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Solved by resoldering some solder joints!!!!!!!
Toshiba Model 57H81 Rear Projection TV - Purchased 11-09-2001
Problem: Toshiba 57H81 Flashing Red Power Light, No Picture/Sound, Blown Fuses F850 + F852
Symptoms January, 2009:
Upon turning on set I got flashing red power light and nothing else.
Removing plug for one minute and plugging in results in:
Audible click, steady red power light for 2 seconds then slow flashing red light
Pushing power button results in steady red for about 2 seconds then slow flashing red light, no other set activity
Removing power cord for several hours and plugging back in made no change
Audible click, steady red for about 2 seconds then slow flashing red light
Possible related note:Over past several months occasionally the entire screen would flicker momentarily and at other times be problem free for weeks.
Fuses F850 and F852 found blown
PD0074 DEF/CON Power Board
There are two main power supply capacitors in this set.They are C-809 and C-810.One their negative lead on the printed circuit board re-soldered leads and nearby contacts. I’m told that because the factory left out a printed circuit board eyelet, the connection will come loose over time.When I called Toshiba customer service they said there was a known solder joint problem causing blinking red light.
Replaced blown fuses F850 and F852.
I actually installed a fuse panel on the inside of the cabinet and routed the fuse connections here instead of ordering the special fuses and replacing them on the circuit board.
Had to use a 5 Amp SLO-BLOW for F850. Fast blow does not survive power up. Get the red blinking light.
Twelve hours of my time over three days to research issue, disassemble set, make repairs, add fuse panel.
Already owned Service Manual and Circuit diagrams from a different 2004 repair.
Less than ten dollars at Radio Shack for fuses and fuse panel. Already had wires, etc.
Some solder. Already owned de-soldering tools, etc.
Visited both local authorized Toshiba factory service repair facilities.One said repair would have to include replacing Q751 + Q752 STK392-110 Convergence Amps with ST392-180, and realigning set for a total of $500+ and it would be more if they had to order a power board. NO THANK YOU!Other shop said $65 for site visit and $30 to make an estimate that could be applied to repair.
you have the ATC311 chassis. do this proceedure and you can track down where the problem is. let me know if you need more assistance. i can also post a link where you can get the training manual at a cheap cost emailed to you if you would like a copy.
5. Apply AC power and press power button.
6. If LED turns on and then off, disconnect J11501 (Audio CBA) and press power
button again. If power LED comes on and stays on suspect Audio CBA. If LED
still flashes or does not light go to step 7.
7. Disconnect J26903 (AV IN CBA) and press power button again. If power LED
comes on and stays on suspect AV IN CBA. If LED still flashes or does not
light go to next step.
8. Disconnect J19500 (Convergence CBA) and press power button again. If
power LED comes on and stays on troubleshoot the Convergence CBA. If
LED still flashes or does not light go to next step.
9. Disconnect J14801 (Deflection CBA) and press power button again. If power
LED comes on and stays on suspect Deflection CBA. If LED still flashes or
does not light suspect DM2 module.
ok since you have checked the main glass fuse on the little board toward the front. You have no flashing led on front of set. this is an indication that you are missing the voltage to your processor. also known as standby. fl231 and the two other little brown rectangular fuses can be blown and the set will still come up and shut down. Are You a technician? The next step i would check is to see if your getting 320 volts out of your main doubler... CAREFULL VERY CAREFULL this will hurt you. so if your not tech.. dont do it.
hard to diagnose with out voltage measurements, first thing i would do is call insurance company and tell them you had a brown out and then the tv went out. a common problem with this tv is convergence amp ic's http://www.hdtvoice.com/voice/showthread.php?t=28929
IF you would like help diagnosing your set. Go to the enclosed link. They have the service manual for your set and offer unlimited chat support for only 29.99. Just click on your sets manufacturer and you will see your model. Then click on the contact us link and provide your email address and they will email your manual and instructions on how to obtain your support. I am one of their techs. This manual contains step by step procedure for troubleshooting Your RCA DLP Light Engine http://servicemanuals.vstore.ca/
I have this exact same issue; search engine took me here. I have been experiencing this problem for about a year now. When you power on, the RED standby light goes out, the power light turned GREEN, you might hear a small pop sound, then the RED standby light goes back on. YOU HAVE BLOWN A FUSE. My problem is this is occuring much more frequently now and I'm going through fused like crazy. So I'm looking for a long term solution.
To replace the fuse, turn off the standby power switch on the front. Unplug the power cable. Open the back panel. All logic and power modules are on the bottom of the cabinet. Therer is a large power module in the middle. In the middle of this module are 3 fuses. The one that typically blows is the one in the middle. It's a 5 amp fuse, but double check the rating before replacing.
You have a short in the power supply. Look at the regulator and or rectifier diodes. These are all on th primary side of the SMPS (switched mode power supply) the secondary side if shorted shouldn't cause a blown fuse at all.