By Melissa - usenet poster
SNIP
Exactly, which is a much more realistic statement. Besides, I haven't
seen it mentioned (maybe my fault) that it requires a special camera
to accomodate the lens since it needs to be placed in very close
proximity to the sensor/film. That by itself will guarantee vignetting
and light fall-off issues.
Bart
Solution #1
posted on Aug 02, 2007
Rogers - usenet poster
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The Leica digital-M, of course. :) But that's a couple months out.
Okay, there is no digital rangefinder for a Biogon right now. However, one
can use the digital back on the SWC (aka: 905SWC).
Someday digital will catch up to film technology cameras, except for LF of
course.
Okay, there is no digital rangefinder for a Biogon right now. However, one
can use the digital back on the SWC (aka: 905SWC).
Someday digital will catch up to film technology cameras, except for LF of
course.
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Solution #2
posted on Aug 02, 2007
Cato - usenet poster
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Who claimed that it was?
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
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Solution #4
posted on Aug 02, 2007
Janice - usenet poster
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Yes, the rear lens element does sit close to the film or sensor, however it
does not require a special camera. It is very much at home on a rangefinder.
does not require a special camera. It is very much at home on a rangefinder.
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Solution #6
posted on Aug 02, 2007
Odud - usenet poster
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That's as it should be, since the flash is so close to the
painting that the distance from flash to the center of the painting
is noticeably less than the distance from the flash to the edge of
the painting. You could minimize the difference in brightness by
either moving the A95 farther away from the painting (and using a
greater focal length) or by using a different light source. If the
A95 had a hot shoe or PC connector, an external flash could be
either positioned farther away, or the flash head could be swiveled
so that the light path could be greatly increased by bouncing the
light from the ceiling or a wall. A "smart" external flash that's
triggered by the main flash (not by any of the preflashes) could
also help (you might want to block most of the light emitted by the
A95's internal flash), but the best inexpensive solution might be to
use a couple of cheap halogen or fluorescent work lights to provide
even illumination, along with an appropriate white balance.
painting that the distance from flash to the center of the painting
is noticeably less than the distance from the flash to the edge of
the painting. You could minimize the difference in brightness by
either moving the A95 farther away from the painting (and using a
greater focal length) or by using a different light source. If the
A95 had a hot shoe or PC connector, an external flash could be
either positioned farther away, or the flash head could be swiveled
so that the light path could be greatly increased by bouncing the
light from the ceiling or a wall. A "smart" external flash that's
triggered by the main flash (not by any of the preflashes) could
also help (you might want to block most of the light emitted by the
A95's internal flash), but the best inexpensive solution might be to
use a couple of cheap halogen or fluorescent work lights to provide
even illumination, along with an appropriate white balance.
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