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Check to see if this may be caused by a Ground Fault Interrupter. If water has gotten into the electrical system of the machine, this will continue to trip until the fault location has dried out and no longer causing electrical leakage.
If this is a standard breaker that is tripping, this would mean you have a shorted motor causing it to draw excessive current.
The combination breaker/GFI can itself fail; I replaced several of these after only a few years of service.
To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using an short piece of insulated wire, jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the washer back in.
Following is a description of how to gain access to the console and how to remove the cabinet if necessary.
I never posted a problem about a Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P. My model is LA6800XSNO, a completely different product that is 21 years old..
The service manual I purchased with the washer is completely wrong as well - the manual is for a belt drive model and this washer is a direct-drive model. Thanks, retailer; wish I could remember who you are.
There is supposed to be a solenoid, or as Whirlpool calls it a "control magnet" for the spin cycle. This part is not shown in any online parts breakdown online. The part is probably not available.
Here's how I solved the problem: I tossed the Whirlpool washing machine out the side door and sent my wife off to find a new one. It won't be a front-loading Whirlpool, because I don't need my clothes stinking of mold. I'd like to save water and electricity, but not at the cost of spending over $1,000 for a machine that doesn't do its basic job.
It won't be a Maytag because Maytag is very proud of not offering service manuals. As much as I hate GE (because of their **** refrigerators with always fail compressors and never-work icemakers) we'll probably end up with another top loader, maybe a GE.
HERE'S THE SOLUTION: POLLUTE THE LANDFILL WITH ANOTHER JUNK APPLIANCE THAT CAN'T BE REPAIRED.
John, it's possible that it could be the basket drive. It sounds more like the clutch assy. Take the agitator off and look at the drive block. The two ears from the basket drive should be tight into the drive block, I will attach a picture of how it should look. If that looks ok, then I would suspect the clutch. They are not hard jobs, either one of them.