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You have 2 separate valves, 1 for the water dispenser and 1 for the ice maker. (otherwise your ice maker would overflow every time you got water from the dispenser and your dispenser would flow every time the ice maker went to refill.) They are fed from the same tubing.
The cube/crushed ice motor is completely separate from the ice maker itself and should have absolutely no bearing on the water flow.
You have narrowed down the problem quite nicely to the ice maker water valve. There is one more thing to check though, the connector. There should be a multi-contact connector from the ice maker to the back wall of the freezer, usually 6-9 wires. Pull that apart and check the cord side (ice maker side) for any corrosion. BE CAREFUL NOT TO TOUCH THE OTHER SIDE AS THERE IS LIVE 110V!!! If you don't see any corrosion, still try try disconnecting and reconnecting 5-10 times and see if that solves your problem. If you see corrosion, unplug the refrigerator before working on the back wall part of the connector. [This connector besides powering the ice maker also allows the ice maker to control the water valve which can't be inside the freezer]
On these models I've noticed that the temperature in the ice maker area warms up due to a ball of ice forming inside the freezer compartment ice maker fan that has vent going to the ice maker. Until it is found whether or not that ball of ice is blocking the vent and fan you won't be able to go to the next step. The switch on the ice maker will test the ice maker by filling it with water and rotating the Forks that dump the ice into the ice bin Appliance 911 Sea Breeze
If you have ice in the maker but none in the bin then the maker is bad. If you have no ice in the maker then the water valve is bad. If the temp is 28 or below in the freezer then the ice mold thermostat will close contacts and harvest a batch of ice IF their is ice in the mold. All Ice makers are not built the same. But they all work the same. The ice maker thermostat gets to harvest temp then the motor and heater are activated to commence harvest. Very near the end of the harvest around 7 seconds of water is applied to the mold to start a fresh batch. I always say if you are not sure go ahead and replace the water valve first. If it turns out yall need a new maker then you already have a new water valve to match it.
OK you mentioned the ice maker had no cubes or not making cubes, try filling tray with water from tap. Let freeze and if the ice drops into ice bin the ice maker is OK. Most times the ice maker thermostat is at fault (pt. 27 in photo) if not cycling. Read OHM's between both coils and they should be very near to same reading, if not replace water control valve=> 4389177 by applying first 120VAC to see if valve opens. If water goes into ice maker this way or OHMs between the two are nearly the same your Ice Maker=>2198597 Ice Maker Assembly may need replaced. If you would like to rebuild your Ice Maker here are the part Breakdown view=> GS5SHAXN Ice Maker Replacement Parts
Their are 2 possible things wrong. The water valve or the ice maker. Nothing else in the ice box determines water fill but the ice maker itself. Since the water valve needs to be replaced when you buy another ice maker( their is no way to repair an electronic ice maker) I say replace the water valve first and see if the ice maker starts working. Then if you have to get a new ice maker you already have a new water valve. First before you do anything stick a thermometer in the freezer and verify the temp is below 25F. An ice maker will not function if the temp is over 25F in the freezer.
OK the ice maker is the boss. It calls for water. Nothing else in the ice box controls the ice maker water but the ice maker itself. How? Fancier models use capacitance of ice mold to correctly fill the ice mold. On board intel monitors the temp of the ice mold by sending power through it and checking for differences in capacitance in the mold. When it hits the sweet spot it monitors the temp till it temps inside the mold determine ice is there and kicks in the harvest cycle. Older styles simply put a measured amount of water into the ice mold at the end of each harvest cycle. You gotta first run a water line to the water valve and then run a line from the water valve up to the Ice Maker fill spout behind the ice box. Nothing to it.
There is a dual acting water valve that feeds the ice maker and door water seperately. If your power went out - chances are good the solenoid on the icemaker side of the valve has failed - so it will not open the valve on the demand of the icemaker timer. To find out - you will need to check that there is voltage at the valve.
Ice maker must be on(arm up) .If the ice maker is turning and not getting water probably the solenoid valve is bad or the line between the valve and the ice maker is broken or frozen, if its frozen the valve is leaking and needs to be replace.For the ice maker to work the freezer must be working fine (freezing )But if everything is ok and the ice maker still dead(not turning) check if it's plugged in,right behind it and if this is ok the ice maker inside board is bad ,but replacing it is probably better to get a new one.
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Check close to the end I have suggestions on how to stop or eliminate delivery tube freeze ups.
Does it make Ice OK?
If so the ice-water valve may be at fault if neither work.
Eliminate water filter or frozen line to reservoir.
Make sure you have water to water valve
Shut off water, remove line, open water line. Catch water in container and
examine. Clean on particles let it flush out some more open and close til
clean. Verify pressure and flow.
Still no water?
Check voltage with a volt meter at the fill valve behind the refrigerator.
Attach volt meter to the coil wire plug just insert probes into them. Then push
the button on the door like your getting water. No volts? If has Ice maker pull
off the other set of wires on water valve and recheck with door switch. Still
no power? Problem in the ice - water door relay or control board.
If these check OK water valve is not opening when power applied replace water
valve. Power shows good replace water valve.
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You need an Ice maker book to tell you what it could be and
what to look for.. Too many items to mention here.
I recommend if your problem is actually the ice maker itself
get a new or rebuilt one. Too many things to detail to make sure it all works
out in the end. However you might replace it and still have a problem. So here
is a list of items to check external of the ice maker to eliminate what might
be something else.
First lets see if we can eliminate some things: Itemized as
Temperature, Water, Water delivery… It is assumed the refrigerator has been
running and not making ice and has remained on (NOT UNPLUGGED AND OFF) freezing
as normal before starting any of these tests and observations. Other wise you
will have to start over with the problem at hand before proceeding.
External of the ice maker:
1st Does the Freezer temp get down to 12'F? . The temp of the
freezer has to be this cold or colder for the ice maker to work. Just because
meat stays frozen (28’F and colder) doesn't mean it will freeze ice (12’F and
colder) and dump it out. You have to know and record your findings to be
objective and not subjective.
If not your problem may not be the ice maker at all. Eliminate it as a source
of heat in the freezer. It’s plugged into the wall of the freezer and has a
heater that warms the ice up to turn it loose for “harvest”. Unplug or remove
it. Recheck the temp after ½ to 1 hour with the doors closed during this time.
If its still not to temp your ice maker may be ok.
A lot of things can cause the temp of the freezer to stay high. But if this is
the situation you need to look for a different problem before condemning and
buying an Ice maker replacement
2nd Does it get water into the ice maker? If the water isn't getting
to it you need to check the water delivery system, water supply, and water
valve in the back.
The water delivery is easiest to check by shutting off the water removing the
supply line and catching the water in a container with the valve open 1 to 2
rounds to flush out any particles and verify good flow and pressure, and makes
sure when you turn it on you have clean water..
After you have eliminated this;
Next if your not getting water to the delivery tube and into
the ice maker
1 of 2 things is stopping the water. Either its: 1 mechanical or 2 electrical in
The easiest to look at is the obvious first. The water is
not falling off the delivery tube? Look inside the freezer. Make sure the
opening of the water delivery tube in back or side of the freezer is open and does
not have ice or frost on it. Ice, here, can freeze and close off the delivery
system. A common problem is lime or scale buildup, causing this ice to form. If
the tube has this problem, defrost it with a hair dryer. Clean the tube with
lime away or CLR. Re try it.