuses.Given our damp environment I’m wondering ifthis is a better option than the original system of fuses.
The other thing I need to know is if I should look further for the cause of the fuse failures.The reason I was given; damp, salty air, sounds reasonable to me but should I be checking for other problems in the heater, the heater coils perhaps?
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The diagrams above may not be exactly what you are needing. But they will be close. Usually the diagram for the furnace is on the inside of the blower fan door. Two things come to mind. It seems like your limit switch(s) are cutting out, then in, then out, etc and may have failed totally. These are in the system to prevent the temperature in the furnace from getting too high. Why they are cutting in and out may be due to the lack of sufficient air passing through the furnace. This can be caused by, 1. the fan speed is too slow, or 2. the air filter is needing to be changed. I am not sure how proficient you are with electrical troubleshooting. I would (turn off all power to furnace) find the limit switches (usually at the top of the heating elements) and check to see (with an ohm meter) if the switches are allowing the meter's current to flow through them. Your meter should read near zero, if not, then I would replace the switch with an exact one. If you are proficient with electrical troubleshooting, I would place the furnace in the "call for heat" position, with the power on, (be careful, this stuff can hurt) and I would see if I have voltage at the heating elements, and I would check with my voltmeter across the two leads on each limit switch if there is voltage present. If there is voltage present, then the switch is probably ****.
Depending on the furnace you have, you might have a number of switches that control the heating elements, these units are usually time delay and if they fail, you should replace them with the same delay time. I hope this helps.
The nice thing about electric furnaces is that they are all just about identical. Here is a electric furnace manual that I like because it actually tells you how to troubleshoot different components. http://www.nordyne.com/Literature/359a.pdf
This should be 110v so you will have black wires, white wires and ground wires. The grounds wires both go to the ground bar, the whites wires both go to the nuetral bar, or can be wire nutted together, the black incoming (feed) wire goes to the buss bar that the breaker plugs into and the black going to the furnace goes into the breaker lug.
Intertherm does not offer a wiring diagram for the E1 series anymore. So I have included a link to the E2 series. They are very similar and you may find this service manual helpful for whatever problem you may be having.
when was last time furnace was serviced --air filter change burner area cleaned vacuumed the hum can be a few reasons ---fan bearing need service [ oiled ] fan bracket bushings damaged or loose --burner out of adjustment burning improper etc these are a few