Model du943pwkt0 has power but will not operate.
One possible cause is the door-interlock switch, which is located at the door's upper edge and inside the door. If you're feeling experimental, you can open the door a few inches and use a small screwdriver to gently press the white plastic portion of the switch. While holding the switch closed, press one of the "wash" buttons to see if the process starts after a few seconds delay. If there are no lights on the panel, the switch may have failed.
WARNING: disconnect power to the dishwasher BEFORE attempting any repairs! If you're unsure how to do this, DO NOT proceed-- call a service technician!
If you feel competent to attempt the repair and have access to basic tools and an digital multimeter, you can proceed as follows.
Remove the lower sound-deadening panels and set aside the screws where they won't get lost.
To get access to the switch, remove the Torx screws that secure the door's inner plastic panel. The two screws at the top of the door
hold the door switch in place.
Next, remove the flexible black plastic cover that protects the controls and control-circuit board. Gently press the cover's edge nearest the door until the cover's "feet" slip out of the door's edge.
Set the cover aside.
Examine the door switch assembly. It consists of two Microswitches (tm) held side-by-side in the door-switch bracket by two white plastic rods.
The switch with brown and black wires attached is the master interlock switch. In this case, the switch had failed, overheating the black wire's fast-on terminal and collapsing the switch's internal components.
The switch was manufactured by Micro Switch and is marked as follows (three safety-agency symbols are also printed on the switch):
(date code) V7-1C29E9-000-1
15.1A 1/2HP 125, 250, 277 VAC
1/2A 125 VDC; 1/4A 240 VAC
L215 5A 120 VAC L
You can view a picture of the switch here:
(Supplied for reference only; other sources may exist.)
The switch in question is a normally-open single-pole single-throw type with a pin actuator and 1/4-inch quick disconnect terminals.
If an ohmmeter check shows that the switch is defective (always open), you can remove it by gently pressing out the two plastic pins that hold the assembly together.
Replace the defective switch, making sure that the quick-disconnect terminals are properly in place on the switch's terminals. Reverse the disassembly process, making sure that no wires are misrouted or pinched.
Jan 26, 2010 |