Hello There. Have you ever experienced a "No Spin" Issue with your front load...
Hello There. Have you ever experienced a "No Spin" Issue with your front load washer unit? This problem will have three main causes, and we will discuss them all, shortly. Let me explain what a "No Spin" issue is.
Ok, lets say you are beginning to load your unit with a normal size load. Once the unit is properly loaded, you will, generally, close the door and start to set the washers timer, or control panel to the desired cycle. Now, lets push the start button, or pull the timer. Ok, the unit has began to initiate the filling of the drum, and the wash is on its way. Essentially, the unit will need to run through the cycle for five to eight minutes(Depending on what cycle you have selected), before the final spin will occur. Lets fast forward to the spin cycle, shall we?
Ok, this is when the "No Spin" issue will occur, if your front loader is experiencing difficulties. Just after the rinse, normally, the spin off will be initiated by the main control unit. In a normal situation, the spin off will occur, without any problems, but if there are issues within the unit, there will be no spin. The unit will, abruptly, shutdown and a error code will be issued. I should point out that the error code may not be issued in most cases, due to a not so normal issue. lets discuss some of the normal issues, as well as, the abnormal issue.
One of the most common issues will be a failed door switch. This is a built in safety switch, that is programed to lock the unit, during a full scale spin. It will, also, lock the door during the wash cycle, as well. If the door switch is experiencing difficulties, the unit may run passed the rinse and wash cycle, perfectly, but the final spin will be interrupted. This is a safety feature that was installed to prevent injury. To correct this issue, you will be required to replace the failed component. Here are a few tips on how to do this yourself, if you choose.
The door switch may be accessible without removing the front panel or cabinet. The switch is, generally, located in the front panel of your unit, around the perimeter of the door opening. Inspect the switch to determine if it can be popped out or accessed by removing a fastening screw. If it cannot be accessed from the front, it will be necessary to open the washer cabinet. When reaching into the unit, be careful. There are very sharp edges, within the interior cabinets structure.
Access varies by model, if your unit has a lower front panel, start there. It should lift up and off or it may be held in place with a few screws or snaps. It may also have a catch at the edges or center gap between the lower panel and main panel. To release the catch, gently insert a flat sculpting knife, wrapped with duct tape, into the gap and push back the catch. The next easiest access point is the rear panel. The rear access panel is held in place with several screws along the outer edges. The last resort method of access is the removal of the entire front panel. The front panel supports the front of the drum and so removal is more difficult. Front panel removal varies. In general, access is gained by lifting the top, removing the screws that secure the front panel, and detaching the panel from the drum.
Ok, once you have gained access into the unit, Locate the door switch, it typically has two wires connected to it. Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals. Be sure to not pull on the wires. These wires are very fragile when forced. You may need to use a pair of long-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corroded ends. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced. Try cleaning the connectors ,and terminal with a red ruby eraser tip. this may sound crude, but it is very effective. replace the terminals and connectors if they are not able to be cleaned with this method.
Now it is time to confirm the damage. Use a multimeter to test for continuity. Set the meter to the ohms setting X1. For a two wire switch, touch one probe to each terminal. You should get a reading of infinity. With the probes still in place, press and hold the switch, the reading should change to zero. If the switch does not test as described, it should be replaced.
Ok, that will sum up the door switch issue. This will be the most common issue that will cause a "No Spin" issue, but there are a couple more that we will discuss next.
The second issue that will cause a "No Spin" state, will be a failed Motor Control Board. This will be the most expensive problem that will induce the "No Spin" state, in this case. The Motor Control Unit is responsible for regulating the speed of the motor, with the help of the tachometer mounted on the motor shaft. The tachometer and MCU, work together to guide the motors rotation speed. The CCU( central control unit), sends the main command signal, which in return, starts the final spin. If the motor control board is experiencing difficulties, the unit will not be able to initiate the final spin. It may be a very weak spin off, or none at all(complete shutdown). You will, normally, receive an error code when this issue occurs(F06,F15,F10). This will, usually, require you to replace the MCU. Very heavy(overloaded)loads will cause the drum to wobble, abnormally, thus causing the drum to bang up against the MCU box. This will cause the harness to become separated, or completely damage the MCU's circuitry. Damaged circuitry will, essentially, induce erratic resistance levels, thus, causing the unit to have a weak spin, or not spin at all. In order to confirm the damage to the MCU , simply remove the front lower panel, and set it aside. Once the panel is clear, you will be able to access the MCU. The MCU is in close proximity of the motor. It will look like a white box, tucked in the lower left side of the drum assembly. There will be several connectors, connected to the pin ports. The larger(5 pin), connector will be the main testing port. This connector is linked to the motor,and tachometer. Once the port plug is removed from the MCU, you will be able to test the pins for the correct resistance. The correct resistance level for these pins will be 6 ohms. Anything higher, or below, will indicate that the MCU will need to be replaced. This procedure can be tough, so if you are not up to the testing part, and don't have a meter, simply call your local service tech. In some cases, the harness will have slipped off, thus, causing a communication error(F11). If this is the case, just re-connect the separated harness port.
Finally, the last possible cause will be a failed motor(Tachometer failure). This is not a common issue, but it is possible. Gaining access to the motor can be tricky. Generally, you will need to remove the rear access panel. There are several screws to remove, in order to separate the panel from the rear of your unit. Once removed, the drive assembly will be exposed. here is a quick tip on how to confirm drive motor failure. Once you have located the drive motor, pay close attention to the two wire leads connected to the motor. Disconnect the motor's two wire leads from the wiring harness. Set your multimeter to the R x 1 setting. Touch each of the meter's probes to one terminal each. Your motor should show little resistance (a reading of zero, or close to zero).
Secondly, check the ground connection. Place one probe on the bare metal housing of the motor. Place the other probe on each terminal, one at a time. You should not receive any readings on your meter from this test. If your unit motor fails either of these tests, it must be replaced.
I hope this will help you understand what is actually going on during this type of error. a "No spin" state can be very frustrating. The clothes will not spin out, and dry properly. the above descriptions of the more common issue, will help you diagnosis the problem, and isolate which part you will need to replace, thus, saving your hard earned money. Be sure to use caution when testing, and disassembling your unit, as well. Have a great day.
NOTE_ This post will cover all Kenmore HE4T, and Whirlpool duet units. It will cover most Kitchen Aid Front Loading Automatic units, as well.
on Dec 08, 2009 | Carabiners & Quickdraws