Cars scooter assembly: rear axle appears to be too short

remove lower ball joint and remove axle nut in the center of spindle. then move the spindle out of the way separating the axle from the spindle.

CAUTION: It is advisable to get this job done by a qualified technician otherwise you will take the consequences.
Do the following job at your own risk.
- Place the car on a level floor.
- Pull up the hand brake.
- Block the rear wheels with wheel stoppers, wooden blocks or bricks.
- Call a friend or relative to depress the foot brake, turn the steering wheel little towards left side and put the car in 4th gear.
- Loosen the axle nut force fully (large one in the center of wheel) with a socket and double extension rod.
- Loosen the four wheel nuts.
- Lift up the front left wheel with Jack, place a support under the strong chassis and remove the jack.
- Remove all the wheel nuts and remove the front left wheel.
- Place a container or tray under the inner CV joint to preserve the transmission oil which will come out unavoidably during the axle removal.
- Remove the lower ball joint nut.
- Remove the tie rod end.
- You don't have to remove the hub completely but to release it a little.
- Pull the hub out by pressing the CV joint in and take the outer end of the CV joint out of the hub.
- Place a strong long chisel like lever between the inner CV joint cup and the transmission and push the cup away from the transmission to take the lock out of its host.

Yes, the oil reservior separates from the wheel assembly. Here is the whole process for removing the rear wheel assembly. In order to remove the rear wheel assembly, you are going to need a motorcycle lifting jack stand or similar device.

1. Stand the bike on the side stand

On the left side of the rear wheel:

2. Remove the two forward facing bolts.
3. Remove the allen head bolt with the wide head.

On the right side of the rear wheel:

4. Remove the brake adjuster nut on the end of the actuating lever.
5. Remove the Toque link nut at the bottom of the wheel assembly.
6. Remove the axle nut (castle nut and cotter pin). Move aside the now loose plastic former on the left side of the bike and remove the axle from that side. You will need to hold the castle nut while loosening the axle.

7. Place the motorcycle jack under the swing arm or chassis tubes to stabilize the rear end. Lift the motorcycle until the rear tire is just off the ground.
8. Remove the axle. When you remove the axle, the spacer under the left side cover will probably fall out.
9. Remove the three cap nuts (left side) and use a screwdriver to gently pry the wheel from the splined drive gear and place the wheel assembly on the ground.
10. Pull the wheel assembly rearward.

Reverse the process to replace the wheel. Check the level of the final drive oil and fill as needed with SAE90 hypoid gear oil with a GL-5 rating. While you have everything apart, you should also check the brake pads and wheel bearings for wear and replace if necessary. God Bless and good luck!

I had the same problem. I bought this scooter for my daughter at a flea market and the rear axle was gone, someone had tried to fix it with a bolt, but it was very unstable. Here is what I did and it has seemed to work well. This will cost you less that 10.00 at your nearest home improvement store.
You will need
1x - 5/16 x 8 hex bolt 1x - 5/16 nut 4x - 5/16 x 1 1/4 flat washers 2x - 1 1/4 hard rubber stoppers 1x - 3/8 drill bit & drill 1x - gorilla glue or lock tight
Ok... before we start let me tell you what all this is for and how it works. The way I assembled this was, hex bolt, 1 washer, wheel for scooter, 1 washer, 1 rubber stopper (Insert this into the metal tube on the back of the scooter, so that on the other side you will just have a bolt sticking thru) now, 1x rubber stopper, 1x washer, other scooter wheel, 1x washer, hex nut.
The rubber stoppers are the hardest part and the reason for them is to keep the bolt going thru the middle of the axle tube. This will help to eliminate the scooter from wobbling.
Now, if you have read this far here is how we did it in order.
1. Take both rubber stoppers and trim them with a kitchen knife so that they will fit into the metal tube on the back of the scooter securely. (do not push them all the way in yet)
2. Drill a hole thru the middle of both trimmed rubber stoppers with the drill and bit
3. Take your hex bolt and slide a washer on
4. Slide your 1st wheel on
5. Slide on a 2nd washer
6. push on the trimmed rubber stopper to where it meets the washer. (The wheel should be able to still spin pretty freely, If you think it is to tight just pull the rubber stopper up a bit)
7. Take this assembly and push it into one side of the metal tube on the back of the scooter (you want the rubber stopper to be and flush with the edge of the metal tube and you can)
8. Your hex bolt will be stick out of the other end of the tube, slide on the last rubber stopper try and work it into the tube as best you can.
9. slide on 3rd washer
10. Slide on last wheel
*At this point I put the scooter on its side and pushed down on the wheel to force the stopper into the tube
11. slide on 4th washer
12. screw on nut
*Now I found that if you put the nut on to tight the wheels would not turn, but if you left it loose it would fall off.
13. To fix the above issue we put some gorilla glue on the bolt threads and screwed the nut on, we would spin the back wheels until we were happy with the amount of tension on the wheel. We then put some more glue on the top of the nut to help hold it in place.
14. Let the glue dry
Thats how I fixed my daughters scooter. I am in NO WAY a professional or expert at this stuff. Just a dad trying to make his baby happy. Hope this works for you!

