- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
It depends what kind of car it's installed into and the mounting technique used. Removal keys apply only to a radio that has been DIN mounted (ie: metal sleeve utilized). Many vehicles or radio kits use the ISO mounting method which involves screwing into the sides of the radio to secure it. Keys will not help in this situation. The dash or radio trim must be removed to access the screws on the sides.
With the front trim of the JVC removed, you should be able to see the metal sleeve around the radio if it was used. If not, the radio was ISO mounted.
If you purchased an installation kit it should include universal mounting brackets. Perhaps you do not have an installation kit for installing your new stereo in your Accord. The kits are designed for installation of certain stereos in an Accord; not every model
He may have to get underneath the dashboard and see if their is a security strap or wire harness holding the radio into the mounting sleeve. It's common for installers to strap down the stereo to prevent thefts and other installer from easily taking the radio out. Have him keep trying.
The Honda Civic requires a dash adaptor you need this wiring harness to install the stereo it dont seem a dash adaptor is required for the 94 model you use the cage/sleeve to install the sony in your car you will also need this removal tool and either wire nuts, heat shrink tubing, crimp caps and crimp tool or the common solder and wrap in electrical tape method to connect the wiring harness for the honda to the wiring harness for the stereo
This is a simple problem. The input jack is a "stereo" type which we call TRS for tip-ring-sleeve meaning there are three connections. It will involve soldering.
The way it is used with your guitar cable is that the third contact on that jack (the "ring") is used to turn the thing on because your MONAURAL guitaar cable shorts that ring contact to the sleeve completing the circuit for the battery or power cube if you are using that.
These jacks are EASILY destroyed by bending the plugged in cable a bit.
Solution: Go to Radio Shack and get a panel mounted "Stereo" jack (they may come two to a package, make sure it is the Stereo type).
Open your unit and install the jack. If the one in your pedal is a plastic one mounted on the board (those are even more fragile) see if you can't use the Radio Shack type anyway with short jumper wires to the circuit board.
If you would rather use a board mounted one, they are available from Mouser.com or DigiKey.com. You can pick out the part from teh online catalog... note that there are MANY ocnfigurations.
Assuming this is a XG 350, the process is lengthly.
1. Remove the RH radiator cooling fan (two 10mm bolts at the top & wiring harness connector to it).
2. Lift vehicle to remove the Right Front wheel (then remove 4 10mm bolts securing the plastic splash shield & remove it)
3. Loosen the 14mm nut on the alternator belt tensioner pully
4. Loosen the tension on the belt by rotating (counter-clockwise) the 14mm bolt at the bottom of the idler pully and remove the belt.
5. remove the pully & the idler pully (three 12 mm bolts)
6. Loosen the 14mm nuts at the top and bottom mounting points of the alternator.
7. Using a floor jack (or vehicle lift), support the engine using a jack-stand & 2x4 piece of wood under the oil pan.
8. This is tricky - lift the engine 'SLIGHTLY' to take pressure off the front engine mount - loosen the 17 mm nut on top of the mount itself and observe engine movement. If the engine moves upward 'slightly' remove the 17mm nut - if not, raise the engine slight more until you see the mounting bracket rise off the mount.
9. Remove the remaining 17mm nut (deep well socket), and two 17mm bolts and remove the engine mount bracket.
10. Here's another tricky step. Some 350's bottom Alternator bolt bores are 'SLOTTED'... some are NOT. You'll need to determine wether you'll need to REMOVE the lower bolt, or just loosen the mounting sleeve at the bottom bolt. If it's 'sleeved', I use an air hammer to loosen the sleeve. If it's not slotted, I remove the lower bolt (it's the only way to remove the alternator and pry it off).
11. At the top is an "L" bracket which uses two 12mm bolts to attach it to the engine (head). One of the two 12mm bolts is difficult to get to -- do your best to remove it because the battery cable to the alternator is in the way.
12. Disconnect the alternator wiring (battery cable & regulator harness connector)
13. Lift the engine as high as it will go & pry the alternator off its lower mounting.
14. manuver the alternator upward taking care not to damage the radiator.
15. Installation is in reverse order.
NOTE: If your XG's lower mounting point was slotted, your task is easy. If it isn't, your task now becomes more difficult as you must align the new alternator to facillitate re-insertion of the lower bolt.
PS If not slotted, I use a telliscoping magnet to help re-insert the lower bolt.
The pump mount is installed under the bottle cage, if you have one, using the same bolts. Sometimes longer bolts are required. The pump snaps into its mount besides the bottle cage, on the left or right side.
goto the auto parts store and purchase a pair of stereo keys, fascia adaptor and wiring harness (you may need to get fascia and harness from a car audio store or circuit city.)
Then use the stereo keys to remove the factory stereo. Push them into the small holes on the front of the stereo push them slightly outwards and pull to release the stereo. Unplug all the connectors from back keeping track of where they fall.
Insert wiring harness into the stock wiring
attach fascia in regards to its packaged instructions.
Place cage from new stereo into the hole in the dash using the tabs on cage to secure it,
Attach stereo to other end of new harness along with aerial (may need adaptor for this also depending on the new head unit.)
Insert stereo into new cage and voila nice new stereo.