a 6ya Technician can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Technician (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
This sounds possibly like a power related issue. If you are using a simple power strip to plug into, consider replacing it with an Uninterruptible Power Supply (aka Battery Backup, UPS). AC power related issues can cause screen waviness or shaking. Be sure to obtain the proper capacity unit for your needs. These units are rated in Volt AMPS and come in sizes from 300VA to 1500VA in the consumer product line. APC, Belkin, Triplite, CyberPower are some popular brands. The VA capacity to choose should be considered over price alone. Buying the cheapest one vs the right capacity can result in not having a unit capable of protecting your devices plugged into it. Understand these have 2 primary functions, 1. surge-protection 2. battery backup during a power related problem There are 2 different banks of receptacles on these units. 1. Some for surge protection AND battery backup 2. Some for surge protection ONLY Your computer would be plugged into the surge AND battery backup receptacles. When a power related incident occurs, the unit quickly switches the devices plugged into these receptacles off of AC power to the batteries, until the power issue is resolved. The time on battery is limited based on the VA capacity mentioned earlier in this solution. So buying the largest VA capacity unit you can afford will simply give you more available time on battery before the batteries are exhausted and must be recharged. On the other hand buying the smallest VA unit could result in an immediate and unexpected shut down of the computer if a power related issue occurs and the battery backup cannot handle the devices plugged into it. NEVER use these units for battery backup of Laser Printers or other high curent devices. These can destroy the battery backup. I hope this helps with your screen issue.
Try using the browser Google Chrome, it has flash built in and it is a bit faster. If this doesn't work, you'll have to kill some programs to get more processing power. Press and hold the command key, and then tap tab while still holding command to cycle through your running programs. Let go to stop on one you kill, and then press Command + q to kill it. Do this with as many programs as you can to get better performance, you can always start them up again later. If none of this works, you may need to upgrade your graphics card...sorry.
This is a common issue for G5s. The quickest solution is to open up the computer to see how much dust there is built up inside of the case. If the case has a lot of dust by the fan vent, then it cannot properly get rid of the heat that builds up from processing. Try cleaning that out.
If the computer continues to run hot, there may be some much more major issues, including ram, processor, or hard drive. Ram and hard drive issues are relatively cheap to fix, you can purchase new ram dimms or hard drives on amazon.com or crucial.com. Processors are much harder to replace and it's likely that it would be easier to purchase a new computer, rather than a new processor.
None of the parts are usable in any other machine.
The coolant from a liquid-cooled G5 PowerMac is toxic. If your G5 is leaking, disconnect the power cord IMMEDIATELY. Flush any skin exposed to the fluid with water for at least 15 minutes.
If you want to glove up and extract your hard drive from the machine so as to save your data, do it carefully. Other than that, my recommendation is to bag up the unit and handle it responsibly as toxic waste, using the same guidelines your area uses for antifreeze.
There are seven diagnostic LEDs near the memory banks of this model: six in a tight line between the edge of the logic board and DIMM bank 1, and the seventh just underneath DIMM bank 1 and slightly more inboard. Please tell me which of these LEDs are on and I will tell you what they mean.
I had the same problem... It is the logic board... You need to get it replaced. One way you could try to fix it by resetting the board there should be a little black dot behind the front two fans when you open it up. Press and hold for a few seconds... this resets the board to factory settings. The other way is replace the internal battery. and the third is to replace the logic board. $150-200
I would be very cautious doing this, if you are not an Apple tech. You can damage the connector for the G5 Processors, and render the machine un-usable.
You have to remove the RAM and Processor, then remove the two power connectors that connect from the power supply to the logic board. On the bottom, underside of the chassis, there are four screws. Remove them, then you can tilt the power supply out of the bottom of the unit.