ELAN IIE Users

For walking around, i.e., non-tripod shots, I switched the depth of
field preview to one of the buttons on the top right back of the body,
can't recall which CF# that is, but I like it better than trying to
eyeball target the DoF square with eye control

Still use mine also, usually load it up with B&W to get same photo in both
mediums. Next purchase should be a dedicated speedlite (380/420/550EX) -
small built-in flash is hardly ever what you want to use. When using flash,
make liberal use of the FEL feature (flash exposure lock) on your IIe. Like
Bill, I also preferred using partial metering for nearly any
situation Oh yea, you will definitely want to acquire that great
little RC-1 remote ($20 +tx at Wolf camera) to use with that camera. I
continue to lament that Canon did not see fit to incorporate that into their
higher ended models. Remoting their 1V, for example, is a mega buck
exercise! You can even use that RC-1 to do bulb exposures - no holding any
button down to hold the shutter open!! Study and enjoy;)

Shoot'em up, pinhole to zeiss, Agfa, Fuji, Kodak and all the rest will love
you for it!!

Jim

...

...

I found AI Servo, and Multi-Frame advance, to be the most useful for any
particular shooting situation. Easy enough to only take one frame when you
want, but ready to get that sequence of shots when needed. Don't count on
holding down the shutter and reeling off frames to catch the decisive moment
of action, though - 2.5 fps isn't fast enough to get a fast action sequence
in detail. Instead, time your shutter releases carefully for peak action.

I switched the Auto-Exposure-Lock button on the back (*CF) to
depth-of-field preview through Custom Function 4, set at 2. I can now check
DOF at any time, and not just with the eye-control icon in the viewfinder.
The icon only works in One-Shot mode, which I never use. Note that the *CF
button still functions as AE Lock, so be aware of it if you're changing
composition while checking DOF. Another half-press of the shutter will reset
the AE Lock (You'll see the * in the viewfinder).

CF 05 set to 1. This allows the two-second mirror prefire when used with
the self-timer or the RC-1 remote (don't have one? Get one!). This is useful
when camera shake can be crucial to your shot, long telephoto, slower
shutter, or macro work. The mirror flips up two seconds before the shutter
trips (only on timer/remote), allowing mirror slap vibrations to die down so
they won't shake the camera while the shutter's open.

Once you get used to how Eye-Control focus works, and how the viewfinder
blinks, shut the beeps off. I have those beeps popping up on a friend's
wedding video - the videographer had a camera that boosted microphone gain
during long tele shots, and during the quiet parts of the ceremony my focus
beeps are audible (so were every cough, shift, and belch of the guests, so
nobody really noticed but me...). Didn't help that photographers were
banished to the balcony, so we were together up there.

At least once, set out specifically to experiment with the
multi-exposure mode, long exposures, and second-curtain sync (together or
separately). These can be very hard to do with a camera not-equipped for
them, so take advantage. Between exposures of a multiple-exposure, you can
change the number of exposures you want to take, something I discovered by
happy accident.

Remember that Custom Functions do *not* work in DuckieHorsie modes, you
know, the ones with the little pictures instead of letters like P, TV, AV,
and M. Just avoid using them altogether.

Recalibrate the same Eye-Control setting numerous times, without
resetting it. The camera 'learns' from multiple calibration, and becomes
more accurate.

Memorize the metering mode settings - the paint didn't adhere well
enough to the top plate on mine, and has rubbed off that end entirely.

The cool part: the corded remote release takes a simple 2.5mm micro
stereo plug, available at any electronic parts store. It's only a basic
relay: close the base and middle of the stereo plug contacts to meter (same
as half-press of the shutter release), and close all three to trip the
shutter. Simple! If you're the least bit handy in electronics, you can now
make numerous devices that will trip the shutter remotely, such as your own
corded remote release, a motion-detector, a radio-controlled release, an IR,
a sound-activated, whatever. I have a very basic schematic for your own
corded release on my site at #

Okay, that oughta hold you for a while... ;-)

- Al.

--
Remove 'block' for direct reply.
Online photo gallery at #

A couple off the top of my head:

I found I preferred using partial area metering to using evaluative
metering in most situations. Just make a note to try it sometime and see if
it works for you.

I wear eyeglasses and I found that Canon's oversize eyecup, ED-E was
wonderful for me.

That's about all I can think of right now.

Bill Jameson

...

I still have mine, and now I'm hungering for that 70-200mm L IS baby,
drool.

Patrick L.