Try a single paper hole punch or a leather punch might be easier to use but that will also depend on the size of hole you need
if i is just a case of not being able to sqeeze with your hands try a using a rubb
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remove spark plug and spray penetrating oil down hole let sit for a day, take small hand held propane torch and heat up outside cylinder wall not to hot. take small punch and insert thru spark plug hole gently tap with hammer while trying to start , this should free piston. do compression test right away to make sure no holes in piston. mine did this after a couple of years sitting.
When you have the starter top removed, you must wind the spring BEFORE installing the rope. Wind the pulley until it is at maximum tension, then unwind it until the hole in the pulley lines up with the eyelet on the starter top. Now, put the rope thru the eyelet and into the pulley hole. It is helpful to have somebody holding the tension on the pulley, or you can insert a small tool thru the vent holes to hold the pulley in place. Use a figure 8 knot on the rope. Go ahead and tie the handle onto the other end of the rope, and release the pulley tension. It should now recoil into the starter housing. Test pull the rope several times to make sure it is moving freely. Reinstall the starter housing onto the engine and retest.
Check the IPL for your saw to see if any special tools are needed.
There are metal piston stops available, when square (almost never) with the piston top these work well, if not square they have been known to punch through the piston. I suggest a length of starter cord or nylon rope be used instead of the piston stop (retain 6" ± so you can remove it). Make sure the piston is near the top of the cylinder before feeding the cord or it can fall through the exhaust port and damage the piston as it rises.
Everyone I’ve ever removed had a left handed thread (tighten it to loosen it). Let us know how it worked for you. GL
An eyelet is a small hole with a metal ring-like you put shoelaces through or those on a belt. On a sewing machine it would be the same genally in shape-a small hole with stitches around the edge to suit the same purpose-threading a ribbon through or suchlike.
I had the same problem with the shifter cable braking.They were very expensive to replace.My cable tube(the outer part with the adjustable nuts) was still good.The cable itself was broken.I went to the nieghborhood hardware store and bought a length of cable of the correct size.I then used an electrical eyelet at each end (the eyelet has place to slide wire into it then it get crimped to hold the wire,also it has a hole in it so a screw or bolt can go through to hold it in place.I connected an eyelet to one end of cable,2nd I fed the cable through the tube,3rd, I put a screw through the hole were the cable connect to the shift linkage(@ trans),4th placed the eyelet on the screw 5th then placed the nut on the screw .At end of cable where shift nob is I placed an eyelet where the cable originally went,Pulled the new cable through taking out ALL the slack,Marked cable then crimped it,placed nut on screw.It works like new.MAKE SURE THE LINKAGE and SHIFT NOB ARE IN NUTURAL POSITION
Judging by your previous questions,I think this is the info you need.
Setting cam timing with stock cams is relatively easy using the punch mark on the cam gears For stock timing, the punch marks at 9 O'clock on the exhaust cam and at 3 O'clock on the intake cam should align with the top of the head. If stock timing is altered the exhaust cam punch mark will either be one tooth above or one tooth below the top of the head.
Take out tensioner.
Remove both plugs from shifter side of crankcase, the center plug to turn, the 11:00 plug to locate the 'I' (not the H) in.
Use a ratchet on end of crankshaft (through center plug) and zip tie ratchet to footpeg with the I lined up in the timing plug hole.
With the intake cam (rear one) pointing straight back, align the punch mark on the backside of the intake cam sprocket with the top of the head. Since the slack in the timing chain is in the back, if it doesn't align exactly right at the top of the head, err slightly high. Zip tie chain to intake sprocket.
Remove exhaust cam, count 12 links (where sprocket teeth will go) from the punch mark on the top of the intake cam and mark that position on the chain with something noticeable (use a Sharpie). Hold the exhaust cam close the to intake cam with the exhaust cams pointing horizontally to the front of the bike. With the exhaust cam in this position, there will be a punch mark at the top. Put the tooth above this punch mark in the chain link you marked that was 12 or 13 over. Zip-tie the chain to the exhaust cam.
Reseat exhaust cam. The punch mark on the left side of the exhaust sprocket will align with the top of the head. It will be one link high. Go back and check that the I is still centered in the timing plug hole
the intake cams point back
the exhaust cams point frontward
the rear punch mark on the intake is aligned or slight high with the top of the head
the front punch mark of the exhaust sprocket is aligned with the top of the head
Bolt and torque exhaust cam, torque intake if you've had it off.
Install chain tensioner (wind it up, hold the screwdriver with two hands, use the third hand to put hold tensioner in place, and fourth hand to bolt it up, then release screwdriver and put end bolt in it.
Remove zip ties on intake sprocket, exhaust sprocket, and ratchet holding TDC. Remove ratchet and replace both plugs.
Put on valve cover and two hoses, reinstall tank and seat and go riding.
There are two phillips screws in the bottom. Once they are removed, the top and bottom of the case are held together with clips molded into the case. Take a wide flat screwdriver and place it in the seam and gently pry it apart. Might want to start on the back in case you ****** up the plastic.
There are two sizes of metal........use one of each to create the eyelet.
Thread the longer one over the stalk shaped side, and the shorter one on the other side........if the fabric is lightweight, the clamping motion should also cut the hole as it engages to create the eyelet...if it is too thick, you will need a hole punch to clear the way first.
The action is for the longer shaft to pass through the fabric, then the inside edge of the smaller one, then the edges are bent and rolled but the flanged die to finish and secure......try a few samples on scrap first.