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I have a slide dimmer switch The orange light on the switch plate is flickering, when slid down in the off position?

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  • Anonymous Feb 28, 2009

    Thanks for the response, The dimmer was installed approx. 1 yr ago. The little orange light on the plate flickers and just want to make sure it won't affect the actual wire connections and cause a short... hopefully, if it burns out, it won't harm anything?

  • Dan Todd May 11, 2010

    Do you have it connected to a fluorescent bulb?

  • Terry Lee
    Terry Lee May 11, 2010

    How long have you been using this dimmer before the problem occurs? Or is this a new dimmer? If it is an old dimmer, the dimmer coil could be leaking and need a change.

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This is caused by the neon bulb that is used in most slide dimmer switches, it is normal and doesn't mean anything is wrong with your dimmer. The flickering is because the neon bulb doesn't have the usual filament, but used neon gas to cause the light to glow.

The bulb is used as a locater light for nightime so you can more easily find the switch in the dark. When the light switch is turned on, the neon bulb typically isn't lit.

Hope you find this Very Helpful and best regards!

PS: I just came across this unanswered question and decided to provide an answer to clear this unsolved question from the site.

Posted on Sep 10, 2009

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Switch and dimmer work opposite each other


Refer this issue directly to Lutron. They could have an ineresting explanation!

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Lights flicker in circuit with dimmer switch


Dimmer gone bad.
Buy new dimmer.
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http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-3-way-dimmer.html
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When I dim the light it starts flickering--I have a 3 way TG 600PH-WH


Check rating plate on device, or rating that shows in product manual.
Also if the dimmer does not need neutral wire to power the device, then it will be rated for incandescent-only, and not be rated for CFL
This dimmer is for incandescent light only up to 600 watts, and will not work as expected for CLF bulbs etc

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I want to install the 18023 ge dimmer in the middle of a 4-way switch


Bob, Not quite enough info to be sure how you have this wired, but here's a shot. 3 or 4 way dimming switches are designed to work with other 3 or 4 way on-off switches, not with another dimmer. I never tried this but it is no surprise that it might work only if you keep the dimming function of switch C in the full-bright position, because you are using two dimmers wired in series. For best operation, you should replace C with a regular 3 or 4 way switch.

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How to you install a Leviton Slide Dimmer with Preset No. IPI06 to a double switch box where one switch controls the ligth fixture over the table(the one I want to connect the dimmer to) and the secon


Hi Velie,

I am an electrician and can help you wire this switch. If I understand correctly, you have a two-gang switch box in the wall. In it, you have two switches installed. One switch is a 3-way type, and is one of two (or more) switches used to control preparation area lighting. The other switch is a single pole type and controls a light over your kitchen table. Right?

If this is correct, remove the double switch wall plate. Let's set aside concerns with the 3-way switch. We have nothing to do to this switch so we will not need to remove it from the box, nor will we need to disconnect it. It works independently of the switch that controls the light over the table.

Remove the switch that operates the light over the table. If it is indeed a single pole switch, it will have just two terminals for wires to connect. It will probably also have indications for ON and OFF on the handle. If installed correctly, flipping the toggle up or pressing the top of the switch will turn the light on. If is a 3-way switch, it will have terminals for 3 wires to connect. One of the terminals will be a dark color from the other two. Additionally, no ON and OFF markings are on the switch handle and the light may turn on in either handle position (depending on the position of other switches controlling the light). With this information, I assume that you have now verified that it is in fact, a single pole switch. Right?

If all is going as expected, then we can continue. Shut off the power. Since a single pole switch has only two wires to connect, this should be fairly easy to do. One terminal should have a single wire that goes to the light over the table. The other terminal should have a wire that is powered all the time. It is very possible that the wire that connects to this terminal is ALSO is connected to the the 3-way switch either directly, or by a short length of wire that has a wirenut to connect several wires together. If you need to verify a connection to the 3-way switch, remove the switch from the box if needed (do NOT disconnect any wires). The wire should be connected to the dark colored terminal screw of the 3-way switch. This would indicate that this wire - and those connected by wire nut to it - is the source of constant power. Carefully fold the wires into the box and re-secure the 3-way switch if you pulled it from the box.

You new switch has a single RED wire and TWO black wires. Twist a wirenut cap on ONE of the black wires (it does not matter which). Remove the wire that was determined to be powered all the time (was also connected to the 3-way's dark colored terminal) from the old switch, and twist it around the dimmer switch's remaining BLACK wire with a wirenut. Disconnect the remaining wire from the old switch and twist it around the dimmer switch's RED wire with a wirenut. Add the dimmer switch's GREEN wire in to the bundle of uninsulated ground wires in the wirenut inside the box. Fold all the wires gently into the box and secure the dimmer to the box. Install the wall plate and turn on the power.

I hope this helped & good luck!

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Hi I've got a Lutron electronic slide dimmer


Let's start whittling away some of the information...

