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Re: GE Monogram Fridge/Freezer
A frosty freezer in the back panel is an indication of a defrost failure issue. Problem may lie in the the control board, heater or defrost terminator. The problem usually is a broken defrost element. Hope that helps :)
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F9 is a problem with the oven door lock circuit. If the door is locked, it's probably a bad switch that tells the oven it's locked. If the door isn't locked, it's probably a problem with the lock mechanism.
A common problem on many built-in GE ovens (you don't say if yours is built-in or free standing...) is air circulation in the control panel. The fan that keeps the panel cool either stops working or gets clogged with dirt/dust and can't move any air. This causes the panel to overheat and can cause all kinds of odd problems and error codes. If you have a built-in, check to make sure the fan is working and the mesh screen behind it is clean.
more than likely you have a clogged drain. This occurs when the machine goes into defrost and the melted ice somehow is prevented from draining and therefor refreezing and blocking the drain for the next defrost cycle. Over time it gradually builds and starts voer a larger area. Being you have a top mount refrigerator(freezer on top) there are air ways that connect the freezer to the fridege, which is how its cooled. The best way to resolve this is to unplug the machine for atleast 24-48 hours to let all ice melt
very common freezer is where the cold starts then the fan pushes it to the fresh food side/ your air control adjust the tempt for you . the problems that cause your problem are frost build up o freezer coil . look in freezer for frost on back . listen for your fan when you open the door . if frosty the defrost system has failed and no fan no air flow . the freezer will have problems to . see what you can and get back with me .
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back
wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10
hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic
adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to
melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from
overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches
close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost
cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle. If this ice is not melted it will continue to
build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air
through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge
is usually noticed first followed by the freezer. If the defrost thermostat is bad it can prevent the heater from
coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped
to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be
misshapen it is bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity when
cold and none when warm. You can also bypass the thermostat to see if the
heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs
replaced. The defrost heateris
located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also
go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if
it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when
disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for
voltage when it’s in the defrost mode. If
you have a defrost
can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the
front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts
down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that
means the timer is not running. If it
doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till
everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle. If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer,
replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge
with the controls in some models and on the back in others.
If this is the refrigerator with the digital interface (not a dial knob) then there should be a touch pad for you to press to lower this temperature - otherwise you may have a fridge which is not completely sealed when closed or if you have a ice dispenser the flap covering the ice chute is open