Question about Flat Panel Televisions

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(2)Magnavox 50MF231D/37 Replaced 3300uf 10V caps with 3300 uf 16V caps and set fired up with fantastic pic for 3 days Not one problem so I mounted back on wall. Now it is doing this. See flicker photo. (copy and paste in browser) http://www.flickr.com/photos/35740271@N02/?saved=1 I was told it could be the PS module. I don't think it is a Y-buffer as its not half black screen upper or lower. Someone else told me its "dry joints" But I don't have black verical bars. Need some help here.... I also have another Magnavox same model. Replaced bad 3300uf 10V caps and it still won't turn on. Still has fault LED. No other caps look bad on any PSB's other than the (2) 3300uf 10V caps. I bought these sets on same day and they both went out within a week of eachother a little over a year after purchase. I'd like to pointed in the right direction hopefully not 10 dif ones. Advise please.... I spent a lot on these sets for the Hubby when he was in Iraq. I wanted to surprise him with his very own MAN room. I expected them to last longer than a year... He came home to 2 50" door stops.... Surprise they don't work... LOL

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  • gysgt2u1 Feb 26, 2009

    Both sets were manu in 06 according to info inside display. They are both out of warranty. Calling Magnavox CS is like clapping with one hand. So Replacing bad 3300uf 10V caps to 3300uf16V fixed one set for 3 days. The other set still won't turn on and has blinking RED led after repair. I have pics of the PSB and bad caps on the sammie boards. PSB were removed and taken to AVI (avionics mini comp tech) On base for soldering. They is no excess solder at repair cap. I can only look at the one that isn't mounted to the wall for ref. The one that still won't turn on after replacing poped caps.

  • gysgt2u1 Feb 26, 2009

    Yes both sets would turn on and click off with blinking fault LED. No pic no sound

  • gysgt2u1 Feb 26, 2009

    And another yes. The set that worked for 3 days had same problem before repair.

  • gysgt2u1 Feb 26, 2009

    (2)Magnavox 50MF231D/37 Replaced 3300uf 10V caps with 3300 uf 16V caps and set fired up with fantastic pic for 3 days Not one problem so I mounted back on wall. Now it is doing this. See flicker photo. (copy and paste in browser)http://www.flickr.com/photos/35740271@N02/?saved=1 I was told it could be the PS module. I don't think it is a Y-buffer as its not half black screen upper or lower. Someone else told me its "dry joints" But I don't have black verical bars. Need some help here.... I also have another Magnavox same model. Replaced bad 3300uf 10V caps and it still won't turn on. Still has fault LED. No other caps look bad on any PSB's other than the (2) 3300uf 10V caps. I bought these sets on same day and they both went out within a week of eachother a little over a year after purchase. I'd like to pointed in the right direction hopefully not 10 dif ones. Advise please.... I spent a lot on these sets for the Hubby when he was in Iraq. I wanted to surprise him with his very own MAN room. I expected them to last longer than a year... He came home to 2 50" door stops.... Surprise they don't work... LOL

  • gysgt2u1 Feb 27, 2009

    I would test with a Meter but I don't have specs/schematics and don't know how to discharge voltage without discharging it into myself LOL... Unless there is some (service code) that I can use. Therefore for the time being I stick to an unpluged set and look for visuals.



    I have 2 of these sets. So I'm not sure if there was a misunderstading. I replaced bad 3300UF 10V caps on both. Both sets had completely poped 3300uf 10V caps. I replaced with 3300UF 16V. One set worked great for for 3 days after repair. I have a picture posted on flicker to show what that set is now doing. Copy and paste into your browser. http://www.flickr.com/photos/35740271@N02/?saved=1



    The other set after repair still just has bliniking RED LED. NO pic NO sound. Before repairing both of these sets would click on green-then click of. I would turn back on either at side Power or with remote and it immediatley went to RED fault LED. They both blinked the same amount of times. Theres is no coincidence here. I bought these sets on same day and they went out within a week of eachother exhibiting the same problem. From what I can see on the net I am not the only one. What I beleived to be a fix for the one that worked for 3 days has turned into another problem. I'd lke to try and get a solution to the one that did turn on after repalcing caps and hold off on the one that still won't power on. If someone could advise me what the problem could be now with it. Take a look at the picture on flicker photos to have a look at the set.



