I am experiencing problems with the breaker popping and the small line on the freon has some effect on it for some reason. When u lift up on it then it works but when u dont it pops the breaker. I cant figure out if i have a low amp breaker problem or what? I had it working earlier today but it quit. I am wondering what i need to do to fix it cause the landlord will just put window units in and not fix the problem so i am trying to fix it myself. I really am frustrated about what the problem is with this thing. Any advice will help greatly.
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Re: Residential Coleman unit model 7842-901
Look for a wire that may be or has been touching anything metal such as the line. Over time the insulation on the wire gets worn and it can ground to the metal. When you said low amp breaker problem are you talking about the low voltage control circuit or the high(Line) voltage circuit?
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If you have some cooling, but not enough, then chances are that the system is low on freon. The only reason a system would need freon is because the freon leaked out. If the leak is not sealed before recharging with freon, the freon will eventually leak out again.
Leak repairs are expensive so if it's a small leak it may be more cost effective to recharge the system every two or three years. Freon recharging is not a do-it-yourself job. Only people certified to handle refrigerant (freon) are allowed to recharge an air conditioning system.
1. Extremely dirty air filter restricting the airflow through the inside unit.
2. Extremely dirty (clogged) cooling coil restricting airflow
AND IF IT IS LEAKING
If you do not see ice build-up on the larger copper tubing (covered with a black, sponge insulation) when you run your system, then you probably have a clogged drain line. A clogged drain line is usually caused by algae build-up inside the drain line. And yes, there is something you can do to prevent this condition. Algae is a living plant and will grow in your drain line until it clogs the line. The air handler provides a cool, damp environment for development of molds and mildew and if left untreated these growths can spread into your ductwork.
If only moderate to light buildup is present then there are chemical disinfectants specifically designed for use in air handlers that will kill the existing mold and mildew and control new growth. These disinfectants are safe and very effective and are applied by simply spraying into the filter intake and by placing "Algae Strips" directly in the drain pan. If the coil has mold or mildew present then it also should be treated. Make sure that the face of the cooling or evaporator coil is clean so that air can pass through freely.
HOPE THIS HELPS :)
Hi, I would have to say you have R-22 in this system. 134-a is for autos and some refrigeration commercial units. R-410-a is for the new residential units. and is a very high pressure freon. So, yes yours is R-22. Sincerely, Shastalaker7 A/C, Heating,
A breaker trips because it is overheating. This is caused by the brker being to small, the wiring is to small or the line overloaded. Your unit should be on a dedicated line and the breaker sized to the unit. Also breakers do go bad over time from being overheated and need to be replaced. If the breaker tips instantly it means the AC unit or wire has a direct short. If it runs for a while and then trips the bkr it is in the bkr or wiring.
First of all, an extension cord and GFI receptacle to run an AC unit will almost always blow either GFI or circuit breaker or both due to large current draw from AC unit. If an extension cord needs to be used, keep it as short as possible, and use the heavier gauge that is approved for AC use. What happens when you use an extension cord, is the voltage drop that will happen by the time the AC gets power. With any voltage drop, the amperage draw increases, so a 15 amp circuit breaker will most likely trip. Nowadays, all AC units are wired with a minimum 12 gauge wire rated for 20 amps. You say nothing is happening now, is that to say that the fan only mode doesn't work on the AC unit either?
go outside to the condensing unit there are two copper lines going into the bottom of the unit one small 3/8" line usually bare and the other 3/4-1&1/4" the small line should be warm or hot to the touch and the large insulated line should be could and have a sweat where it goes into the unit. If the large line is frozen you are low on freon and there is a block of ice in the evaporator unit. if it is warm you again have a problem. In either case you will need an EPA certified technician to recharge the unit. If you go outside and nothing is running the check your breaker first. If O.K. then within three feet of the unit is a power disconnect that will either have a pull out handle with slow blow fuses or a breaker if fuses re-place the fuses if a breaker flip the breaker. Then go in and turn your stat to cool. As a safety device there is a three second delay from when you turn on the stat until the a/c starts. MAKE SURE BREAKER IS OF BEFORE CHANGING FUSES. AN A/C HAS 240 VOLTS and between 30-60 amps CAN kill you. However if you use caution you will be O.K.
If the unit is low on freon, there should be visible signs of leaking somewhere in the upper unit. Are you running the system on Low Cool? This will often times cause the AC to freeze up because the condenser fan and the evaporator fan are on the same motor. If you run the system on low cool, you are not getting enough air movement over your condenser to effectively warm up the freon and thus causing the system to freeze. Turn it to high and adjust the thermostat if it is too cold, this should help.
I had a problem with my coleman mach 3 AC, we were at an RV park up at lake shasta CA and the fan would stay on but the compressor would come on for a few seconds and then trip off. It was the motor overload relay on the compressor that was tripping. the RV park was old and apparently the wiring to the panelboard at the RV park was too small, when you are drawing a lot of current there was too much voltage drop across their line, to make up for this the motor tries to draw more current and heats up the motor overload and it trips off. I solved this problem by buying an autoformer from Camping World, it senses a voltage drop and automatically boosts the voltage.
I am now having a seperate problem, the compressor is either locked up or has too much back pressure and trips off the service breaker when trying to start. The only solution I can see with my current problem is to replace the entire unit.
This is a typical symptom of having an A/C system low on freon if it cycles on and off when first turned on or very soon afterward. All types of A/C units for home and auto have a low pressure cut-out switch that will disengage the compressor when the freon level drops low enough to cause damage to the compressor. The unit needs recharging with the proper amount of freon to correct the problem. If it's an automobile A/C system and the freon level is okay, it could be a faulty compressor clutch or coil.