The manuel says to use double 40 amp breakers with 8 gauge wire. this will be good for the 8000 watts it will draw. but the wire comng out of the oven is only 12 guage for the red and black and the white neutral is 16 gauge. what gives. should i change the wire to 8 guage.
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Re: wiring a frigidare 30 " double oven
I think the issue you are dealing with is the NEC. National Electric Code. Most callouts for conductors are in reference to your home wiring. Due to voltage drop and heat the NEC always errs on the side of safety. Most structure wiring is covered so you never want issues of heat in conductors. The wires on your oven are only several feet in length and I am sure are sized properly from the manufacturer for their intended purpose.
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For Electric Range - 220 - 240 volt, 60 hertz, properly grounded circuit with 40 amp breaker or fuse protection with #8 gauge wire. With a 50 amp breaker, # 6 gauge wire is required.
The owner's manual below mentions the wattage. (download the document, hit CTRL-F on your keyboard, type in wattage.) You might contact the manufacturer or for that matter the electric company servicing you.
Rule of live by: Each unit must have its own breaker. Cooktop needs 30 amps and a double oven needs 40 amps. Never combine the unit as the amps flow if too high can cause the wires to melt. I hope this helps. Be safe!
I understand that you are tring to find a breaker and wire size for your GE JKP28 Double Oven. As I look up the specs on your oven I find that both ovens are rated at 30 amps. This requires you to use two thirty amp breakers one for each oven. The industry standard for Oklahoma requires that you use at least #10/2 wire for a 30 amp breaker. However, in some places it states that you can use #12/2 although I would not recommend using #12 gauge wire.
My suggestion to you is two 30 amp breakers and #10/2 gauge wire, this should be what will take care of the circuits and keep the wire form heating up.
use 3 -- 6 gauge copper wires, you could get by with 2--6 gauge wires for the two hot phases and 1--8 gauge for the neutral connection,but with that long a run use all 6 gauge so you don't experience any voltage drop,also in your community you may need to check the local codes on grounding and need to add a separate grounding wire,which you can use an 8 gauge for this wire connection, if you use aluminum wire(which I highly DO NOT reccomend) you will need to get one gauge larger as in 3--4 gauge aluminum to carry the same current as copper wire
How to explain this? your new drop in unit will require a 220v circuit capable of a specified amount of amps. Typically 40, 50 or 60. Should be noted in the manual and on the unit itself. If your original oven and cooktop were electric, then each one was probably hooked up to a 220v circuit. The problem is figuring out how many amps were supplied for each. The simplest way is the go to the panel and find the breaker for the old oven and cooktop and read the numbers (or amps) on the on/off switch. If either breaker has a number the same or greater then the drop in unit says it requires, then your all set. If the drop in unit says it requires 52amps and one of the breakers says 60 on it, your fine. If the drop in unit says it requires 44amps and the breakers are 30 or 40, then you got a problem. Usually a breaker is installed that is the maximum amps allowed for the size (thickness) of the wire connected to it. You CANNOT connected a 50a breaker to wire only rated for 40a. Note the size difference of wire connected to a 20a breaker with wire connected to 40a breaker. If the drop in unit requires more amps then the original units used, then a larger wire will need to be ran from the panel to the drop in unit (Not cheap). Now if the original oven used a 30a and the original cooktop used a 30a, then its possible ( 80% of electricians wouldn't do it because of liability problems) to use both wires together to create 60amps, but both wires (actually a total of 6 wires, 2-120v wires and 1 ground wire from each outlet) would need to be in the same outlet box for the drop in unit connection.. I could (and probably should) try to explain more, but I'de probably just confuse you more. GOOD LUCK!
The blue wire goes to a seperate 15 Amp circuit breaker or fuse.
This breaker should be powered by the L1 (black) supply feed in the breaker box. The circuit supplies power to the display and control buttons. The red and black wires go to a double ganged 20 Amp breaker. Check inside the oven back cover for a wiring diagram.
In most cases look on the model number tag, the one with the serial number on it and in most cases it will tell you what amperage breaker you should run it off of. It could be a 30 amp 40 amp or 50 amp 220 breaker.
You must use a three-wire, single-phase A.C.
208Y/120 Volt or 240/120 Volt, 60 hertz
electrical system. If you connect to aluminum
wiring, properly installed connectors approved
for use with aluminum wiring must be used.