Typically Microwaves are 1000 devices. So you will need a larger than 1000 watt "inverter" to use it. 1000 watts at 90% efficiency is still about 100 amps of current draw. That is 1/0 guage wire if it is over 5 ft long to power the inverter. Energy is NOT free. Takes power to make power.
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You could have a problem with the inverter board or magnetron. If it shows a code like "H98", then it's probably an inverter issue. To test, go to:
I would go with some good 8 gauge. More than that for this amp would be overkill and a waste. Many people thing thicker wire is better but that is not the case. To thick of wire to the power feed can draw to much power and send the amp into protect mode. Also to thick of wire with an insufficient amount of power can actual hamper the amps true abilities.
Use stranded copper wire not solid copper wire for the best results of conductivity.
Make sure to run a 50 amp fuse inline with the power wire right off the battery. Amps surge and it is far easier to replace a $1 fuse than components inside your amp.
Your ground is best served running to a bolt in the floorboard. Using the same size, style and quality as your power wire is recommended.
Your remote wire will connect to the remote wire running from the back of your deck. The remote wire enables your amp to shut off when your deck is shut off. A simple 16 gauge stranded copper wire will suffice for the remote wire.
I recommend hooking the speakers up using one speaker per channel. I don't bridge amps really. If you want more power then buy a bigger amp.
The AV cords will go from your deck to your amp right to right and left to left.
Hi, if you're going to run a smaller wire, you also need to use a smaller fuse. A 50 amp fuse is needed for 8 gage wire. The fuse is there to keep the wire insulation from melting, which is what will happen if you run too much power thru the wire. If you don't plan to turn the amp up too high, this may work fine, but I would test it first with a 50 amp fuse before installing. You will need all of the speakers hooked up and the gain set to max to test the power draw. See the following link on wire sizing for more info: http://www.bcae1.com/wire.htm
The process is pretty much straight forward for any amp.
This is what you will need to get the job done:
15 ft- 4 gauge power wire (RED) with in-line fuse
3 ft - 4 Guage Ground wire (Brown)
15 ft - 12-16 Gauge Remote wire (Blue)
15 ft - RCA Wires
Here are the steps:
BATT - (Battery +12v) - This will be a 4 guage red wire that you will run directly from your car battery to this Terminal. Be sure to buy a wire a with an inline fuse. This is the main power supply to your amp. Be careful 12 volts doesn't sound like much till you see it in action. I would do this wire last, last thing you want is a hot wire accidentally touching some bare metal.
GND - (Ground Wire) - This is the terminal you will use to ground the AMP. Run a 4 guage wire from this terminal and fasten it to some bare metal in your trunk. Not more than three feet.
RCOM/Remote - There will be a small gauge wire from the back of your stereo that will be the remote wire it will be blue, most stereos have this wire labeled. Its purpose is to send a signal to the amp to turn on when the radio is powered on.
RCA Wires - The location for these is not pictured above, on the back of your stereo there will be amp outputs. Your stereo will send all your low frequencies (Bass) to your amp using these wires. On the amp you will see where these wires will go. They are essential to have a system.
The best way to go about this is hook up the power, ground, and remote and test the Amp to see if it powers up. I have seen so many of my friends skip this step and they paid for it later.
I hope this helps if you need any more help let me know.
You need to get another amp for your sub. I would say if you want good quality go for MTX because I have had amps from MTX and never had a problem. what you need to know is look at the fuses on the amp if there are 3 of the 25 amp fuses on there then it should push out about 750 watts but on MTX they under clock the amp so it will push about 800 at 14.4 volts for that you will need a 4 gauge wiring kit with a 60 amp fuse in the fuse link. As far as your other amp hook up the speakers and tweeters to that but be sure to tune in down and you would need a 8 gauge wiring kit. I hope this helps you.
60 amps times12 volts = 720 watts times 80% effic of conv. = 576 watts available for microwave...
You must have a very tiny microwave as most require at least 1000 watts input power. That might have something to do with blowing the fuse. Since the microwave has a very reactive inout, you need a goodly safety margin above the rated watts input.
Without seeing it its a little tuff.
Ok,look at the back side of the inverter,there should be two inputs.One negative- and one postive+.Run the biggest wire you can get to fit in the holes and still lock it down tight,probaly about six gauge wire.
On the hot side +,run the red wire to the battery,but before you connect to the battery,attach a line fuse,Thirty amp should do.Leave fuse out till last step.Run a black six gauge wire to the battery.(You should be able to run the wires through one of the factory rubber grommets on your van,use a stiff wire, or something like a car or cb antenna to attach your wire to the antenna with electrical tape.you may need to cut a **** in the grommet ,so you can push the antenna threw.Be careful not to damage any factory harness wires.)
Secure the inverter to floor of van,make sure the fan can vent well.
Go to battery put in your thirty amp fuse,Then the unit is ready to turn on.Make sure you run your engine while it is powered on,otherwise it wont take long to drain your battery.
Yes, inline fuse as close to the battery as possible. If 4 gauge wire were to ground out without fuse, would most likely start a fire or at least damage other existing harnesses (depending on routing) before a person could disconnect battery.
How do you have the wires hooked from the sony reciever to the inputs on the mtx?
Sounds like your Remote wire is way too big. it should be 14 guage. It only sends a low voltage low amp signal.
Another thing that could be messing up the sounds is the routing of the wires. you should have the power supply wires separate from the Audiop signal wiring. Power should run down the Driver side and Audio down the passenger side.