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The cup thing allows thermal transfer to black thing which when gets hot trips switch adding resisters lowering charge current to trickle not to overcharge battery. Then red led lights, and is reset by pushing white slide towards bottom base. It is not glued it is pressure fit on bottom of black thermal switch and has a little thermal grease like heat sink compound. Should come apart if you pull hard enough maybe need to use pliers.
I had a similar problem. I found that the cable from the transformer to the iron had an open in it. There are two spots where this mainly happens. At the transformer connector, or and probably this is it, at the iron entrance, You can remove the heater on the iron and take a voltmeter and see if you have power there. I found on mine that there was an open. I removed my cable, cut off the end at the iron and re-installed it. It was not easy but I managed to get it repaired. This is a kinda trial and error thing, mostly cables fail at the strain reliefs, this is where there is the most play in the system, and the constant flexing eventually breaks a wire. There are a number of places to get replacement cables, etc. Here is the one I use www.
eaesales.com . Please let me know if this has helped.
The problem is very likely to be a burn-out heating element in your soldering iron: it will now be open-circuit and you can verify this by using a multimeter on the resistance measuring range. Hope it helps.
That is normal for a soldering gun especially if you are using acid core solder. I do a lot of soldering with rosin core & have to change the tip about every 6-8 months. Just get a couple of new tips. Rick
You have burned out residue on the tip. Clead it off with a damp cloth when the iron is hot. If this doesn't get it all, use steel wool. Immediately afterwards, get flux & solder onto the tip or it will get coated again.
Sorry, this iron will not do the job. Yes the temp is higher than the solder, but once you touch it to the work, the heat is gone in Aluminim as it conducts heat at a very high rate. You need more wattage AND the upper heat level. A flame powered tool might be more appropriate. Contact Weller on their web site for recomendation
Anti-Static Protection: If you're interested in soldering a lot of static-sensitive parts (e.g. CMOS chips or MOSFET transistors), more advanced and expensive soldering iron stations use static-dissipative
materials in their construction to ensure that static does not build up on the iron itself. You may see these listed as "ESD safe" (electrostatic discharge proof). The cheapest irons won't necessarily be ESD-safe but never the less will still probably perform perfectly well in most hobby or educational applications if you take the usual anti-static precautions when handling the components. The tip would need to be well earthed (grounded) in these circumstances.