Dryer makes like small melted black spots on metal buttons
First it would not stop running on the sensor settting. Yesterday on th advice of a friend I looked for a coin or paper clip that could cause the problem and I found that inside the front of the dryer I believe the two strips are the heat sensors that they are kind of blackened and smoked. The dryer works but now I am afraid to use it. Also when my husband touched the sensors he got shocked. Please help.
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Do you have a moisture sensor in the dryer? If the lint filter is on the top: the sensor would be 2 metal strips on a black raised piece on the back wall of the dryer. If the lint filter is in the front, chances are you have, but they would be directly behind the filter housing. They are long metal strips. You can check there by sticking your head in (not kidding) and looking forward. If you use fabric softener dryer sheets, these can sometimes leave a gummy residue on the sensor which blocks any message telling the dryer the load is wet and it could shut down or it could run extra long. If the above applies, clean the sensors with an alcohol prep pad (the little things they rub your arm with before taking blood or giving a shot at the doctor's office)-WARNING: DO NOT TAKE AN OPEN BOTTLE OF ALCOHOL to the dryer area. Did you check to ensure the vent is cleared? Always good to make sure your venting is cleared of any lint and debris at least once a year.
this could be operator error please hear me out...... when wash bath towels you also put in wash cloths and hand towels .... there is a sensor in dryer drum shroud in front of lint filter to metal silver strips when the clothes are tumbling they sweep across this sensor telling the dryer heat to stay on and continue to dry.... if th small wash cloth sweeps it first before the bath towel then u get the same results as your describing just like if you were waqshing colors load like cotton tshirt and blue jeans the tshirt is going to dry way faster than blue jeans so if the tshirt sweeps that sensor first the dryer going to shut off we have to sort our clothes to thickness ans same size articles just try it once i bet your clothes are dry when cycle completes
Things that could stop a gas dryer from heating: - glow bar igniter, thermal fuse , coils on the gas valve, gas valve, thermostats, motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, sensor. Problem - Gas flame comes on first few times then quits and igniter keeps cycling on and off but never lets the gas go. Answer ( most common ) - Replace the coils on the Gas Valve.
Problem - No flame, no igniter glowing at all, Answer ( most common ) - Inspect igniter for small burnt spot on dark gray or black part of igniter or check for 110 volts to igniter when dryer should be calling for heat. Thanks. Keep updated for
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all refrigerators use a timer circuit to temporarily turn on heating coils in your freezer side. It also has a round sensor hooked to the coils that senses the internal temp so it does not over heat. It sound like this sensor is bad or your timer is at fault. This sensor is located in the freezor box you have to remove the inside metal/plastic back to get at it you will see wires they will run to a black tube or clear glass tube that is the heating element the sensor is on one of the wires going to the heater and it will be clipped onto a freon line of the condenser close to the heater. You can test it by putting it in a glass of ice and allowing the ice to melt to make water and the unit can be tested with an ohm meter. It should show low ohms close to zero very close and when heated up just run it under your faucet it should show hi ohms this is just an on off switch that uses temp to turn on and off.
most likey the igniter is bad. Check it for resistance. Should have about 50 to 60 ohms. They will not have any if broken. 0 is shorted together and infinity or no movement on meter is open. They usually open (melt apart )
On auto dry cycles, the cycle is controlled by moisture sensing bars located on either the rear or front bulkhead, ( visible inside dryer ) if the moisture sensor bars are shorted together (normally by wet clothing) the dryer will continue to run. If the dryer continues to run when the clothes are plenty dry, check and see if there is anything stuck between the sensor bars, (sometimes a metal sequin will cause this) or see if they are damaged. If not, you may have a problem with a timer contact, if the timer advances and stops moving at the same spot each time, I would suspect the timer. If this is an EvenHeat dryer, examine the control board located to the right of the timer in the control panel, for any burned components. Hope this helps.
MAKE SURE THAT POWER IS OFF AND PLUG IS UNPLAGED AT WALL
On the back of the dryer there is a white metal cover in the centre with two philips screws. Once removed you will see metal box which has elements like a toaster built inside it.
You will see two sensors sticking out of top of metal box. The left one is the sensor for safety cut out in event of the dryer sensor on the right stopping working and letting the dryer overheat.
If you disconnect the left sensor 2 crimps and put multimeter on the left sensor two pins and if the meter beeps on continuety the sensor is ok. but if no beep the sensor is bad.
If sensor bad you can tempary bypass the sensor by joining the two cables together and try running dryer on a program and if heats up you know that you need to get new sensor.
WARNING! IF YOU LEAVE THE LEFT SAFETY SENSOR BYPASSED IF THE RIGHT HAND SIDE SENSOR MALFUNCTIONS THE TEMPERATURE WILL RISE AND CAUSE SERIOUS DAMAGE OR FIRE. THE PURPOSE OF THE RIGHT HAND SENSOR IS WHEN THE DRYER HEATS UP TO HEAT IT CUTS OUT AND WHEN DROPS DOWN IT HEATS UP AGAIN SAME AS AN OVEN.
You can maybe buy sensor from a meile dealer or RS COMPONENTS have the same sensor for £3.35 each.
NOTE: I ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILY FOR DAMAGE OR INJURY IN MY ADVICE FOR REPAIR OF DRYER.