Question about Goodman CPLE24-1 Air Conditioner

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NO HEAT BLOWER COMES ON IN MANUAL OR WITH AC BUT NOT WITH HEAT. HEATING COILS HEAT UP AND THEN SHUTS DOWN

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A blower relay usually has a set of closed contacts that go to the  motor and when the 1st element comes on the power goes on through the sequencer and then these contacts and to the motor heating speed. If you have a blower in AC and with the fan sw to ON u can run the blower on manual 100% of the time until someone can come look at it and the heater coils will cycle on and off with the thermostat. Dont worry about the cost compaird to the elements the motor is nothing and the heat it generates is going into the heated home anyway. 

Posted on Feb 28, 2009

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Dryer comes on and runs with heat for about 5 minute's and then shuts off.


The THERMAL protection device is detecting irregular heat sensing temps. If the heating coils are over active, the shut down will occur as a safety issue. Needs professional attention.

Mar 30, 2015 | Dryers

Tip

Why your unit is freezing up.


To understand why your AC or heat pump is freezing up, it helps to know how your system works.

There are 7 major parts to an AC system, 9 with a heat pump.

1 - Condenser/heat pump (The outdoor unit)
2 - Air Handler (the indoor unit unless the system is a package unit, then all is outside in one system. The air handler is usually found under the home, in an attic, or in a closet.)

In the condenser are the following major parts.

3 - Compressor
4 - Condenser coil
5 - Condenser fan
6 - (HPs only) reversing valve

In the air handler are the following major parts.

7 - Blower motor
8 - Evaporator coil
9 - (HPs only) electric heat strips

Some systems known as "dual fuel systems" use another heat source in place of the heat strips, usually a gas furnace. I will address gas furnaces in another post.

When an air conditioner is operating properly several things are taking place.

1 - The compressor is compressing or "pumping" refrigerant through the system.

2 - through changes in pressure, the refrigerant makes the evaporator coil get very cold, and the condenser coil gets very hot.

3 - The blower motor/fan circulates air across the evaporator coils, as the room temperature air (Also known as "indoor ambient") goes through the cold coil, it exits, cooled approximately 15 to 20 degrees cooler than when it entered. (In a ducted system, the blower is also the fan that circulates the air throughout the home.)

4 - The condenser fan circulates air across the condenser coils. As the outdoor air goes through the condenser coil, it removes heat from the coils that are very hot. This in turn removes heat from the refrigerant so it can run its cycle again, and through pressure changes, cool the evap coil.

5 - With a heat pump, the reversing valve reverses the flow of refrigerant in the condenser and evaporator coils.
In AC mode, the evaporator coils get cold, and the condenser coils get hot. But in heat mode, the evaporator gets very hot, and the condenser very cold.

Now, whichever coil is getting cold will freeze up if there is inadequate air flow across the coil, as the refrigerant in it is far below freezing, and there is not enough airflow to keep the humidity in the air from freezing on the coil.

Things that can cause poor airflow are,

1 - Dirty/clogged coils
2 - dirty/clogged filter (will only effect evaporator coil)
3 - Closed/blocked vents (will only effect evaporator coil)
4 - Malfunctioning or dirty fan

Low refrigerant will also cause a coil to freeze up, reduce efficiency and cause the system to run for long periods of time. Not to mention, shortening the life of the unit.

With a heat pump, in heat mode only, the condenser (outdoor) coil will routinely begin to freeze up in cold temperatures. This is due to the fact that the refrigerant is below freezing, and the cold outdoor ambient temp is not warm enough to keep the condensation in the air from freezing on the coil.

Note, a properly working AC should never freeze up.

A heat pump is equipped with defrost controls to prevent ice buildup.
Some are controlled by timers, some by temp.

When a HP is going into defrost mode, the condenser fan shuts down, the reversing valve reverses the flow of refrigerant and the once cold condenser coil now gets very hot, defrosting the coil. (Many people have said this process sounds like the unit is coming apart, or about to explode and are frightened by the "smoke" which is really just steam from melting ice that comes off the unit.)

