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It depends what kind of car it's installed into and the mounting technique used. Removal keys apply only to a radio that has been DIN mounted (ie: metal sleeve utilized). Many vehicles or radio kits use the ISO mounting method which involves screwing into the sides of the radio to secure it. Keys will not help in this situation. The dash or radio trim must be removed to access the screws on the sides.
With the front trim of the JVC removed, you should be able to see the metal sleeve around the radio if it was used. If not, the radio was ISO mounted.
If you purchased an installation kit it should include universal mounting brackets. Perhaps you do not have an installation kit for installing your new stereo in your Accord. The kits are designed for installation of certain stereos in an Accord; not every model
He may have to get underneath the dashboard and see if their is a security strap or wire harness holding the radio into the mounting sleeve. It's common for installers to strap down the stereo to prevent thefts and other installer from easily taking the radio out. Have him keep trying.
The Honda Civic requires a dash adaptor you need this wiring harness to install the stereo it dont seem a dash adaptor is required for the 94 model you use the cage/sleeve to install the sony in your car you will also need this removal tool and either wire nuts, heat shrink tubing, crimp caps and crimp tool or the common solder and wrap in electrical tape method to connect the wiring harness for the honda to the wiring harness for the stereo
This is a simple problem. The input jack is a "stereo" type which we call TRS for tip-ring-sleeve meaning there are three connections. It will involve soldering.
The way it is used with your guitar cable is that the third contact on that jack (the "ring") is used to turn the thing on because your MONAURAL guitaar cable shorts that ring contact to the sleeve completing the circuit for the battery or power cube if you are using that.
These jacks are EASILY destroyed by bending the plugged in cable a bit.
Solution: Go to Radio Shack and get a panel mounted "Stereo" jack (they may come two to a package, make sure it is the Stereo type).
Open your unit and install the jack. If the one in your pedal is a plastic one mounted on the board (those are even more fragile) see if you can't use the Radio Shack type anyway with short jumper wires to the circuit board.
If you would rather use a board mounted one, they are available from Mouser.com or DigiKey.com. You can pick out the part from teh online catalog... note that there are MANY ocnfigurations.
The pump mount is installed under the bottle cage, if you have one, using the same bolts. Sometimes longer bolts are required. The pump snaps into its mount besides the bottle cage, on the left or right side.
goto the auto parts store and purchase a pair of stereo keys, fascia adaptor and wiring harness (you may need to get fascia and harness from a car audio store or circuit city.)
Then use the stereo keys to remove the factory stereo. Push them into the small holes on the front of the stereo push them slightly outwards and pull to release the stereo. Unplug all the connectors from back keeping track of where they fall.
Insert wiring harness into the stock wiring
attach fascia in regards to its packaged instructions.
Place cage from new stereo into the hole in the dash using the tabs on cage to secure it,
Attach stereo to other end of new harness along with aerial (may need adaptor for this also depending on the new head unit.)
Insert stereo into new cage and voila nice new stereo.
The two sleeves go between the cage ends thus creating a "connection", and covering the ends of the two parts of the cage (stick the sleeves on one side, then insert the end on the other side of the cage).Make sense?