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My problem is how to remove the petrol chain saw drive sprocket from the drive shaft

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There are a couple different ways. They make a special plug that goes into the cylinder to stop the rotation so you can loosen the sprocket or I have used an impact wrench to remove the nut. If you give me the brand and model I will look and see what I can do more to help you

Posted on Feb 26, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Remove motar from whisper flo pump


Replacing your pool pump motor
Gather the following items.
Phillips and flat head screwdrivers
Circuit tester
Dry towel
Step One
First, make sure that the power to the pump is turned OFF. This means turning off the breaker at the panel box and not just the switch at the pump.
Step Two - Removing the motor assembly
Remove the four hex head bolts which hold the motor assembly to the pump/strainer housing (These bolts may not be visible).
Slide the motor assembly out of the pump/strainer housing, exposing the diffuser. Pull the diffuser of of the seal plate, exposing the impeller. (The diffuser may remain in the pump/strainer housing. To remove, pull it straight out of the strainer housing.)
There will be a gasket or O-ring sealing between the motor mounting bracket and the strainer housing. Inspect this thoroughly and replace if necessary. An economical option would be to purchase a Go-Kit which includes the pump shaft seal and all necessary o-rings, gaskets and lubricant for your pump.
Step Three
Now, you can lift up the motor with bracket attached to get to the wiring more easily. There may be a bare copper ground wire attached to the outside of the motor that you will need to disconnect. Remove the cover plate on the back of the motor to get access to the wiring. You should have one green wire that is the ground wire and two other wires that are your leads. The lead wires should be black and white but could be any other color except green. Disconnect these wires (they may be attached to a screw, held down by a nut, or clipped on with a terminal clip).
Step Four
Next, you will need to disconnect the conduit (sleeve covering wires between motor and switch or junction box). This usually means unscrewing the compression nut that is screwed on the adaptor which is screwed to the motor. After unscrewing the conduit compression nut, you can pull out the wires from the motor. If you wish to reuse the adaptor, unscrew it from the motor.
Step Five
Now you must remove the impeller from the motor. Remove the volute covering the impeller if it is there. (Some are screwed on). You will need to go to the opposite end of the motor and pop off the plate covering the shaft. The shaft will either have a slot in it for a screw driver or is flattened to allow you to put an open end box wrench on it. This will allow you to unscrew the impeller. You will unscrew in the direction that is opposite to the direction that the veins point at the outside of the impeller. This is the same direction that the motor will rotate the impeller. This may look backwards but the water comes into the center of the impeller and rolls off the veins away from the impeller by centrifugal force. As you take the impeller off, be sure to note how the pump seal is positioned. We highly recommend replacing the pump seal with the purchase of a Go-Kit when replacing the motor.
Step Six
Now you can see the bolts that hold the motor mounting bracket to the motor. Unbolt these, separating the motor mounting bracket from the motor. You are ready to reverse the process to install the new motor.
Step Seven
Important Notes on Reassembly: DO NOT touch the ceramic faces of the seal; This may cause the seal to burn up and leak. Be sure to tighten the impeller completely. Be sure to wire the new motor for 110V or 220V depending on what you have. This may be a simple switch in the motor or you may need to use the wiring diagram on the motor to set for the proper voltage. (Black tracer means the white wire with a black line corkscrewing around it.) Be sure to put the volute back on, aligning properly. Be sure to reconnect the bare copper ground wire to the ground lug on the new motor. When tightening bolts, alternate tightening a few turns at a time to seat evenly or the pump may leak. Fill the strainer housing with water before starting the motor to prime system and prevent damage to seal and impeller.
More Helpful information on how to replace a pool motor
Shaft Seal installation
Clean and lubricate the impeller hub shaft and pump housing seal recess with a dilute solution of non-granulated liquid-type soap
Gently wipe the black, polished surface of the spring seal assembly with a clean, soft cotton cloth. Press the spring seal assembly onto the impeller hub with black polished surface facing away from impeller.
Gently wipe the polished face of the ceramic seat with a soft cotton cloth. Lubricate the O-ring on the ceramic seat and press it firmly and evenly into the recess of the seal plate with polished side facing out.
Place the seal plate onto the motor mounting bracket aligning the positioning lug and guide.
Replacing the impeller and diffuser
Slide the motor assembly, with the diffuser in place, into pump/strainer housing, being careful not to dislodge the diffuser.
Fasten assembly to housing using the four bolts. (Be sure housing gasket is in place.) Tighten alternately and evenly

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1 Answer

How do you remove the clutch cover on a Husqvarna 240e?


With a specialty clutch tool, However you can remove most chainsaw clutches using a hammer and flat head screw driver and give it a few solid taps in counterclockwise rotation (it is reverse thread).

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1 Answer

I can start my barracuda but it won't run at more than idle


Timing problems, bad or warn cam shaft lobes, fuel pump going bad, no pressure. Worn corroded rubber gas tank lines, from the tank to the hard lines, just forward of the gas tank, under the car. Inspect for gas leaks.

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1 Answer

Talon electric chainsaw has no power, changed the fuse etc...any ideas??


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Jan 24, 2015 | Garden

1 Answer

Hi we have a Massey Ferguson Dyna 4 5465 and it was working this morning and then it died we started it up and it ran for about 1/2 a minute when we try starting it now we can hear the fuel pump runs for...


am i to assume its a diesel ,if so sounds like its out of fuel but i could be wrong as its been many years since i have worked on tractors and all the fancy electronic gizmo on modern vehicles can confuse me.Now firstly check the key as no doubt as its a modern one it has a immobilisor and if the head of key loses its chip inside the key head it will never start unlike the old ones that would run on paraffin diesel or petrol ,the later ones were diesel only but again providing they had fuel and oil with the rad topped up they ran 24/7 ,thats a point check the oil level if its low it may stop the engine from starting

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1 Answer

I have a newholland tm 130 that loses power and I think it is fuel related I have checked the electronic pump and that seems to have a good output any ideas


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