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Wiring a frigidare 30 " double oven

The manuel says to use double 40 amp breakers with 8 gauge wire. this will be good for the 8000 watts it will draw. but the wire comng out of the oven is only 12 guage for the red and black and the white neutral is 16 gauge. what gives. should i change the wire to 8 guage.

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I think the issue you are dealing with is the NEC. National Electric Code. Most callouts for conductors are in reference to your home wiring. Due to voltage drop and heat the NEC always errs on the side of safety. Most structure wiring is covered so you never want issues of heat in conductors. The wires on your oven are only several feet in length and I am sure are sized properly from the manufacturer for their intended purpose.

Posted on Feb 28, 2009

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If you're connected to a 240V source, a two-pole 40 amp circuit is required. If connected to a 208V source, a two pole 30 amp circuit is required.

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Rule of live by: Each unit must have its own breaker. Cooktop needs 30 amps and a double oven needs 40 amps. Never combine the unit as the amps flow if too high can cause the wires to melt. I hope this helps. Be safe!

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Hello Sbilko,

I understand that you are tring to find a breaker and wire size for your GE JKP28 Double Oven. As I look up the specs on your oven I find that both ovens are rated at 30 amps. This requires you to use two thirty amp breakers one for each oven. The industry standard for Oklahoma requires that you use at least #10/2 wire for a 30 amp breaker. However, in some places it states that you can use #12/2 although I would not recommend using #12 gauge wire.

My suggestion to you is two 30 amp breakers and #10/2 gauge wire, this should be what will take care of the circuits and keep the wire form heating up.

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How to explain this? your new drop in unit will require a 220v circuit capable of a specified amount of amps. Typically 40, 50 or 60. Should be noted in the manual and on the unit itself. If your original oven and cooktop were electric, then each one was probably hooked up to a 220v circuit. The problem is figuring out how many amps were supplied for each. The simplest way is the go to the panel and find the breaker for the old oven and cooktop and read the numbers (or amps) on the on/off switch. If either breaker has a number the same or greater then the drop in unit says it requires, then your all set. If the drop in unit says it requires 52amps and one of the breakers says 60 on it, your fine. If the drop in unit says it requires 44amps and the breakers are 30 or 40, then you got a problem. Usually a breaker is installed that is the maximum amps allowed for the size (thickness) of the wire connected to it. You CANNOT connected a 50a breaker to wire only rated for 40a. Note the size difference of wire connected to a 20a breaker with wire connected to 40a breaker. If the drop in unit requires more amps then the original units used, then a larger wire will need to be ran from the panel to the drop in unit (Not cheap). Now if the original oven used a 30a and the original cooktop used a 30a, then its possible ( 80% of electricians wouldn't do it because of liability problems) to use both wires together to create 60amps, but both wires (actually a total of 6 wires, 2-120v wires and 1 ground wire from each outlet) would need to be in the same outlet box for the drop in unit connection.. I could (and probably should) try to explain more, but I'de probably just confuse you more. GOOD LUCK!

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Breaker sizw


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208Y/120 Volt or 240/120 Volt, 60 hertz
electrical system. If you connect to aluminum
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Good Luck

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