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When you go into the split screen, and you don't want to be there, just click the little arrow in the lower right hand corner (the arrow pointing down and to the right). This will reduce the bottom map portion into a small overview box in the lower right portion of the screen. It only takes a second to get out of the split screen that way. To get back into split screen, click the arrow in the upper left corner of the overview box (the arrow pointing up and to the right).
The failure with your LCD is with a defective T-Con also called LCD controller board but is some cases it could also be a defective screen. The cheaper way for the time being would be to replace the T-Con board and hopefully that should fix it. If after replacing the T-Con board the LCD still fails then the screen is way to expensive to replace, the cost of a new screen would cost the same as buiyng another LCD or more.
Check this link to find the T-con board.
This board is located in the upper middle part of the LCD cover with a metal shield.
Let me know if you need further assistance.
Mine was doing that then it quit even turning on so I replaced the 4 Capacitors today on the power supply board that had bulged up on the top 3 had split open they where on the top right corner of the board where the ribbon jumps from the power board to the main board with ones from Jameco Part Number 606521 they worked perfect but make sure you put them in with the correct polarity easy to do just keep an eye on it. Very simple repair and took me about 30 min to take itapart solder on the new ones and put it back together all for under $10.
It's not really a problem if the lens cover isnt there. The following actually shows how to repair a broken lens cover. But have a feeling yours may be damaged beyond repair, so the next option is removal of the shutters. Be careful that you don't get any of the rubbing alcohol that's spoken of in the following procedures on the lens itself.
I had the same problem with my 4 yr old Sony KDF60WF655 rear projection set, and I was fortunate to buy a 4 year extended warranty - because it was the $1300. (not incl labor), Optic Block that was replaced to fix the problem. That part contains all new LCDs, & Lens & some electronics. I had already got a new bulb (under warranty) a few weeks earlier, that I had not yet installed so the service guy did replace that as well. (This happened 3 weeks before my warranty ended)
He told me that he replaces hundreds of Sony Optic Blocks every year and that many Sony Rear Projection sets have FACTORY extended warranties because of some known problems with the blue LCD panels.
The tech checked my Service Codes & showed me the TV had been running for 10051 hours in about 4 years - on the Original bulb! He was quite surprised because he said the bulbs usually last about 5000 - 7000 hours. He also said it's good to replace them BEFORE they go bad, because they can sometimes burn out the amplifier that powers the bulb, (which is a seperate piece that attaches to the outside of the Optic Block). My TV is like new now.
This appears to be more common than Samsung lets people know. There isobviously a manufacturing defect. Same thing happened to my tv and it was only 4 months old. Samsung refuses to honor their warranty claiming it's physical damage...no kiding...there was a pop like a small firecracker going off inside the TV and the screen broke. You think think with this kind of catostrophic failure there would be physical damage? We're going after Samsung (BBB, FTC, small claims, etc.), if we can get enough people maybe go class-action.