I HAVE A JENN-AIR SVE 47100 IT STARTED TO PRE-HEAT AND STOPPED AT 140 DEGREES NOW IT WONT GO OVER 100 DEGREES BROIL OR BAKE ELEMENTS NEITHER IS GETTING HOT CHECKED HI LIMIT IT'S OK NO TROUBLE CODES JUST NO HEAT

whenever you set an oven it always starts at 100,if that's an electric oven most likely the bake element is bad and the broil element is just working and heating up the oven,when you set the oven to bake both the broil and bake elements get hot.if it's gas most likely a bad ignitor,send the model number if you write back,also if that's an electric oven make sure you flip the breaker so there's no power going to the oven before you try to remove the element,i see people try to remove the element with the power still on and when they pull out the element the wires touch the metal and bang they short out the clock assy.kill the power,remove the two screws that hold the element in place or if this isn't a wall oven slide out the oven,unplug it,remove the back wall and with a meter read out the element,remove at least one of the wires first and then check it,very simple set your meter to 20k,ohms touch the leads to the element where the wires connect to it,if you see a 1 the element is bad or open,if you see anything else but 1 the element is good or closed,hope this helps you out

is this 400c or 400f

the oven sensor could be bad,its a small rod inside the oven cavity near the top,or you could have a bake element with a "hot-spot" in it that can no longer pass enough current to properly heat the oven to the correct temperature setting(most elements with a hot spot will show a discolored area on the element where its been overly hot)this is the "hot-spot" it will soon break apart there

HI,
You should have 120 to the element when not in bake mode, while in bake mode you should have 220 - 240 volt. Sounds like you lost a relay to send the additional power to the element, or you have a High Limit thermostat which could be open. This is a safety device to protect the unit from over heating, this only goes if temperatures increase higher the safety levels, normally set about 200 degrees or so along the air flow channels. I would trace from the elements to the clock and find the missing source of current.
I hope this helps
Be safe with electricity......

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gere_bf68e6055dd61249

If broil and bake do not work on your bottom oven, it is probably your lower thermistor or control board. If the bake works but broil doesn't or broil works and bake doesn't, it is very likely your heating element. With an ohmmeter, the heating elements should be about 40 ohms. Much higher or lower signals a problem. If you suspect the control board is the problem, they can be repaired quickly and reliably at www.fixyourboard.com

There's a few things that can cause this.

1. Check to see if the both that Bake and Broil elements (burners) are heating up. Check the Broil element in Broil mode.

- during pre-heat the Broil element gets cycled on and off for short time durations to speed up the heating. If the Bake element is not working, then the oven will heat, but very slowly and never reach high temperature.

2. If the elements are both working, then it's possible that you have a bad temperature sensor.

- this is a temperature dependent resistance device that should measure 1080 ohms at 70 deg F (room temp).

3. If #1 and #2 are ok, then the problem is with your oven clock/control unit. We rebuild these at fixyourboard.com.

If you live in Pasadena, CA and need appliance repair service call Max Global Appliance Repair at (626) 460-0903 or visit our website Appliance Repair Pasadena CA 626 460 0903 Pasadena CA

does the bake element come on at all?
if so, try the oven out. do a bake @ 350 allow it to pre-heat, and see if once the pre-heat is comlete, id the broil shuts off.
on many ovens at the beginning of the cycle during pre-heat both bake and broil elements are powered.

other than that it may be a control board, or a burnt and crossed wire in the harness.

Some times a company changes vendors for the controls and connections change location. But does the wiring diagram indicate a relay board in the back of range. It could be damaged form the element short

Test the swtich w/ multi tester /connect tester as a jumper to the switch dettach one line on and off switch /if does not reponse / replace the switch.