First of all, the ZP260QE is from Lightolier,so you may want to give their tech support center a call.
Secondly, ignore the continuity tests, they tell you nothing. Continuity on the secondary is expected because you're on the output of a "true" transformer, which will look like a short on a DC-supplied continuity test. The input to an ELECTRONIC transformers is a switching power supply, which will not look like anything when supplied by a DC voltage/current during a continuity test. Those test results appear normal to me. The +/- 60 also makes sense, if you've measuring voltages on the output of a dimmer, the impedance of the dimmer's off-state and the impedence of the multi-meter makes for some screwy readings that don't always make sense.

Most dimmers rated for electronic low-voltage have protection circuitry built within them to make sure they're not overloaded. Normal incandescent dimmers will just get warmer than usual, these guys should shut down - perhaps that's what you're seeing.

My two suspiciions are either (a) the additional pendent light, combined with the existing track lights, tripped the overload protection, or (b) when you added the pendent light, you got too much of a current inrush that shorted out the components within the dimmer.

Jun 04, 2011 | Lutron Electronic Low-Voltage Dimmer...

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Hello - I have just installed two Lutron eco-dimmers in my kitchen.They work expect that the on/off switch is reversed and yet the dimmer toggler is working correctly: slid up it's on and slide down and it...


Double check the model number - is it a TG-600PH or a TG-603PH?

If its a TG-603PH, and this is part of a 3-way circuit (there's another light switch that turns the lights those same lights on & off), then this is normal. If you flick the other light switch, you'll then see that the dimmer works like it should. This has always been the case with 3-way switches, up doesn't necessarily mean "on" and vice-versa.

If its a TG-603PH, and this is part of a single-pole circuit (this is the only light switch for those lights), then the product is miswired, and upside-down. To fix the miswire, look at the screws on the back of the unit (ignore the green grounding screw for the time being), two of those screws are made of the same material (same color), and only one of them should have an electrical wire going to it. Take that wire out and put it on the other screw of the same color. That fixes the miswire. Then when you re-install the device, flip it upside-down from what it was before.

If its DEFINATELY a single-pole, TG-600PH, then call their tech support center at 1-800-523-9466 - because that makes absolutely no sense.

Good luck!

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1 Answer

I just installed a chandelier. This is a new connection. So I ran a 3 wire from the chanderlier to a new lutron slide dimmer. I then ran a 2 wire from this dimmer to the switch. When I turned the...


Lutron Dimmer manuals
http://www.lutron.com/Service-Support/Technical/InstallationInstructions/Pages/InstallationInstructions.aspx?syst=Dimmers+%26+Switches&prodn=Maestro%C2%AE+dimmer+%26+switch

Lutron manuals show a couple things that might be affecting you lights.
1) Wattage: If you have wrong wattage dimmer
2) Type of light bulb: Dimmers work on different types of bulbs
3) Wiring: You say you got 3 wires going to the chandelier? Why you got 3 wires? Is this a 3 way switch? Are the chandelier bulbs wired separately so you can control groups of bulbs with different switches?
Does the dimmer have 3 screws? A dark-colored screw and 2 brass screws? If so, then that sounds like a 3-way dimmer. A 3-way, is where more than one switch controls the same light.

Does the dimmer have 2 screws? Then that dimmer controls a single circuit. Your black Hot wire from breaker box connects to one screw and the black wire to Load connects to other screw.
A quick glance at Lutron wiring manual shows that Hot and Load wires connect to either screw.
The question is your 3-wires from the chandelier ... does the black Hot wire from breaker arrive in the ceiling box first? Or does it arrive in the wall box first? If your Hot arrives in ceiling box, then the Hot must come down to the switch box and connect to a screw on the dimmer >>> a second wire connects to other screw on dimmer and travels up to the ceiling box where it connects to black wire on chandelier. The white wire on chandelier connects to white Neutral.
4) Dimmer might be bad

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Lights can be turned off and on but not dimming. I felt the wall plate was hot to the touch. The dimmer was working until bulbs were replaced.


If your wallplate is hot, that is a sign of trouble, and possible electrical fire. That dimmer is not made for the load, or it is going bad.

Turn off the dimmer immediately. Do not use the dimmer at all. Replace with a wall switch until you have the correct dimmer.

Each dimmer is rated for Watts. Ordinary electrical switch is rated by amps. Ordinary 15 Amp electrical switch can handle up to 1400 Watts. This means 14 - 100 watt bulbs.

Dimmers are usually not rated for 1400 Watts. They have 500-600 Watt rating. Look at the side of your dimmer for Wattage information that is usually printed on dimmer.

Heavier-duty dimmers cost more and can carry more wattage. Some dimmers carry up to 1800 watts. These kinds of dimmers have aluminum heat sink visible right on the face of dimmer.

In any case, your dimmer is an electrical fire hazard and should be replaced. Add up total wattage of your lights, and read new dimmer package when buying.

Up-vote if this information is helpful. Thanks for the feedback.

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Lights flicker when dimmers are not at full strength


Are the lights the new high efficency flouesent bulbs. If so the will flicker on a dimmer switch. The older dimmer switches are for incodescent bulbs only. Hope this helps. Pls rate the answer.
Kurt

Mar 25, 2009 | Dimmers

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