How to use a eyelet hole punch.

I managed to find a picture of one. Are the Punching Rod Cutters secured by a set screw for adjusting up and down or for sharpening? It appears to be well made and able to be maintained.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/295097749722

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should be a small screw that will tighten the holder itself.

remove spark plug and spray penetrating oil down hole let sit for a day, take small hand held propane torch and heat up outside cylinder wall not to hot. take small punch and insert thru spark plug hole gently tap with hammer while trying to start , this should free piston. do compression test right away to make sure no holes in piston. mine did this after a couple of years sitting.

When you have the starter top removed, you must wind the spring BEFORE installing the rope. Wind the pulley until it is at maximum tension, then unwind it until the hole in the pulley lines up with the eyelet on the starter top. Now, put the rope thru the eyelet and into the pulley hole. It is helpful to have somebody holding the tension on the pulley, or you can insert a small tool thru the vent holes to hold the pulley in place. Use a figure 8 knot on the rope. Go ahead and tie the handle onto the other end of the rope, and release the pulley tension. It should now recoil into the starter housing. Test pull the rope several times to make sure it is moving freely. Reinstall the starter housing onto the engine and retest.
Good luck!

An eyelet is a small hole with a metal ring-like you put shoelaces through or those on a belt. On a sewing machine it would be the same genally in shape-a small hole with stitches around the edge to suit the same purpose-threading a ribbon through or suchlike.

You need a leather hole punch. It's much like a paper hole punch, but with a different cutter. You can find them at craft stores.

I had the same problem with the shifter cable braking.They were very expensive to replace.My cable tube(the outer part with the adjustable nuts) was still good.The cable itself was broken.I went to the nieghborhood hardware store and bought a length of cable of the correct size.I then used an electrical eyelet at each end (the eyelet has place to slide wire into it then it get crimped to hold the wire,also it has a hole in it so a screw or bolt can go through to hold it in place.I connected an eyelet to one end of cable,2nd I fed the cable through the tube,3rd, I put a screw through the hole were the cable connect to the shift linkage(@ trans),4th placed the eyelet on the screw 5th then placed the nut on the screw .At end of cable where shift nob is I placed an eyelet where the cable originally went,Pulled the new cable through taking out ALL the slack,Marked cable then crimped it,placed nut on screw.It works like new.MAKE SURE THE LINKAGE and SHIFT NOB ARE IN NUTURAL POSITION

Judging by your previous questions,I think this is the info you need.
Setting cam timing with stock cams is relatively easy using the punch mark on the cam gears For stock timing, the punch marks at 9 O'clock on the exhaust cam and at 3 O'clock on the intake cam should align with the top of the head. If stock timing is altered the exhaust cam punch mark will either be one tooth above or one tooth below the top of the head.

1. Take out tensioner.
   
2. Remove both plugs from shifter side of crankcase, the center plug to turn, the 11:00 plug to locate the 'I' (not the H) in.
   
3. Use a ratchet on end of crankshaft (through center plug) and zip tie ratchet to footpeg with the I lined up in the timing plug hole.
   
4. With the intake cam (rear one) pointing straight back, align the punch mark on the backside of the intake cam sprocket with the top of the head. Since the slack in the timing chain is in the back, if it doesn't align exactly right at the top of the head, err slightly high. Zip tie chain to intake sprocket.
   

1. Remove exhaust cam, count 12 links (where sprocket teeth will go) from the punch mark on the top of the intake cam and mark that position on the chain with something noticeable (use a Sharpie). Hold the exhaust cam close the to intake cam with the exhaust cams pointing horizontally to the front of the bike. With the exhaust cam in this position, there will be a punch mark at the top. Put the tooth above this punch mark in the chain link you marked that was 12 or 13 over. Zip-tie the chain to the exhaust cam.
   
2. Reseat exhaust cam. The punch mark on the left side of the exhaust sprocket will align with the top of the head. It will be one link high. Go back and check that the I is still centered in the timing plug hole
   1. the intake cams point back
      
   2. the exhaust cams point frontward
      
   3. the rear punch mark on the intake is aligned or slight high with the top of the head
      
   4. the front punch mark of the exhaust sprocket is aligned with the top of the head
      
3. Bolt and torque exhaust cam, torque intake if you've had it off.
   
4. Install chain tensioner (wind it up, hold the screwdriver with two hands, use the third hand to put hold tensioner in place, and fourth hand to bolt it up, then release screwdriver and put end bolt in it.
   
5. Remove zip ties on intake sprocket, exhaust sprocket, and ratchet holding TDC. Remove ratchet and replace both plugs.
   
6. Put on valve cover and two hoses, reinstall tank and seat and go riding.
   

Please rate this a Fixya.

There are two sizes of metal........use one of each to create the eyelet.

Thread the longer one over the stalk shaped side, and the shorter one on the other side........if the fabric is lightweight, the clamping motion should also cut the hole as it engages to create the eyelet...if it is too thick, you will need a hole punch to clear the way first.

The action is for the longer shaft to pass through the fabric, then the inside edge of the smaller one, then the edges are bent and rolled but the flanged die to finish and secure......try a few samples on scrap first.