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Re: hole in my wall
If the hole is less than an inch diameter: use a hammer to tap the hole edge to bevel around the entire hole. Using the screen type drywall seam tape, cut the tape slightly smaller than the beveled area. Apply drywall spackle or compound to the hole, flush with the surrounding surface, then gently press in the tape evenly. Let it dry (6-8 hours), then lightly sand or wipe over with a damp sponge. Now apply a final coat of compound flush to the wall surface. Touch up with paint.
If large, say 6" or more: get a friend that does drywall to do the repair unless you have woodworking experience! Short of that respond to this FixYa and I can walk you through it.
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You are most likely catching on the rivet with something right by the enterance point. Take this apart carefully to investigate. There is a large spring in there is why I say take it apart carfully. Pain in the rear end to recoil it but that too can be done.
Sometimes the LED type readouts on stud finders aren't as intuitive as one would hope. This will help clear up what you are seeing.
There are usually four LED's and a button on the device. The LED's indicate an increased density in wall, but increased from what? Each time the unit is used it needs to go through a short calibration to get a frame of reference.
This is the procedure:
Place the unit flat against the wall.
Press and hold the button.
The LED will come on for
a second or two then go out.
Slowly move the unit laterally until the LEDs come on
again. You're getting near a stud.
When they top out (all four lit), that is the beginning of the stud. Mark it.
When they start to go back down, that is the end of the
stud. Mark there too. The stud should be between the marks.
That's about it.
It beats knocking on the wall or drilling test holes.
The best thing you can do is shave down a pencil(the lead)The lead shavings act as a lubricant,make a small pile of shavings and blow it into the key hole.Do not use a liquid lubricant,it'll gum up the lock,other then that you could try backing off the two screws holding the lock to the door,don't go so far as to have the lock move.hope I've helped...Don't for get to rate.....
Follow these steps:
1. Useing a piece of scrap wallboard (same thickness has damaged wall) cut a square piece large enough to cover the hole. Place new piec over the hole and trace around edge of rteplacement piece. Cuit along lines with wallboard keyhole saw so that replacement piece fits perfectly. screw a wallboard screw into center of replacement (to act as a small handle) and coat edges of replacement with joint compound. Fit replacement into damaged hole and trowel compound to as smooth a finish as possible. Allow to dry completely the remove screw and sand to a like new wall.
Hi, You dont mention how many holes there are to be sealed, I would assume less than 10? .. a couple of options spring to mind but there may be more!
1. Try using Eternibond sealing tape over the holes .. apparently good for 25-35 years! .. will need to clean the surrounding area carefully before application. Link to site http://www.eternabond.com/
2. You could always use the roofing screws and associated rubber grommets to ensure a watertight seal of the old holes. You may need to place some wood on the underside for the screws to bite into. This may be the cheapest option.
Hope this helps - if so, please leave feedback, if not let me know and I'll try and help some more!
i have been a carpenter for 20 plus yrs and only 3 times was it actually from a house settling. I never put joint compound over caulk. this is a recipe for disaster. If you have tall ceilings and walls the cracks could be from wind sheer. If not it can only be the installation of the drywall and the original taping that was done. if the sheet rock was hung with nails and not screws, that explains it all. sheet rock will pull through the nails from its own weight. that is why you never hear the term screw pops. It will be alot of work to go back and screw the walls and ceilings off but you will be able to fill the nail holes and they will stay filled once the rock quits moving
you can replace the valves without removing the engine by removing the head first. The valves will come with it, however, the mechanical clunk isn't usually indicative of valve issues. I would remove the head, and push on the piston to see if you threw a rod instead. Sounds like the connecting rod was knocking, then gave way, and now the piston isn't moving at all. Another way to tell, is just to put a screwdriver in the spark plug hole, and turn the engine over by hand and see if the screwdriver moves. If not, you need to tear the engine down and fix your rod issue. If you're lucky, you may find the the end cap bolts came loose, and you can put it back together without too much issue. Otherwise, your engine's probably done.
I just bought one too and instructions need deciphering. Select wood or metal with selector switch. Put unit flat against wall. Press and hold on/off button on left. (It looks like it must be kept pressed in at all times to be 'on' and when released it's 'off). The unit with calibrate and give a beep back and lower red LED will stay on. Move unit slowly left/right and more red LEDs light up until green is on. This is 1st edge. Mark it with pencil. Move unit along until Green is off and down to single LED. Then move it back in opp. direction until Green is on again. This is 2nd edge. Attached is a scan of page from Instruction Manual. Quality is lowish as attachment limit here is 150kb.
I had the same problem with mine. I took it apart and inspected it. Mine was a loose connection and after some fiddling with the wires the laser came back on. Put it back together and haven't had a problem with it since. Hope it helps.
put it against the wall so it touches both walls. Then lock it in place with the nut. Next if you have a power miter saw lay it on the table and move the blade so it lines up with the angle thay you have then it will give you the angle for the cut.