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Could be a heater or pcb failure, if you are hearing the bang/knock during fill up it could be the water is not reaching level and then the heater will not come on (boil dry sensing) try the following. Turn mains off first. The pressure chamber or hose (pressure chamber to sump) may be blocked and the microswitch is being activated because the water is not entering the tank quick enough. Isolate from electric, remove lid and left panel (looking from the front). There is a plastic chamber bottom right of left side with two microswitches, either this is blocked or the hose that runs from it to the right and along the back of the kick panel and into the sump. Clear either or both (make sure all hoses are pushed true when repositioning). If the pressure chamber is excessively blocked it will probably need replacing. Costs approx 25pound direct from Bosch service division (BSH Home Appliance Ltd). Best of luck
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The more resistance the elements have the quicker your water heats up. Resistance creates the heat. If a new element is 7 ohms, it is more likely than not that your elements are not the issue.
I understand that you electric hot water tank is not producing hot water. To diagnosis the problem we will need a few tools. Here is a list of the tools you will need. Multi-meter Screw driver (Flat and Philips) ¼ inch nut driver or ratchet and socket 5/16 inch nut driver or ratchet and socket Diagnosis Electric Hot water tank problems:
1. First you will need to remove the service panels on the side of the hot water tank to expose the thermostat and heating elements. Careful as power is still on to the unit. Now that you have removed the service panels we need to proceed to the next step.
2. On the thermostat there are two wires coming into the top two screws these are line one and line two they are the main power feed. Take your probes from the multi-meter and touch to each screw and you should receive a reading of 220 volts. If you receive this reading then move to the next step. If you do not get a 220 reading then your breaker is tripped or bad.
3. Got the proper power then you will want to check the thermostat reset button. In the middle of the thermostat is a red button press it in and see if it clicks. If the button clicks it means that the thermostat has tripped do to over heating. Wait an hour and see how your hot water is doing. If still the same replace the thermostat.
4. Use your multi meter to check for power to the heating elements. The heating elements have two screws with wires on them. You will want to take one probe to each screw and see what the VAC reading is (if power is present you should receive 220 volts) if you do not get the correct reading then the thermostat needs replaced. You will need to do the same thing to the lower element.
5. To check the heating elements turn off the power to the unit at the breaker. Check to make sure the power is off by using your meter at the thermostat. Remove the wires off of the element and check it for continuity if not continuity then the element is bad and needs replaced.
Replacing the Thermostat
1. Turn off the power. 2. Label and remove all wires from the thermostat 3. Pull clips forward on sides and pull thermostat upward to remove 4. Install new thermostat in reverse
Replacing the Element(s)
1. Turn off power to the unit 2. Turn off water to hot water tank and drain 3. Remove element from tank 4. Slide new element in tank 5. Turn water supply on and check for leaks 6. Reconnect wires 7. Turn on hot water faucet some where in the house to allow air to escape from tank. 8. Turn power on once hot water tank is full.
you can its your water heater , but the heating elements are sized to tank.. Stay with original specs The electrical may be to small for the additional power requirments
This is the most common reason why your dishwasher is not
drying. To check this remove the toe kick, remove one wire from heating
element and check ohm reading. Compare the reading to the tech sheet or
service manual. If it has no continuity at all replace the element. Make
sure the element is getting power. To do this connect voltmeter to each
lead of the heating element then select a dry cycle you should have 120
volts if not the problem is in the control. If it does have power and
does not heat up replace the element. The heating elements is easy to replace.
Timer/ Control
This is not as common as the heater but can fail. To check this
select a dry cycle and check to see if the heating element has power if
it does not replace the control . If the element does have power and does not heat up replace heating elements
While the power is off to the water heater it's safe to remove the access panels. Once the elements are exposed a multimeter that is set on the Ohms can be used. The average reading of a good element is around 12 ohms. This can range a few ohms up or down. If you don't get a good reading the element will need to be replaced.
If the water heater has two elements the top element should be checked first. When a Whirlpool heater has two elements and the top goes out this will cause the water heater not to heat at all.
If both elements show they are good it would be recommended to contact the manufacturer. The technical support line for the Whirlpool water heaters is 1-877-817-6750.
look for a badly connected power line ont he bottom element, or any connection upstream of the power terminals. voltage readings usually drop to that range when you only have one side of the 220v circuit connected.
I do not know what heat control valve you are referring to on an electric water heater. On an electric water heater it has two heating elements in most cases. One at the top and one on the bottom. One of these is more than likely defective. Turn the power to the water heater off at the service panel or at a disconnect switch. Now take the covers off both heating elements. Check each one with a ohm meter to see if you have continuity. If your meter reads nothing that heating element is bad and needs replacing. On each heating element is a thermostat to set the temperature. Set the upper element to 120 degrees and the lower element to 130 degrees.
If you have opened the unit and are reading power to the heating elements then the element(s) are open and need to be replaced. Contacting the company is your only option.
(1)Have the unit check for electric voltage to the element
If voltage going to the element and no heating
(2)Your heating element may be defective.
(3) Have it replace by qualified personel
Check with a multi-meter for voltage (220/115v) on heating element's tags.
If you can read this voltage on tags - you should replace the heating element
In case you can't read voltage on its tags, disconnect one of the wires from its tag (you should unplug first your machine's power cable!) and test for element's resistance - If you can read its resistance, you should replace the thermostat. In case of no resistance - you should replace element and thermostat
Good luck!
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