    Semper Fi

  • gysgt2u1 Feb 27, 2009
  • gysgt2u1 Feb 27, 2009

    DIY right here. its a plasma... There aren't any black vertical bars. It pulls what ever color is from the top half display into vertical colored bars on the bottom half. The only black is on the sides (blobbed) on R-L as per pics which is constant.

  • gysgt2u1 Feb 27, 2009

    I guess I can say thanks for trying... I don't believe plasma has bulbs I could be wrong... It can't be a leaking LCD as it is a plasma.

  • gysgt2u1 Feb 27, 2009

    Thats the same thing I paid someone my hard earned greenbacks to tell me 5 months ago, before I decided to pull the back cover off and replace the bad caps. I just don't believe you go from perfect display after repair of bad caps to now you need to replace the entire panel cause the plates are bad on your plasma. I've owned these sets for 18-going on 19 months. There is less that 80 hours veiwing time on both. Literally 1 week after the year warranty was up one set went and then the other followed a week later. It started out with slow start. Then no sound but pic then no pic but sound till I was left with just a blinking fault LED No pic no sound. It wouldn't be the first time someone just tells be the entire panel is bad. Sometimes the simplest answer is the one that is the solution. For lack of better words here it something very simple... From caps to perhaps boards or modules....



    Does anyone have schematics on this model? or has anyone encountered this particular problem with this particular model or on another?



    I'm confident a solution is still out there.... Just have to get it in the right hands....



    Semper Fi

  • gysgt2u1 Feb 28, 2009

    Swapping out Drive X-main.... Will post again when I narrow it down.....

  • gysgt2u1 Mar 02, 2009





    I haven't gotten this in the right hands yet. I must forewarn you I am a woman scourned and without a prenup (well warranty). Dangerous combo... I have (2) 50" plasmas Model 50MF231D/37 I purchased them 12/06 Jan 08 they went out. Literally within a week of eachother. NO pic no sound and blinking error LED 4xs in seq.



    I orig bought these for my husbands "Man" room when he was in Iraq. When he got home I left for Iraq and he had 2 50" doorstops and a 20" tv to stare at. It's not easy on us being dual Mil but we make it through. I thought about him a lot and the 20" LOL poor guy. I can't complain too much I got most of the veiwing time out of them and he fitted the bill for it LOL. I told him when I got back from TQ I would try to fix em' SO here I am.... Proud to be here and happy to serve....



    I removed the back panel and replaced the 3300UF 10V caps that were poped on the set. I put cover back on and 50 screws later the TV fired up great pic no problems for 3 days. So We mounted the set back to the wall. ON the 4th day the set scrambled. Top display visible and pulls color from top half into vertical colored bars that roll along the bottom of PDP. Along with that is in and out colorful "snow" pixels and black blobs on the (L)-(R) of PDP. ( see pics on flicker) I think it may be the YSUS and the buffers upper and lower. Need some addy here. I don't want to just go replacing boards that aren't the prob. I also see that there is comPAIR for this set but where would I get that? Seems life would be easier if I knew where to get the interface box.cables and SW. I broke down and bought the schematics for this model yesterday 3/1



    On the other set I did same thing replaced the bad caps with the 16V ones and the set still won't startup. Same blinking fault. I was thinking SSB??? From what I can determine in the service manu the error code is I2C4 which points to the SSB/logic board. Is there a way I can narrow which board is causing the fault protection? I haven't done mini comp in years but its kinda like riding a bike. If I can't figure on my own I will just take boards to AVI (avionics mini comp tech) on base here in ummm beautiful Yuma AZ for testing of diodes and resistors at board level. Or I can borrow a meter and some grounding gear to do it myself with some instruction. I didn't get the nick name SPARKY for nothing. I've been trying to live that down for years now... So please help me out here. I just want to know in your experience what could be the cause of the first prob I have and what could be the cause of second... Women and their problems huh.... Bare with me.... It does get better....



