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Re: Photocell and circuit breaker
Hi, Here is my clarification of the instructions for you. The photocell must be protected by at least a 10 amp circuit breaker. The photocell may be installed next to the light fixture. ( not the breaker). Good Luck, this should Fixya!
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Hi Pauline, I'm an electrician and can help you with this problem.
The only breakers that are permitted to be installed in any circuit breaker panel are listed inside the door on the label. Introducing any other type or brand is a fire hazard and a code violation. The national electrical code is very clear on this.
If you need to provide a GFCI protected circuit from this panel, you'll probably need to install a smaller panel from this panel - called "sub-panel" of a brand and type that will accept a GFCI circuit breaker. This is done by purchasing a 2P20A GFCI breaker and a smaller circuit capacity / ampacity panel rated for the same voltage as the main panel. You'll also need a ground terminal strip for this panel, too. A 60A main lug panel with 8 or more circuits type panel might be a good place to start. Purchase a 2P circuit breaker with an ampacity no greater than the sub panel is rated at - in my example - a 2P60A would be right. You may use a smaller breaker (2P40A or 2P50A) if you wish - but none greater. Mount the sub panel in a location near the main panel. Remove and discard the bonding screw or lug (if provided and installed already) that may connect the neutral bar and threaded into the panel enclosure. Install the ground terminal strip you purchased separately into the threaded holes provided for it inside the panel enclosure. Install the Ground symbol sticker next to this bar. Run a 4 conductor cable, pipe & wire, etc. feeder sized for 60A based on the location, temperature, etc. between the main panel and the main lug panel. Terminate the cable the sub panel end as follows: black & red or "hot" wires into the the lugs that are connected to the bus bars, white or "neutral" to the neutral bar and the bare or green "ground" wire into the ground terminal strip you installed previously.
Next terminate the other end of the cable. Power off the main panel completely. Terminate the white neutral and the bare or green cable in the neutral bar in separate terminals. Install only one wire per terminal - do not "double up" wires under a single screw. If there is a separate strip for neutral and separate strip for ground - maintain neutral wires to neutral strip and ground wires to ground strip. Also, do not intermix ground and neutral wires in the others terminal strips! Install the 2P60A breaker in an unused space in the main panel. Connect the two hot wires to the breaker terminals. If using aluminum wires, be sure to clean and apply oxide inhibitor to stripped ends of the wires.
Now, you should have a smaller panel with 8 or more empty spaces for circuit breakers that will become live when the 2P60A breaker is in the main panel is turned on. With it still off, install the 2P20A GFCI breaker in the new sub panel. Run your circuit(s) to this panel. Connect them as usual - but any neutral and ground wires installed must be terminated in their respective terminal strips. As mentioned above, never install them in the others strip.
If installing in a 3 phase environment - you may wish to install a 3 phase sub panel so that 3 phase loads can be connected to it. This will require a 3P60A breaker and 5 wires instead of 4 wires to be run between the two panels. The additional wire would be a hot and blue in color for a 240/208/120 panel.
If you have a Bryant load center, you can use other breakers in it, including the Eaton GFCB120 GFI since several companies unified their design. The GFI (ground fault interrupter) or GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupter), same thing, may be required for a device you are installing, such as bathroom, kitchen or outdoor fixtures. The Eaton series includes very clear installation instructions, but if your problem is that they are missing, then all you do is install the breaker in a open slot in the breaker panel, but you have to attach the neutral [white] wire differently. On regular breakers, the neutral goes right to the ground lug in the panel. With a GFI breaker, it goes through the breaker, and then is connected to the ground lug.
I happen to have one of these in the box, so I've reviewed the installation & on-line literature for this model. Let's address installation notes: Don't connect more than 250 ft of load conductor for the total one-way run, to prevent nuisance tripping. The breaker is to be used on grounded power supply circuits only. We're talking a properly-grounded breaker box, not just the protected circuit. Look at the side of the breaker. You will notice that the curly white wire is meant to be connected to the (properly grounded) neutral bar in your panel. The circuit neutral that you're protecting should be landed on the terminal just above that curly wire. Make sure you have the right neutral! The circuit's hot wire would of course be landed on the topmost screw. You did not state what you mean by "the breaker next to it": just above, just below, or directly across from the GFI breaker? I suspect that you meant just above or below the GFI breaker. And I assume you've swapped out other breakers to rule out a defective breaker. Now, it is possible that you have a "shared neutral" situation. It's a common wiring practice to use one neutral wire for two "hots", where one circuit is fed from the phase A side and the other is fed from the phase B side, (which you'll have in a two-pole, 220V breaker), picking up a 110 volts from each phase. The two 110v "Hots" share a single neutral wire between them to carry return current. The phase shift between the two phases allows this. However, to avoid nuisance tripping of your GFI, your protected circuit cannot share neutrals with another circuit, as the "other" circuit's operation will cause the 6 milliamp differential between current out (hot) and current return (neutral) which the GFI by design senses and trips. Your GFI-protected circuit probably needs its own dedicated neutral! I'd like to hear what you find. Good luck!
Probable not, in order for you to install a 20 amp breaker, the wiring must be a #12 gauge cable.Check the power requirement of your room heater. It should be not more than 15 amps. Check and retighten the connections to the heater. Install a new 15 amps breaker.
The National Electrical Code prohibits the use of mixing circuit breaker manufacturers and circuit breaker panels by requiring all electrical equipment to be certified (UL Listed, FM, etc.). Challenger breakers are UL listed, as are Challenger panels. All the circuit breakers installed must be made by Challenger and must be approved for use in that particular panel (more on this below). Installing a different brand breaker into the panel causes the panel and the breaker to lose the UL / FM listing. The lack of a listing causes the electrical code violation. Should a fire occur, and the source is determined to be the use of a mixed manufacturer panel / circuit breaker installation, you insurance company may balk at paying a claim.
If you are unsure of the circuit breakers that are approved for use in your panel, look on the inside cover of the door. On it should be listed the manufacturer's name and all the devices that that the panel will accept. Deviating from the list will trigger the loss of listing.
A final thought: Most GFI breakers are much more expensive than a GFCI outlet. Install a standard non-GFI Challenger breaker and feed a new outlet (next to the panel) with a GFCI plug via the LINE terminals. Connect the rest of the old circuit to the outlet's LOAD terminals. The portion of the circuit that is connected to the LOAD terminals are now GFCI protected. Overloads will trip the circuit breaker as usual, but ground fault issues will trip at the outlet instead.
I hope this helps and good luck! Please rate my reply. thanks.
You didn't indicate what the problem was. If you're connecting a GFCI breaker, you connect the white lead on the breaker to the neutral bar. You connect the white wire going to the load to the terminal next to that white wire. You connect your black wire to the load to the other ternminal on the breaker. The instructions should be on the box.
if it is a two wire photo cell ( as opposed to a three wire) then the load on the cell is very important check the instructions lots of load sensative photo cells won't work with low voltage lighting or led lights, good luck