Dish washer motor going to empty water but even when power switch is turned off, motor remains running to empty water. also the bank of programme light do not operate.
the programme started as normal when i initially filled it up and switched the programme on to wash.
There's a water leak inside, causing the anti[ flood micro switch to activate. Even a couple of tea spoonfuls of water will cause this. Remove the cover and check the polystyrene float at the bottom. A very small amount of water there will cause the problem. Check for any water leaks or even a slight water surge when the machine starts.
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When I start a new cycle, I first hear the pump run to empty out all
remaining water, and after that I hear the motor run for the regular
washing cycle, but there is no water in the dishwasher. After a few
minutes, the cycle stops, and the washer claims the dishes are 'clean'.
When I try starting a new cycle over and over again, about one in 20
times, the cycle will run normally with water. But then the next time,
the problem starts all over again. Once a cycle starts correctly,
everything works fine, including the rinsing.
Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
No tool, just patience and time! Had the same problem with our Bosch, cap would not even turn!
Suggestions- pour anticalc/limescale fluid into any gap there is around the filter. Empty the machine and you can switch it off providing the door is open! Then pour the contents of at least 2 sachets of proprietary anticalc powder/liquid into the drum direct together with a kettle full of boiling water. Leave overnight at the very least. The following day run just a spin cycle as then there will be no water diluting the mix. This mix will go through the filter and motor and is likely to help release the filter/cap. If you feel like it, do the overnight again. If nothing else it will ensure that the heater element is clean!
I had to spend a couple of hours gently turning the cap back and forth until it finally released its hold- but the filter did not remain attached to the cap by its rubber ring. More patience, anticalc fluid and all was revealed!
I now run an anticalc clean regularly............which reminds me..............!
Story could be lengthly so in brief, check to see if drain pump is not blocked and if door latch is functioning correctly.(use a multimeter if you can). If it all measures out as good, then your control is faulty. Does the water fill up to the correct level when you start the cycle? Does the motor hum when trying to run. If so check the capacitor.
Set the controls to off then power off at the mains for 30 mins and then power mains back on and run a drain program or a full wash program. If the water won’t drain away then the most likely problems are the door interlock switch is faulty, the drain water motor is faulty, there is a blockage in the drain outlet pipe or filter – this will need unblocking, there is a blockage in the water pump – this will need to be unblocked, the controller board is faulty – but this generally shows an error code. First turn off the mains power to the dishwasher then check the internal filter and screen and clean it thoroughly. Then check the waste water hose and any outlet valve and make sure that it is unblocked and free of any obstruction or waste material. If you have access to the water pump you can check that it is free of obstruction and is able to turn and that none of the impeller vanes have been damaged. Then if all this is OK then try turning on the mains power and running a hot wash cleaning cycle to flush out any remaining sludge / debris. If the outlet pipe is clear and the pump motor is turning and there is no pump damage then there has to be a blockage somewhere. You could lay the out pipe flat on the ground with the end draining into a tray to see if any water actually does come out. If it does then you do not have a total blockage. This is because it will be most likely draining out of the machine due to gravity and shows that there may be a partial blockage of the pump is defective even though the motor may be running. You will need to remove the pipes to and from the pump to check for blockages and also remove the pump to inspect for damage to the impeller or a blockage in the pump housing where the hoses connect. If the pump housing is clear and the impeller can be turned freely with your fingers then the direct coupled or belt driven linkage between the motor and the pump is the most likely broken and will need repair or replacement. If the impeller cannot be turned easily and does not turn with the motor running then the impeller or the direct linkage is either seized or broken and will need replacing. If your pump and impeller is belt driven then check that the belt is not slipping – this will normally result in increased noise and a possible smell of burning rubber.