During defrost mode, the secondary or "auxiliary" heat comes on to ensure that you are still getting warm air from the vents. (Again, this can be electric heat strips or a dual fuel system)

If you are experiencing cold air from the vents during defrost, that means your auxiliary heat is malfunctioning.

The auxiliary heat is used for three purposes.

1 - during defrost mode to maintain warm airflow (automatic)
2 - when the HP cannot maintain the set temp due to extreme outdoor temps. It comes on when the indoor temp drops several degrees below the set temp on the thermostat (automatic)
3 - For emergency heat source when the HP is not working. (Manual)

To recap....

Iced up coils?

Poor airflow
low refrigerant
Malfunctioning fan
failing defrost system


There are two things that can be done in a pinch to help de-ice frozen coils. This may get you by until the repairman can get there, or you can fix the system if you are a do-it-yourselfer.

HPs frozen outdoor coil in heat mode, not going into defrost?

Cover most of the vents, and turn the system onto cooling mode until the outdoor coil is thawed. then uncover vents and return to heat, or emergency heat. (this usually takes 15 min or less)

Frozen coils in AC mode with a heat pump?
Turn the system to heat with the thermostat on just high enough to get the system to come on. (again, usually takes 15 min or less to thaw.)

AC only, with frozen evap coils? (this can sometimes be seen frozen all the way outside to the compressor on the copper lines.)

Turn the system off, and the fan switch from "auto" to on".
This will usually defrost the coils within 1 to 2 hours.
(If your system has the furnace in line before the evap coil, turn the system to heat, and the furnace will defrost the coil within minutes.)



on Dec 25, 2008 | Carrier XHB123D X/Y Series Heat/Cool Air...

1 Answer

Our dryer shuts off completely when we dry several loads in a row. It restarts when we allow it to cool down. What is the problem?


Dryer runs then shuts down wont start up for an hour:
Bad motor windings OR DRYER OVERHEATING:

Heating Element
A defective heating element can make a dryer too hot. If the element partially shorts out, it can produce heat all the time, regardless of whether the dryer is calling for heat. Remove the heating element to inspect it. The coils should not be touching each other or anything else.

Other Causes and Conditions
Air Flow Problem
Dryers need good ventilation to work properly. If the vent is clogged it can make the dryer too hot. Clean all of the vent tubing thoroughly.

Cycling Thermostat
Although not common, a defective cycling thermostat can make the dryer too hot. The cycling thermostat is supposed to turn on and off the heat to maintain the proper temperature. If the thermostat is defective it may keep the heat on too long. The thermostat is not adjustable or repairable, it must be replaced.

Felt Seal
Most dryers have a felt seal at the front and rear of the drum to keep the heat inside the drum. If the felt seal is worn away or missing, the dryer may keep heating and make the dryer too hot. This is not common.

Blower Wheel
A defective blower wheel will not spin properly and will not vent the hot air, making the dryer too hot. Check to see if there is adequate airflow out of the dryer.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3m5NZvY9V5Q

Sep 30, 2014 | Dryers

1 Answer

I have an intertherm electric furnace. the heat coils heat up then system shuts down


It is possible that high temp limit is shutting you down.make sure your blower is running when t-stat is calling for heat.if notstart at the heat sequencer which cuts the blower on with first bank of heat. it will be dangerous and difficult to troubleshoot this prob without a multimeter and experiance with elect. components

Nov 05, 2011 | Intertherm P3RA-048K Air Conditioner

1 Answer

Timer won't advance on autosense,seems to work normally otherwise. timer advances fine on all other settings. was thinking it was the cycling thermostat, but the blower seems to be cycling. puzzled


when on auto the heat comes on and then shuts off and then the timer advances,when the heat comes back on the timer stops advancing,when on time dry the timer will advance no matter what's happening with the heat.next time send the brand name and model number so i can help you better,if it's gas you could have bad gas coils,you'll have heat for like the first 15 to 30 minutes then when the coils get hot they fail and no heat until they cool down,also if the vent line and the duct that the lint filter goes into hasn't been cleaned out the heat will shut down and if that happens the timer isn't gonna move.check that out and let me know what you find and send the brand and model number.

