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Some tv's have a primary power switch along the side or bottom edges (not the small on/off button on the side). This switch is easy to bump when moving the TV. If the switch isn't your problem then you have a bad power supply board inside the TV.
The reason they want you to disconnect the power is to prevent shock while installing the new bulb. The door switch controls the light in the freshfood so you really do not need to disconnect power, just be careful not to stick your finger into the socket. In most cases the bulb is hard to get securely screwed into the socket. The moisture in the refrigerator causes defect in the metal around the bulb socket and causes the bulb not to make a secure connectioin. So to repair your problem you can first off make sure the bulb is securely screwed into the socket. If it does not work you can check the voltage at the socket for the 110 volts. You can do this with any volt meter if you have one. Sometime the new bulbs can also be bad, its rare but possible. If you are not getting the proper voltage to the socket then you may need a door switch. If you have another light working in the freshfood then the door swith will not be the problem. The door switch is the only power feed swith to the socket, so one of those two will definately fixYa. Good luck and have a great day.
If you have unpluged the TV from wall socket and it doesn't come On when you plug in back, either its power supply system or its stored memory has the trouble. Look whether the power indicator light coms on. Ensure that the main power ON/OFF switch at the front panel of the TV is ON. If the front panel power switch, control switch of your wall socket, and all the other electrical connections are OK, and still the TV doesn't come ON, surely the power inverter baord has the trouble and must be either repaired or replaced. if the power indicator light comes on, and your TV doesn't come ON by remote POWER ON button, the settigs that were stored has vanished, and resetting it to its original setting is necessary. Follow its manual for 'initial setup" and so all the recomended setting there. OK.
Try pushing the Hazard switch on the Column several times and see if it restores the connection. From what I understand about the Multifunction Turn switch is that some of the contacts share connections with the Hazard Button.
The contacts work on a type of derailer setup and when the contacts get dirty or wear, things stop working. Moving the Hazard switch resets the points and springs each time you go in and out of the Hazard setting.
If your brake light is working you know the wires to the light socket from the brake switch are okay. Probably would not hurt to check brake light switch as it shares the common wire. The split between the left turn and right turn signal wire has to occur, yet the opposite brake light will stay on steady while the other side blinks.
You say "electrical installation checked OK"...is the machine hard wired into a junction box or does it plug into an outlet?
If in a wall socket the new house circut may be on a wall switch which is currently off. If it is plugged into a GFI outlet it may have tripped, Find another power source to wire to, GFI plugs and dishmachines just don't get along, Learned that some time ago!
There may be an issue with your door safety switch on the unit.
Check for voltage where the house wires are wire capped in the machine if hard wired, sometimes twisting those can cause issues.
I doubt your machine has a reset switch but many hobart units have on on the motors.
You need to check for power coming out of the turn signal switch with a test light, or voltmeter. On older Chevys, the R/F turn signal wire is dark blue. Check the color of your wire at the bulb socket, then locate the turn signal switch connector, and probe that color wire with the ignition switch on, and turn signal switch in the right position. If you have power coming out of the T/S switch, you have bad connection, or open circuit between it and the bulb socket.