    Semper Fi

  • gysgt2u1 Mar 03, 2009

    Not a flush mount its a pitch/tilt mount. There is about 12" from top pitch and aprox 5" bottom out from wall. Pretty well ventilated.

  • gysgt2u1 Mar 03, 2009

    Havne't opened the set back up that is on the wall. As I am vertically challenged and it is mounted 7' at lowest point. I would have to recruit a few hands to aid me in take down. When I do that I have to provide cold beverages and fire up the grill... I am try to get some idea beforehand. I do have the otther set that is accesible and at my level so to speak lol.... One that after repair still has error code.

  • gysgt2u1 Mar 21, 2009

    Not sure what I paid for here. 10 bucks for no solutions. And 20 bucks for no solution. Out 30 bucks now.... Sure I will get back the 20 back. LOL

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Have you opened the set up... i'm willing to be the capacitors have failed again. when it is mounted on the wall is it flush mounted. i suspect the power supply overheats.

Posted on Mar 01, 2009

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Some connections or components are loosened it looks.just check them and fix them firmly.

Posted on Feb 27, 2009

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  • Flat Panel T... Master
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That filickering happens when some of the board is not well grounded, ensure that you have screwed back all the boards in the right way.

Posted on Feb 27, 2009

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This could be a problem with the charging plates for the plasma gas which is how the pixel elements are created to begin with. Which looks like it is causing your issue when this happens im sorry but the only solution is to replace the panel.

Posted on Feb 27, 2009

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The coloured lines on the screen look like a bulb problem but the black marks look like leaking lcd.
has this been to a shop for repair or did you do it yourself?

Posted on Feb 27, 2009

  • sean sutton
    sean sutton Feb 27, 2009

    here are some of the issues with plasma tv's and the fixes or things that could be broken.

    No picture but has sound power supply, X or Y sustain board, bad screen (PDP panel), logic board,buffer boards

    Vertical or horizontal lines on the picture X or Y drivers, buffer board, bad PDP panel (screen) ,bad logic contol board Negative image Y sustain board

    Stops working after a while bad connections, power supply, internal components overheating, cooling fans, leaking capacitors, timer is on,

    Bright pixels on the screen power supply (adjustment) ,y sustain board, poor connections

    if the lines on your screen are staying on all the time you may have to replace the screen. as gas is between the two screens on plasma it has many issues with heat and air pressure of surrounding area.
    drivers would be a big issue as there could be 40 of them.


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There is not a lot to go on here, but let me throw out a few possiblities that you can investigate further. These sets use a switch mode supply as well as many safety circuits. If any problems are detected, the unit will either shutdown or not power up and cause the standby light to blink. Unfortunately, this is just an indication that there is a problem and not any particular pointer to a specific problem. As you have already done, checking the caps is a good start. Since you have indicated that the solder connections appear good, the next step is to start checking the semiconductors. Do you have a multi-meter that has a diode checker? If so, start checking both diodes and transistors. You may find one or more that are shorted.

Keep us posted. In the meantime, I will try to locate the service manual to get you more details.

Dan

Posted on Feb 26, 2009

  • ABRsvcs Mar 02, 2009

    I don't have the service manual for that unit. If you have it electronically and can Email it to me, I can walk you through the diagnosis steps.



    Dan

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Do you have some soder touching in side?

Posted on Feb 25, 2009

  • 4 more comments 
  • albert getty
    albert getty Feb 25, 2009

    how old are sets?

  • albert getty
    albert getty Feb 25, 2009

    and did the set that worked for 3 days have the same problem before repair?

