Re: When turning the Machine on the Electricity in the...
The element was going to ground but now that you have disconnected it, the blinking light is the pcb reading an open circuit on the heater and giving an error. Replace the heating element. (Make sure the machine is unplugged before attempting any such work!)
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Fairly easy.disconnect mains drain any surplus water via drain bottom front of machine.access to the heating element is from below so tip machine from one side against wall at45degrees.... I normally use a towel on bottom edge to stop it sliding whilst I unscrew any bottom plate.you will see the heating element housed at the base of drum unit.disconnect wires and unbolt or unscrew element housing .youtube has tutorials on this but many machines are similar in thus respect.good luck
There are three common causes of a dryer not heating. First is a busted heating element. Second, the thermal cut-off has blown. Third, the high limit thermostat is not working.
Disconnect power to the machine and remove the screws at the bottom of the lower front access panel (toe panel) holding it in place. Pull the panel down and off the cabinet. You now have access to the heating circuit.
Remove the heater shield by removing its mounting screw and pulling it off the heater housing.
The heater terminal block is located at the left opening of the heater housing. Disconnect the wire from one of the heater terminals and measure the resistance of the heating element using an ohmmeter set to X1. The resistance should read 7.8 -11.8 ohms. Replace the heating element if the resistance reads open.
Disconnect the wires from the terminals of the heating element and remove the screw securing it to the heater housing. Slide the busted heating element out of the housing and install the new heating element. Secure it with the screw and put the terminal block in place. Connect the heater wires and reinstall the heater shield.
Slide the lower front access panel up into the cabinet and secure it with the screws.
IF YOU NEED TO ASK THEN YOU SHOULD NOT BE DOING IT 1 DISCONNECT WATER AND ELECTRICITY. 2 REMOVE MACHINE. TURN UPSIDE DOWN (DO THIS ON A COUPLE OF TOWELS AS THERE WILL STILL BE WATER IN THE MACHINE. 3.REMOVE BASE PANEL 4 YOUR LOOKING FOR THE OVER TEMPERATURE SWITCH (LOOKS LIKE THE BACK OF A STAINLESS STEEL WATCH) REMOVE FLY LEADS & TEST THIS FIRST IT SHOULD BE CLOSED CERCUIT. IF IT IS CLOSED CERCUIT ATTACH LEADS AGAIN. 5 AFTER THE ABOVE REMOVE THE FLY LEADS FROM THE HEATER ELEMENT AND TEST (IF ITS CLOSED CERCUIT YOUR PROBLEM IS NOT THE HEATER ELEMENT, IT PROBABLY THE CONTROLLER, IF ITS OPEN CERCUIT NEW ELEMENT REQUIRED, TAKE CARE TO ENSURE THAT THE SEALING RING BETWEEN THE ELEMENT HOUSING AND THE INSIDE OF THE DISHWASHER IS SPOTLESS BEFORE YOU PUT THE NEW ELEMENT IN ( A LEAK HERE IS A NIGHTMARE TO CORRECT ONCE YOU HAVE PUT THE WHOLE THING TOGETHER AND CONNECTED THE SERVICES.
If it works fine with the heater off then i would say that fault appears to be element..the readings you get seem okay, put you meter onto megs and check, with wires off if you get electrical leakage between live and earth...Body....of element, it could be element is heating with no water in machine causing it to burn out..this is a problem with this machine...Wish you well
This is usually down to the water heater element needing replacing (when the machine has filled up enough, it turns on the heater - and that's when the fault on the element takes the power out).
To check, unplug the machine from the electricity supply and take the back cover off. In the middle of all the clutter, you'll see the large stainless tank that encloses the drum. Somewhere near the bottom of this, you'll find an oval plate with three terminals (a live, a neutral and an earth). Double check that the machine is unplugged, then remove the live and the neutral (these are the two that go onto slightly insulated posts). Leave the earth (the one that goes straight onto the metalwork) on. If there's any risk that the wires you've taken off are going to touch anything, tape them back with insulating tape. Now plug the machine back in and see if it will run. If it goes further into the cycle without blowing the house electrics, you've proved you have a heater element problem.
Replacements are available off the net or from any local washing machine spares shop - expect to pay a little under £20.