Sep 24, 2011 | Roper Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer is not heating. where is the heat sensor on DLE5001W


On a gas dryer the gas assembly is simply powered up by a sensor on the blower housing. If heat is called for from upstairs the power flows through the bimetal mounted on the blower housing. Here is a simple bi-metal: themobilian_2460.jpg
See the 4 wires? 2 of them wires operate a small heater inside the control. when it gets heated it shuts down faster for permapress and knits. Next to the control is a fuse on most models as seen here:
themobilian_2461.jpg
That fuse blows if the air temp exceeds 350f. That control thermostat at its hottest setting of cotton shuts down at 160f. It ramps back up at 105f. and continues to send power to the gas assembly till it feels 160f and then it shuts down. SOOO.. if we have a good fuse and a good thermostat 120 volts should get to the gas assembly if heat is needed. The gas assembly has a flame sensor which detects the heat bouncing off the ignitor. An ignitor to light off the gas, and a pair of holding coils. The whole gas assembly is energized at one. But them coils will not supply gas until the ignitor drops out if the circuit. To do so the flame sensor bi metal must shut down the power to the ignitor and that frees up the power to charge them coils and yank open the valve. The gas hits the ignitor and whoosh we have fire in the hole. It takes literally no time for the temp to reach 160 in the blower housing and so the power is removed from the gas assembly and the dryer tumbles onward absorbing the heat till the temp drops down to 105f and that control once again powers up the gas assembly. If your flame sensor is working and shutting down the ignitor and the heat works once or twice but quits then them solenoids are getting hot and quitting because they are old and weak. Replace em and party on.
themobilian_2462.jpgthemobilian_2463.jpgthemobilian_2464.jpg
themobilian_2465.jpg

Jun 18, 2011 | Whirlpool LGQ8000JQ Gas Dryer

1 Answer

My compressor shuts off after a few minutes


Hello
One possibilty is the out side coils or condenser is dirty.And the unit is shutting down on high heat.

Try cleaning the outside coils with some simple green cleaner or even comet spray, then rinse with a hose.

May 27, 2010 | Frigidaire FAS296R2A Air Conditioner

1 Answer

I have a dyno glo rmc-fa100dlx forced air heater. It will light and work for a few minutes, up to about 5, then it will stop heating and the fan will keep blowing. any ideas? thanks!


If the unit comes on and runs but then shuts down, that sounds like an indication of a high limit trip.

Most, if not all, furnaces have high limit switches that keep a constant check on the temp inside the furnace or air handler. On most systems, once this high limit switch has been made (got to hot), the limit switch breaks control voltage to the heating device (strips, gas, fuel, etc.etc..). The blower motor continues to run until the high limit has dropped in temp and reset itself.

On some models, the high limit is a manual reset, meaning you need to reset the switch yourself or shut the unit off and then back on to reset it.


Check all filters and replace as necessary. Check the coils and fan blades for dirt build-up and cleanliness. Check motor belt (if applicable). If all these fail to solve the problem, then your issue either lies within the blower motor itself not moving enough air for proper heat transfer. Or the high limit switch itself is failing.

Jan 09, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

3 Answers

Cycles to temp, then heat shuts off and will not reignite


Hello,This problem is going to be your safety valve coils...basically they get old and over time of heating then cooling develop a short when they heat up...It may appear the gas lights to start but then goes out until the safety valve coils cool back down. Here is a picture of the coils 57d5263.jpgThis should solve your problem. Hope this helps, Please feel free to comment again if you have any further questions or concerns. Good Luck! Mike

Aug 18, 2009 | Whirlpool LGR7646E Dryer

1 Answer

Coleman evcon blower not working properly


My Coleman Evcon ac unit,heater and blower does not work.not even the outside condenser comes on.Any ideas on what is the problem?

Jun 22, 2009 | Coleman Heating & Cooling

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