a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Most often the top panel is the first to be removed, a couple screws in the back and then lift and slide forward. That normally gives access to view how the rest of the puzzle went together.I changed bearings on my Crosley and never did move the front cover. This might give you a place to start while waiting for a better answer.
first you need the diagram.... its located behind the timer// .control pannel ....get the diagram look at it ....look for thermister.in diagram .....look at the color code on diagram to find the part .....the wires are marked on diagram in color ...so if the diagram says thermister... wire.. in is blue //wire out.. is white.. look for
them color wires to find the thermister.... thats the only way i know ...let me know ..an good luck //joe// 25 years exp
All the heating and temperature control components are located in the back of the dryer. To access, unplug the dryer and remove the exhaust vent hose. Turn the the dryer around so you can view the back and remove the back panel. With the panel removed, the component locations are as follows:
1. Heating element - located inside the heater box. If bad, the dryer will run, but will not heat. A good reading is about 9 to 13 ohms.
2. Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) - located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. If bad, the dryer will run, but will not heat. A good reading is a short (0 ohms).
3. Hi-Limit Thermostat - located on the outside of the heater box adjacent to the heating element terminals. It works in conjunction with the TCO to help regulate the drum internal temperature. A good reading is a short (0 ohms).
NOTE: If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are found to be defective, it is recommended that you replace BOTH components to prevent premature failure. These two components are commonly sold as a set.
1. Thermal Fuse - located on the blower fan housing. It is a small white plastic looking component with two wires attached. If defective, the dryer will not run at all. If the component is good it should read a short (0 ohms).
2. Internal Bias Thermostat - located on the blower fan housing adjacent to the Thermal Fuse. It has four wires attached to it.
NOTE: All resistance checks should be performed with the component terminal wires disconnected to prevent false readings.
If you have any questions, you can refer to searspartsdirect.com for some helpful exploded view diagrams to assist you. The components I mention are listed under the "Bulkhead" heading as follows:
I would question the information they provided. The "safety thermostat" is listed as part number WE4M137. This is designed to blow like a fuse in the event of an overheat condition and is located on the top left side of the heating element (as viewed from the back).
Your dryer has two other thermostats (which one of the part numbers is the one you have listed). I do not know which is which, without looking at a wiring diagram, but I'm guessing one is the internal bias thermostat and the other is the hi-limit thermostat. The safety thermostat, however, would trip first in the event of an overheat condition. You can view an exploded view diagram of your dryer at searspartsdirect.com. Look under the "Drum" heading for items 505, 506, and 507. I believe you need item 507.
Appliancepartspros carries the part for $35.
Repairclinic.com carries the part for $40.
Pcappliancerepair.com carries the part for $37.
That's a model "110" followed by a whole series of numbers. The 110 prefix identifies the manufacturer as Whirlpool. You need the rest of the number which is usually located on a nameplate along the door opening. Once you have the model number, any of the following repair sites are excellent sources for parts:
This link --->click here<--- is the exploded view for your unit. If you look at diagram 4 (gas valve), the first guess would be a faulty igniter (diagram location 12). This is only a guess for no tests have been done to narrow down the faulty component.
If you need assistance, let me know.
Please take the time to give this solution a fix ya rating.
The model number you provided is for a stacked model washer/dryer combo. If this is correct, look behind the panel directly below the operator console. The manufacturer usually places a wiring diagram behind the panel for service technicians. Post back if it is not there and I will see if I can provide you with a better solution.
E-Mail me and I will send you a copy of my Schematic. It's 2 pics, but they are pretty clear and should help you. I came to the site wher I saw your post looking for a pic of an exploded view of our dryer. Trying to open it to fix the glide bushing. Started makin metal to metal noises lately, so I am assuming it's like a nylon glider for the drum? SyxPakk@Yahoo.Com