In order to remove the rear wheel assembly, you are going to need a motorcycle lifting jack stand or similar device.

1. Stand the bike on the side stand

On the left side of the rear wheel:

2. Remove the 2 froward facing bolts.
3. Remove the allen head bolt with the wide head.

On the right side of the rear wheel:

4. Remove the brake adjuster nut on the end of the actuating lever.
5. Remove the Toque link nut at the bottom of the wheel assembly.
6. Remove the axle nut (castle nut and cotter pin).

7. Place the motorcycle jack under the swing arm or chassis tubes to stabilize the rear end.
8. Remove the axle.
9. Remove the axle from the splined drive gear and place the wheel assembly on the ground.
10. Pull the wheel assembly rearward.

Reverse the process to replace the wheel.

In order to remove the rear wheel assembly, you are going to need a motorcycle lifting jack stand or similar device.

1. Stand the bike on the side stand

On the left side of the rear wheel:

2. Remove the 2 froward facing bolts.
3. Remove the allen head bolt with the wide head.

On the right side of the rear wheel:

4. Remove the brake adjuster nut on the end of the actuating lever.
5. Remove the Toque link nut at the bottom of the wheel assembly.
6. Remove the axle nut (castle nut and cotter pin).

7. Place the motorcycle jack under the swing arm or chassis tubes to stabilize the rear end.
8. Remove the axle.
9. Remove the axle from the splined drive gear and place the wheel assembly on the ground.
10. Pull the wheel assembly rearward.

Reverse the process to replace the wheel.

In order to remove the rear wheel assembly, you are going to need a motorcycle lifting jack stand or similar device.

1. Stand the bike on the side stand

On the left side of the rear wheel:

2. Remove the 2 froward facing bolts.
3. Remove the allen head bolt with the wide head.

On the right side of the rear wheel:

4. Remove the brake adjuster nut on the end of the actuating lever.
5. Remove the Toque link nut at the bottom of the wheel assembly.
6. Remove the axle nut (castle nut and cotter pin).

7. Place the motorcycle jack under the swing arm or chassis tubes to stabilize the rear end.
8. Remove the axle.
9. Remove the axle from the splined drive gear and place the wheel assembly on the ground.
10. Pull the wheel assembly rearward.

Reverse the process to replace the wheel.

Removal & Installation To Remove:

1. Before servicing the vehicle refer to the precautions at the beginning of this section
2. Loosen the lug nuts on the wheel and tire assemblies but do not remove the lug nuts
3. Raise and support the vehicle
4. Remove or disconnect the following:
   • Wheel and tire assemblies
   • Axle lubricant into a suitable container
   • Rear driveshaft
   • Parking brake cable
   • Brake calipers
   • Shock absorbers from the axle brackets
   • Vent hose from the rear axle vent fitting
   • Nuts and the washers from the U-bolts
   • U-bolts, spring plates and spacers from the axle assembly
5. Lower the axle assembly from the vehicle

To Install:

1. Place the rear axle assembly under the vehicle
2. Align the rear axle assembly with the springs then connect the spacers, spring plates and the U-bolts to the rear axle
3. Raise the rear axle assembly into position
4. Install or connect the following:
   • Washers and nuts to the U-bolts; Torque to: 59 lb-ft. (80 Nm) then, Torque to: 89 lb-ft. (120 Nm)
   • Vent hose to the rear axle vent fitting
   • Shock absorbers to the rear axle
   • Brake calipers (See: Brake Caliper)
   • Parking brake cable (See: Parking Brake Cable)
   • Rear driveshaft (See: Rear Driveshaft)
   Wheel lug nut tightening sequence
   
   
5. Fill the rear axle with lubricant
6. Bleed the brake system (See: Brake Bleeding)
7. Install the wheel and tire assemblies
8. Lower the vehicle to the ground
9. Torque lug nuts as follows:
   • Single Wheel: Torque to: 140 lb-ft. (190 Nm)
   • Dual Wheel: Torque to: 175 lb-ft. (240 Nm)
10. Road test the vehicle to check performance

The tie rod ends are at the inner wheel of your steering rack.

Loosen the road wheel and jack up the car, then put the car on an axle stand.

Now remove the wheel.

There is a locking nut on the steering arm locking the tie rod. Slacken this nut and replace it finger tight.

Undo the nut holding the tie rod to the hub assembly.

Using a ball joint splitting tool, loosen the tie rod ball joint and lift it clear from the hub assembly.

Now unscrew the tie rod and count how many full turns it takes to come of the steering arm.

Refitting is the reverse of the dismantling proceedure. However count the turns as you put on the tie rod, the same way as you did when you took it off.

When all the work is done. You will have to get the tracking checked out by your local tyre centre.

Ray

Lift the passenger side of vehicle. Remove tire/wheel assembly. Remove the axle nut. Remove the tie rod end nut. Smack the side of the housing the tie rod end goes into to pop the tie rod end loose and out. Remove the sway bar link. Remove the lower ball joint nut. Smack the housing the lower ball joint goes into to pop the ball joint loose. Pry the lower control arm down to pop the ball joint out. swivel the rotor and strut assembly to the side. Pop the axle out. Reassemble in the reverse order.