  • albert getty
    albert getty Feb 26, 2009

    so must be the same problem but some thing is causeing that one

  • albert getty
    albert getty Feb 26, 2009

    did you replace parts your self?

  • albert getty
    albert getty Mar 21, 2009

    Hi I think you need to do same repair as last time but this time replace the whole board.

  • albert getty
    albert getty Mar 21, 2009

    the same board you changed the compassedtors on

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1 Answer

I have a Philips 37PF9631D/37 which has 6 times blinking red light syndrome. After opening up it appears there are two 250V 820 uF capacitors that may be faulty. Are these safe to...


Look for bad capacitors on power supply board they will be vented or swollen on top.
1000uf 16v 3300uf 10v 330uf 10v. Look for boards on shopjimmy.com
Also check the fuse on the inverter board it maybe bad.

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1 Answer

I have a Magnavox 50mf231d/37 plasma tv that comes on then shuts off. no picture. when it shuts down the green led on front stays on . i tried th do a software update and thats when the shut down...


There's a good chance you have failing electrolytic capacitors either in the power section or the inverter section or both.
Any caps in these sections that look bulged at the top, or bulged/leaking at the bottom (look for discoloration of the circuit board around the base of the capacitor) need to be replaced.
If you repeatedly turn it off and on, eventually it'll probably stay on, but every time you turn it off, the unit will get harder and harder to start up until one day it just won't.
Sometimes you have to do the opposite to start it up and unplug it for some time and then try again.

If you aren't tech savvy, don't worry, read the rest of this solution and watch the videos.

If you are handy with a soldering iron and can identify the power supply and/or inverter / FM section for the backlights, an inexpensive handful of capacitors will likely fix you right up.
Match the capacitance on the capacitors. Go over voltage if you can, and still have them fit.
IE - it's not a bad idea to replace a 10V cap with a 16V or 25V or even a 50V, but don't replace a 680uF cap with a 500uF or a 1000uF (unless you are SURE it's only doing supply output ripple filtering,
and even then, you should go OVER, not under the uF rating).

Most of the caps that go are 10V 1000uF or 3300uF.

I found some great videos of the procedure (for many Samsungs with the same issue) on youtube.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mm51C_RDIZE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BNHHrgX_6cs&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8l0AUj8QUkg&NR=1&feature=fvwp
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y7b_nTaZYcU&feature=related

Backlight related video here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6XoF6QZ1dmw&feature=related

As you can see, this issue spans plasma TVs, as well as large and small LCD TVs and monitors, amplifiers, computer power supplies and motherboards, and other electronic equipment.
The parts are cheap, and skill required is minimal.
A great parts source is Digi-Key, and you can order the parts online at www.digikey.com
They typically cost under a dollar a piece plus a flat shipping rate.
The parts usually arrive one business day later.
If you watch the third video, you will see that even someone with no soldering experience can perform these repairs as demonstrated by the woman in the video.

Aug 24, 2011 | Philips Magnavox 42MF521D/37 Television

1 Answer

Hi just a related post question.... I initially had the same prob with my tv it flashed red 7 times so, I took out the main board and brought to a local tv repair shop to have (2) capacitors that were...


i would think its because they have put in 16v 3300 105degreeC and not 10v 3300uf 105degreeC if the 10v ones had blown then they should of put 10v back in it might be that the 16v are to high for the unit.
hope this helps

Feb 19, 2011 | Philips 42PF9631D 42 in. Plasma Television

1 Answer

Will not turn on or off, just makes clicking noise


Remove back cover and check uF 10V caps for swelling and or leakage. If some of them are swollen replace all 10 volt caps with 3300uF 16V. There are about 10 one is 1000uF.

