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Re: amana dlw330 washer belt burned & broke again after I...
Well if hte washer belt is "burning off"" that tells me the motor is trying to spin at full speed buthte transmision pulley is holding it back, can be a few issues, either the brake is notreleasing correctly or, the transmission is locking up .
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If the design of this unit is the water pump is in the front directly below the motor, you have to install one of the pump plastic legs between the belt. when installing new belt. There are torex screws holding the pump onto the motor. This is assuming your belt burnt off or broke and you are replacing the belt. The small idler pulley can be worked on by running the belt on the big pulley when reinstalling the motor Try not to stretch the spring for the idler pulley, hope this helps
YES YOU ARE. THIS BELT WENT THROUGH NUMEROUS REVISIONS. THIS IS THE MOST COMMON REPAIR. ALSO SOMETIMES VERY RARE THERE COULD BE A WATER LEAK AND GOT THE BELT WET AND THEN THE MOTOR PULLEY SMOKED IT UP.
Had the same problem on a machine I worked on. Changed the belt... was burnt and broken. Second time I replaced the belt, I ran it through all of the cycles and listened to it on SPIN cycle.. Although it's spinning.. it's making an extremely LOUD noise... It's the Spin bearing that is gone out. When a load is put in, and in spin cycle, the bearing is oveloaded..(being dry).. and putting extreme pressure on the motor and belt. When the drum reaches a point where the bearing just won't spin, the belt stops, and spins on the motor pulley, wearing it through.. (And smoking a great deal).. until it breaks.. again. I believe the top "Spin bearing" is about 75.00 or so.. and a BEAR to replace. Hope this helps
I have a similar amana top load washer and just changed the belt. Here are the steps I used to change the belt:
1) Unplug the washer
2) Slide the washer away from the wall about 12"
3) Remove two screws from the bottom of the front panel, slide the front panel down (there are 2 metal tabs that slide into slots on the top of the front panel - observe how they slide into/out of the slots). Set the panel aside.
4) Remove the electrical connector (upper left of motor). Press down on the top of the plastic connector - this will undo the catch hook holding the connection in place). Observe how the belt is routed before proceeding.
5) Remove 4 bolts holding the motor in place. You can remove the motor - even with the water pump and hoses in place - they will flex.
6) Remove the water pump from the motor. There are 3 torx - head screws to remove. Note: You will need a star shaped (torx) head driver (Looks like a screwdriver but with a "star" head on it. The one I used measured just under 3/16 in diameter.
7) carefully remove the water pump. - remove the old belt from main pulley under washer drum and also from the water pump. Insert the new belt - be sure to put the tension pulley on the outside of the belt.
8) Reinstall the water pump to the motor. Reinstall the motor. Route the belt correctly in the water pump body area first - them slide the belt around the left side of the main drum pulley - rotate the pulley counter-clockwise and the pulley will tug the belt onto the pulley. Once in place - check bolts and belt - then reattach the electrical connector (remember to press the plastic lever on top of the plastic connector before sliding it in place). Reattach front panel - slide the top of the panel onto the metal tabs - then attach screws at the bottom.
My Maytag Performa was making the loud squealing noise. I changed out the water pump/bearing, took care of the problem.
Putting a new belt on just help burn up the bearing (they needed replacing) and probably ruined the new belt. Probably seized the water pump bearing and the belt jumped and broke the motor pully. A washing machine motor is very strong, when that h20 pump bearing seized (or possibly some bearings jamed up) the motor kept on turning that belt and the plastic pully gave in. You'll need to replace that also. If the h20 pumb bearing is turning freely, likely the bearings jammed up but or now loose. That bearing should be tight, no slack or play in it. You can probably wobble the pully on it all around while turning it. The slightest slack is too much.
No. The motor and pump assembly need to come off. There is 4 1/2 inch bolts that hold this assembly to the main mechanism. 2 on top and 2 on bottom. Work belt off bottom pulley on transmission and then remove these bolts. Turn motor over and remove 3 torx screws holding pump to motor. Install new belt then reinstall pump with 3 screws. Reinstall assemblt to mech. Pu top 2 screws in first then bottom 2. Be sure belt goes on left side of black plastic idler pulley. Work belt around transmission pulley. You can press on opposite end of idler pulley arm to loosen belt tension. Make sure belt is on all pulleys before testing.