We have a Baxter OV-210 that was made in 93'. What it's doing is when you open the oven door to remove the oven rack, if you do not let the rack carrage come all the way down to the home position before you close the door again it will continue to drive down past the lift motor stop switch. If you let it come all the way down before you close the door again it works fine. Our other OV-210's change direction as soon as you close the door and begin to lift again until they hit the rack lift stop switch. This oven has new relays a new lift motor, all new swiches for the door and rack lift and drop stops. All wire check out for our wiring diagram for that oven. Our Maintenance crew has many years of experience with these oven, but can not figure this one out. Please help.
Check the lineator actuator motor. If you remove the top cover there should be a strip of metal stuck on the cover to put pressure on the gear to keep it from free wheeling down. These is a tiny button/nipple that sits in the hole in the top of the gear shaft. Lose it and you're sunk. Work with good light and watch the grease. Good luck
a 6ya Repairman can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Repairman (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
More than likely the element is going bad. Get your hands on a continuity meter, pull the element and touch the red wire to one end of the element; the black wire to the other. Move the element around a bit (bend it slightly). if the needle on the meter registers nothing or flips up and down on the register, you've got a dying element. If it were me, I'd go ahead and simply order a new element. They're not hard to remove or install (they either slip in, male to female, or involve the removal of several small screws. Obviously, make certain your oven is OFF when you repair it.
Take off the right side panel and open the control panel door. Take a long screw driver and stick it in the hole where the flame sensor wire goes and remove the screw holding the flame sensor in place. Clean the metal rod on the flame sensor with a piece of fine grit sandpaper or emory cloth. Put flame sensor back in, make sure no insulation is touching the exposed metal part of the wire connector.
When you open the door check to see if your burner and circulation fan remain on, if they do you have an issue with your door switch. Also if your rotation micro-switch was bad you would get a buzzer every 1 second because the oven would think the carrier isn't rotating. It's hard to troubleshoot beyond that without seeing the oven, its possible you could have a bad relay on your control board. In this case I would call an authorized service provider to have to check the oven out.
On top of the oven is a cover with 6 screws in it, loosen the screws and remove the cover. You will see two pulleys, most likely one of the pulleys are loose, try tightening the set screws, the one on the right can be tricky because the set screw is under the pulley. Good luck!
This could potentially be a very easy solution. First you need to verify if when you open the door does the carrier stop immediately regardless of where it is in its rotation or does it continue to a certain point every time and stop in the same place?
If it stops in the same place you need to adjust the alignment bar on top of the shaft. On top of the oven remove the metal shields covering the rotation and lift assembly. You will see a steel ring with two small bars coming out of it attached to the top of the shaft, these bars strike the rack alignment switch when the come around. Have someone on the ground center the rack carrier. Loose the metal ring set screw and turn it until it is sticking the switch, you'll hear it click. Tighten it a little bit and have them start the oven and open the door to see if it stops straight. Continue making adjustments until it is stopping straight. If when you open the door the rotation stops immediately regardless of which way the carrier is pointing then you have an issue with your rack alignment or pointer switch. Usually in this case the switch needs to be replaced, but sometimes its just a matter of a wire fell off the switch. Before you try to replace any wires make sure the power to the oven is off.
Sounds like you have a water leak! The right side panel needs to come off. Here you will see your copper water lines. Try steaming while watching to see where the water is coming from, most likely its coming from the two spray nozzles that enter the oven near the top in the front and rear. If the leak isn't obvious have an authorized technician service the oven. A leak in this part of the oven left unattended could cause more damage and potentially a fire.