Apr 14, 2010 | LG 42PX5D 42 in. Plasma HDTV

1 Answer

37mf23id magnavox takes 15 min to come on . its a magnavox which is made by philips


You need to replace the power board,Or replace the capactors on it.
Replacing the capactors is the best idea.They are under rated at 10volt insted of 16volt or higher. They cost less too. If you replace the board,you will still have the same problem again later. They are usualy 680uf 10v,1000uf 10v,2200uf 10v,and 3300uf 10v. Replace them with the same uf but 16v or 25v EXPANPLE use... 1000uf 16v or 1000uf 25v
They are polorised Blak spot on board is the - side of cap. Stripe on cap is -. The caps. swell if they are bad. The tops round out,or the X on top breaks anfand black or brown goo comes out. Top should be flat. It I can assist you further please feel free to ask. toddthetvmd@yahoo.com

Oct 27, 2009 | Philips Flat Panel Televisions

1 Answer

I have the same model 37MF321D/37 and the Blinking Light


I fixed it by replacing the two capacitors with 3300uf 25v instead of Magnavox's 3300uf 10v and a power swith that I ordered from http://www.encompassparts.com/. Also I did have a power supply put in from a repair place that cost $160.00. It is working perfect now and no blinking light.

Sep 20, 2009 | Philips Magnavox 42MF521D/37 Television

1 Answer

I have a Philips Plasma 50PF9431D/37 shuts off/red light blinking


If the caps you are talking are numbers C8059 & 8060 rated at 3300uF @ 10v then yes that can be the problem. You can use a higher voltage rating( 16v,20v,) but DO NOT change the micro farad (uF) rating. You can do a search for the caps but www.mcmelectronics.com has alot of parts. Go to service parts and components in thier website and then search under capacitors.

Sep 06, 2009 | Flat Panel Televisions

2 Answers

Magnavox 50mf231d/37


the clicking is the relay -- check the fuses on the supply board and you might need to purchase a new board

Mar 02, 2009 | Philips Magnavox 42MF521D/37 Television

4 Answers

Red blinking light on a Magnavox Plasma TV


Here is the solution. For less that 100$ your Magnavox Plasma TV. Model # 50MF2310/37 will be running like a champ.

Issue:

Magnavox Plasma TV. Model # 50MF2310/37 screen has no picture. There is no sound, TV comes on and then after a few seconds clicks and screen remains blank.

Cause:

On the main power circuit board to Capacitors are prone to failure from over load. The caps are 3300uf 10v 105+c capacitors located to the left of the AC power input.

Service:

Magnavox will refer you to a service center. They will advise $$$ for an inspection. They will also want to charge upwards of 500$ to replace the entire board.

Solution:

1. Unplug your TV
2. Disconnect all connections from your TV
3. With assistance lay your TV on its face on a non-scratching service
4. Remove the back panel screws.
5. Lift back panel off
6. The central board is your main power board.
7. Remove all wire harnesses from the main board.
8. Remove all screws that are holding the main board in place.
9. Lift the main board out and carefully place it into a non electromagnetic pouch.
10. Take the board to a Circuit Board repair shop.
11. Have them replace the the above mentioned Caps.
12. Re-install the board in your TV.

NOTE: Replace the caps with 3300uf 16v 105+ high temp caps(preferrably Japanese caps)

This fix cost me 80$ and my time to search for other who had the same issue. Try searching for Magnavox Plasma TV. Model # 50MF2310/37 bad circuit board or Magnavox Plasma TV bad capacitors or Magnavox Plasma TV bad ciruit board.

Hope this all help, Magnavox is should take ownership for this problem and recall any tv's that have these caps in them. The worst part about this is that teh **** from the repair center that was paid 100$ to check the TV, stripped out the screw holes and damaged the case for the TV.

Portland Laptop Repair was awesome. They repaired the board and it looked like new. Check them out at http://www.laptopportland.com/

Jeff G
Portland, OR

Feb 10, 2008 | Akai PDP4294 42 in. EDTV-Ready Plasma...

2 Answers

Help


This is probably caused by faulty capacitors in the power supply. This is a common problem with this model. If you no longer have a standby light, it could also be caused by an unidentified short on the main board. Hope this helps you out.

Dec 30, 2007 | Akai LCT2662 Television

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