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Furnace kicking on once per hr unless thermo turned off,then on

My furnace will only kick on about once an hour unless i turn the thermostat off and back on. also the water will not flow out unless i crimp the run-off hose thing. it will keep running if i take the door off the electronic air cleaner and let it have more air flow to it. also, i do not get near the force of air from my vents as i did last year. i havent had much luck on a real diagnosis. i was told i need bigger vents, but the way i see it is they havent changed since the furnace was installed in 1998, so that cant be the issue now. oh, the furnace is a Janitrol by Goodman. Any feedback would be appreciated.

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  • 3 more comments 
  • debmc03 Feb 27, 2009

    I have the EAC plates out as well as the metal mesh filter and only using a thin regular filter. Even with the EAC door off for more air flow into the furnace, I do not get any more force from the registers. Also, when the furnace is kicking off, the "flashing codes" are 4 and I think after a little swoosh noise it flashed 3 times just a couple times. Also, being female I must ask a dumb there any vent door things inside the ductwork that comes open to allow air to the ductwork?? Just wondered in case something like that could be stuck partly closed??

  • debmc03 Feb 28, 2009

    I had a few vents closed, and lately another one or two partly closed in hopes of getting more heat to areas that needed it more, but I have since opened those in hopes of better airflow. So would the dirty A-Coil cause the low air flow???

    Would this also be a symptom or a cause of the water gurgling in the moisture hoses? The water just runs down the hose when I bend it upwards which I guess helps the vacuum inside and releases the water.

    Thanks so much for all the advice!!!!

  • debmc03 Feb 28, 2009

    It is the water drain, however it is just a piece of flexable hose(poor rigged job when put in).Its the one that is in conjunction with the pipe that runs steam out the roof. It is about the same height as the motor. Unless I lift the hose to let the pressure off(or on,whichever) you can hear the water gurgling inside the furnace.

    Not sure about the length of running time now that all the vents are open.

    Just got another opinion from a house call (person with good reputation)that makes sense. The water hasnt drained off properly and over time that has caused water and acid to collect inside, which probably has caused the heat exchanger to get corroded and worse over time, which I guess has issues in the older Janitrol brands. There is a no cost program to get a new heat exchanger from the company. I can do that and pay to replace or get several $$$ off the cost of a new unit with minimal or no installation fee,and then I would have the warranty on the whole unit instead of putting a new exchanger in a 10 yr old furnace. I did mention the A-coil to the guy when he was here. He refered to a coil when elimanating things that could be wrong, but he didnt call it an A-coil.

  • debmc03 Feb 28, 2009

    The $1100 is about what I will end up paying I think. You mention the A-coil, but wont that be new on a new furnace?? If I get a much better deal on the exchange program I will go with Janitrol,which is now an Amana product, and supposedly better than before??? But otherwise I will keep in mind the brand you suggested. So I should expect to pay $1100 or so just for the furnace, or is that labor also??

    I really appreciate your imput.

  • debmc03 Feb 28, 2009

    I am in Southern Ohio.

    I do not have air conditioning with my current unit. Will use old window unit til it gives out,then get central. I will have what I need installed at the base of the furnace now so will be prepared for the addition when the time comes.

    I do not know the effeciency of the new furnace. The size,etc, hasnt been determined yet. Waiting to see about the exchange program, etc, before crunching numbers . The old one is 80 btus or whatever, and I have been told that is much more than my small house needs. I have about 1000 sq ft. and part of that is an unheated garage.

    Thanks so much for your insight, and your professional knowledge. It is hard to know if youre making the right decision sometimes. A gal on her own also has to watch to not be taken advantage of, although I am all into doing my own digging into the subject. I usually try to fix things myself ,except when it involves gas or electric I leave it to the pros.

    Thanks and have a great rest of the weekend.



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Your unit is starving for air. Either you have a dirty pre filter before the EAC (Electronic Air Cleaner) or the EAC needs to be cleaned. Or the A Coil is clogged up which needs cleaning. Have you ever cleaned the small pre filters ahead of the EAC? How about the EAC have you taken the EAC out and washed the plates off? I am just suggesting some feedback here so bear with me. ken

Posted on Feb 27, 2009

  • 2 more comments 
  • Ken Bledsoe Feb 28, 2009

    There is no such thing as a dumb question debmc03. there is not door things inside the ductwork that allows air to come in. But read below. You are very close in your thinking. about doors.

    Now there are baffles that do turn to shut down the air flow inside the duct work. I wouldn't think they would be shut cause you would have to turn them. You can tell if you have these baffles by looking at the duct work as it comes out of the top of the furnace and looking for a lever sticking out of the duct work. Most of the time we install those baffles close to the furnace as to keep all the air close to send it to another part of the house.

    Are all the returns in the house open and no furniture on top of them right? And nobody would put anything down inside them. I am really leaning towards a dirty A Coil and they are a pain to clean for someone that hasn't done it before.

    The 4 flashes means limit switch has opened meaning to much heat build up. hence your low pressure on the registers coming out.

    And you had a service man come out and he suggested bigger vents? he should have mentioned the A-Coil being dirty.

  • Ken Bledsoe Feb 28, 2009

    Dirty A Coil is just like a clogged air filter will not allow air to pass. I am not understanding the water issue you mention. On your furnace if you have a water drain line should be pvc line to a floor drain. Where is the hose coming from when you mention water hose. When you look at the unit tell me from the upper portion or in the middle or towards the bottom. You might have a 90+ efficiency furnace and then I would understand what you are referring to. Also tell me if it comes out of the unit as a pvc pipe.

    When you close off vents to your house that backs up the supply of hot air and will cause the unit to shut down too early in the cycle. Now that you have opened the other vents does it seem to run longer then it did? But the dirty a-coil will still cause a problem on air flow.

  • Ken Bledsoe Feb 28, 2009

    Thanks for getting back so fast deb. Sounds like the deal with getting a new unit is the way to go. If at all possible try to get something other then Janitrol brand. Now just between you and me who you don't know from Adam, they are a very cheap brand. Ask about Temp Star brand they are what I install and I have put in at least 100 and not one problem over the years. I keep up on most of the units as I really try to keep good customer repoor. And at the same time they replace the unit get the A-Coil cleaned. The cost of a furnace is about 900 bucks maybe 1100 on a 90+ unit now keep this to your self some people charge about double that to make more money and then charge minimal labor to make it seem like the person is getting a good deal... ken

  • Ken Bledsoe Feb 28, 2009

    The A Coil is part of the air conditioning system and would be extra. The heat exchanger has a warranty on most units of 20 years. I would think 1100 is the total of the difference between furnace and labor combined. Seems a little high I know when I put in a furnace only comes to only 750. Give or take. Can you tell me what efficiency the new furnace will be? They are rated at 80% 88% 90% 94% 95% And also how many BTU's is it going to be.

    A new heat exchanger would be around 200 but they don't make that type of heat exchanger any more so you get a new furnace. They are just charging you for the difference. Where do you live I am in Kansas. Glad I could help you even though you are getting a new furnace at least your A-Coil will be inspected and cleaned properly.



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