My Kenmore 90 series washer- Model # 20922990 type 111. Stops when the tub is filled and ready to emty. It makes a Humming sound and starts to have an electrical smell. No matter where I put the dial it doesn't work. When I let it rest for a while, it will work again until it gets to the next rinse cycle. I rest it...and then it works again. I was wondering if you knew what the problem could be? I have never repaired a washer before and am wondering how hard this is going to be,...lol..
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This advice is for all Whirlpool manufactured TOP LOADING washing machines. This includes Kenmore, Estate and Roper models as well. This is an easy repair that anyone with a little know-how and determination can perform.
First of all, unplug your washer. You will need to remove the console in order to get to the lid switch. The washer may have release tabs under the console at each front corner. Simply slide a putty knife straight in from the front at each corner and push in while lifting up. You should feel the release tabs push in and the console will pop up.
If not equipped with this type of console, you may have a console that has removable end caps. They can be removed by gently prying up on the top of them from the rear on each side. You may have to use a small screwdriver for this. The caps should pop right off. Once removed, you will need to loosen a screw under each cap. Once you have the console loosened, carefully lift it up and lay it back over the rear panel of the washer in its resting position. Be careful not to damage the small plastic hinges that hold it in place. Now you will need to perform the following steps:
1. Under the console you will find the white plastic lid switch connector plug. Unplug the switch from the connector.
2. There will be two brass colored clips. You will need to remove these to remove the machine casing. Place a flat blade screwdriver straight down into the opening on top of the washer and into the groove of the clip. Push the screwdriver away from you while holding into the groove and the clip will release.
3. Open the lid of the washer and place your hand under the front rim of the opening (DO NOT grab the wash tub). Now pull the case from the frame by lifting from the back first.
You do not have to remove it all the way from the frame, just enough to gain access to the switch. All there is to the switch is a couple of screws holding it in and a ground wire. It's a pretty easy repair job. Some models will have the switch located on the right-hand side of the lid rim opening, while other models will have the switch located adjacent to one of the lid hinges in the rear.
Once you've completed your switch installation, make sure you get the case back on the frame correctly by following these steps:
1. While looking down through the lid opening, place the front lip of the machine case UNDER the washer frame and start leaning it back onto the frame. There are four small cleats that must fit into four slots on the case or the washer will vibrate. Make sure the frame is seated properly, lean forward from the front of the washer, grasp both sides of the rear panel and pull towards the case. The rear panel should be seated and flush with the casing before inserting the retaining clips.
2. Insert the brass-colored clips into the slot on the washer rear panel first (this is the end of the clip with the 90 degree bend), and then push straight down into the opening on the top of the washer with some force. If you have the case seated correctly, the clips will snap back in.
3. Make sure you plug the connector from the console back into the lid switch receptacle BEFORE you reassemble the console. This is easy to forget.
This is a problem with the pump being stuck so the motor cant turn the whole thing. Turn the washer on its side, underneath you can acces the pump, which is connected to the motor by two long clips. remove the pump and take out the colg that caused it to get stuck.
check the setting of the water temp for the rinse cycle. If one of your water supply valves is closed (HOT/COLD) the tub cannot fill with the proper water temp selected. The hum noise you are reporting is associated with the fill solenoid valve located in back of the machine.
Also, I have found the problem to be the screen located in the fill valve clogged with rust and water deposites. Disconnect both water lines and verify the water supply is not restricted.
Hope this helps..
If not, a more thural description of the problem may reveal more clues to assist in troubleshooting.
Thanks and good luck...
When the washer initially fills for the wash, is it only hot water entering the drum? Try switching the water temperature between hot and cold as it fills. If any of them show little or no water getting through, it sounds too easy but check to make sure water supply taps are on, and that the cold/hot fill hoses aren't reversed. Remove the fill hoses and check any of the screen filters for blockage (in the hoses and in the inlet water valve). When the machine stops and waits to fill but all you hear is a hum, it sounds like there is power going to the valve but water is not able to get through it. Good luck!
no the timer doesn't control the water fill the pressure switch does you have three possibility's either the pressure switch is malfunctioning or a water valve is hanging open or the pressure switch pressure hose is leaking or off the tub the pressure switch is connected to the knob that lets you select the water level in the tub if you back out the two screws on the front or back of the end caps depending on the model you can pull the control panel forward and tilt it back to access the pressure switch its gold in color and has a clear latex hose attached to it also take the hose loose and blow through it to make sure its clear with the washer empty of course lol if you need more info just reply to me be glad to help water can also leak out from the pressure switch hose if a mouse has chewed through it or its come loose from the tub