I have a 12" Craftsman band saw and I am having a problem with a drifting cut when trying to use a rip fence. The cut begins to drift and after 10-12 inches the blade will bind. I am using the biggest blade allowed (1/2 inch)and havethe tension maxed. I have adjusted the guides as tight as allowable. Any solutions?
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First question: What are you cutting? Are you cutting wood? If you're using fence, I need you to make adjustments on it . The nature of the band saw is to drift either left or right being parallel with the band saw fence. Is the blade tension too tight or insufficient? Check your manual for correct tension or you can just see in the tension gauge on your saw. Please this blog on how to check the correct blade tension . What is your feed and speed rate? Make sure the you're not feeding the wood too slow or too fast. Are you using new blade? Your blade is may be dull or low quality. I purchased my blades on www.sawblade.com . Their Haltbar 201 Series works great on general wood cutting. Last question, have you taken up time to tune up your saw? See this blog for your reference.
I am not familar with the Coronet saw and there are alot of reasons your saw may not be cutting true.
- Mark a straight line appx. 1" from the edge on a 2 foot board, using the fence cut the board. Does it stay on the line? if not this is called "Drift"
-Most fences on band saws have a drift adjustment. To adjust mark a board the same as before but this time don't use the fence and saw it down the line about half way, turn off saw with the board in the saw, now slide the fence next to the board. you will see a gap on one end or the other adjust fence to the board(i.e. drift adjustment) now you saw will cut true.
NOTE- on saws that don't have this adjustment you may have to shim the fence to fit.
-If you go to You Tube and look up band saw set up they will cover this in detail.
Hello, I think that the problem you are having is called "drift" . each blade will cut different than the last. The way I was taught to cure this goes as follows.
-take fence off off table(or just move over)
-get a good square piece of material appx. 1x3 and mark a straight line about 1/2" from edge the full length of the board.
-with out the fence cut the board along the line appx. 1/2 the length.
-shut off saw WITH board in it.
-use a angle finder along the edge of the board, set angle finder
-remove board and put the fence back on.
-now slide the angle finder up to the fence, you should see that the angle is different than the fence (this is the DRIFT ), adjust the fence to the angle finder( I know that the smaller saws usalley don't have this adjustment ) you will have to find a way i.e. shim etc.
This is a very common problem but once you get the idea it is a easy fix
Remember: A guy taught me and I taught you, pass it along thats what we do.LOL
Hope it helped.
The Shop Dog
Band saws pull to one side on straight cuts, it's a function of the blade torque. My 14" saw pulls to the right. There's nothing you can do to stop this, you have to be aware of it so you account for it on free cuts and know to put your fence on that side so the wood pulls into the fence instead of away from it. Squaring the blade to the table is easier. Do not go by the tilt angle guide. First make absoutely sure all of your blade guides and bearings are properly alligned so they aren't pushing the blade out of line. Use a square to get it close then: using a 4" x 4" block of wood, make a light cut in the wood only deep enough to mark the wood from top to bottom. Turn the block over 180 and try to make a cut in the previous cut mark. If the cuts line up you're there. If you get a V or X you have to make adjustments to the table making sure you tighten the trunion locks tight. I had one of these, it's not a high end saw so don't expect a lot from it.