Compressor works fine one time, then the next time it's used, it will run for a long period of time without building pressure. Runs till I shut it off. The next time I go to use it, pressure comes right up and it works fine again. Might work 3 or 4 times, then fail the next, or might fail to build pressure few times before it works properly the next time.
Bought it used last spring. Started acting up in late fall.
Maybe bad check valve?
An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 500 times.
Porter Cable Master
Re: Intermittent pressure building
The check valve is easy to test. All that you have to do is run the compressor till you have some pressure in the tank, 50 ~ 60 lbs will do, then remove the air discharge tube at the check valve installed in the tank (the brass valve). Spray soapy water into the valve. Tiny leak is ok, rapid leak replace valve with generic valve from www.grainger.com . Most likely problem is worn cylinder or reed valves in the head. To check cylinder, unplug unit and (oilfree compressor) remove cover to expose the crank. Push the piston all the way up and check for scratches on the upper part of cylinder. If scratched, replace with kit# K-0650 available at www.toolpartsdirect.com. If cylinder is smooth all the way up then problem should be the reedvalve plate in the head. The reeds could be held open with debris or broken. Clean or replace as needed. Good Luck and email if you have questions about the repair. (Oil in crankcase type compressor will not have cylinder problems)
a 6ya Repairman can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Repairman (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
No there is not a filter. Since the pump is enclosed in the plastic covers there would not be a way to service it. Now if it is not building any pressure then it could be a few things. First would be the drive belt. (item 125) If it breaks then it won't pump at all. Also if the air hose that exits the pump (item 122) gets a hole in it then it won't fill the tank. A worn head valve plate (item 106), blown gasket (item 105), or a worn piston and sleeve (items 109 and 112-2) can also cause this. If the check valve into the tank (item 16) gets stuck open it too will limit how much the compressor will pump BUT usually it will build up some pressure then just keep running without building any higher pressure into the tank.
Here is a parts diagram so you can see where the belt and other parts are located plus it contains all of the part numbers.
First take off the head on the air pump and check the reed valves on the valve plate. If they got hot and warped or cracked they'll work to a point then no more pressure can be built up. Next check the pistion ring and cylinder wall. If either is damaged you'll only get so much pressure build-up then it will leak past the piston.
I have the same compressor with the same problem. I have temporarily eliminated the thermal reset with a piece of 12 gauge hard wire and it runs just fine. However, I do want to replace it before the warm weather come to the north. I tested the draw at 15.5 amps and the reset was a 17 amp. I am told by someone with superior electrical background that I need to install a 20 amp thermal reset in it's place. I have found that mine runs best when plugged directly into a 20 amp circuit and when using an extention cord I have a 10 guage cord that will carry the load needed to run the EC12. I have also changed to 100% synthetic oil.
2 gallons is small to begin with u need to buy an in line pressure adjuster/regulator their a few bucks and can be attached to the paint gun or line and will keep the pressure at ur adjustment the regulator on the tank sets the tank pressure at 50 so when u us it will let it drop down to about 45 than start up to build the pressure up to 50 than shuts off than repeats it self the inline keeps pressure steady even if tanks are at 200 psi
Hi, First, I think the cutoff pressure is 135psi and there is an overpressure valve so let it run a little longer. I don't know exactly which model you have ( some of these were oil less) but if it is running longer than you remember, be sure to check the oil if necessary, make sure you are not using a long extension as this will cause the motor to slow down and definitely check to make sure the water is drained and the drain petcock is closed all the way. Also check it without an air hose attached. Good Luck!