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First off try taking a vacuum cleaner and cleaning off your coils of any dust, dirt or hair that is blocking good air flow to make sure your refrigerant is as cool as possible before it hits the compressor.
If you have frost on your evaporator coils that means the coils probably are covered in an ice layer which stops the coils from absorbing heat from your refrigerator because believe it or not, 32 F ice is not near as cold as evaporator tubes with refrigerant running thru them at about -20F or lower.
So make sure there is a nice unobstructed air flow to condensing coils and fan so the heat from refrigerator compressor can be carried away properly.
After everything is really clean, turn refrigerator completely off for the night to make sure any ice formed on the coils is melted away. Any ice on the coils will screw up the thermostats and then the refrigerator will turn on the compressor to run even when it shouldn't
So do a complete manual defrost before going back on
Your question does not include what type of system you are asking about, but the assumption is that it is a heat pump. The loud humming is the compressor running by itself while the fan is off.
This is the typical way a reasonably new heat pump operates:
There is a coil temperature sensor that initiates a defrost period to eliminate the frost/ice build up on the outdoor coil. In the defrost mode, the outdoor fan shuts off and the reversing valve in the heat pump reverses the direction of refrigerant flow to warm the outdoor coil. The same coil temperature sensor senses the temperature of the external surface of the coil and tells the defrost control when the frost is gone initiating another 'reverse cycle' to put it back into heating mode. In the heating mode, the outdoor fan runs again.
If you have the heat pump installed where snow drifts accumulate, you will have a problem extracting heat from the outdoor air, and coil frosting and freezing will be exaggerated. If you have excessive ice build up due to a defosting issue, the ice can actually stop the fan from rotating, but you would hear loud bangind and rattling for hours first as the fan blades come in contact with the ice.
If you do not have drifts, but continually have an excessive amount of ice build up, either the sensor is possibly faulty or the defrost control board is faulty. The sensor's clip could easily have been knocked loose from the coil by ice and is no longer sensing coil temperature and if so the result would be the lack of defrost initiation.
your evaporator coil behind this frost on the wall is iced up and you cant blow cold air through solid ice,remove this panel and defrost the coil,then check the defrost heating element below the coil,the defrost thermostat located on the coil or the defrost timer itself for being defective
Since you are getting frost in you frost free refrigerator, tell me that the defrost circuit has a problem. It is made of a defrost timer/module, defrost heater and defrost thermostat. What should happen is that the defrost timer should periodically turn off the compressor for about 30 minutes and turn power to the defrost heater via the thermostat. The heater is attached to the evaporator coil and melts any frost build up on those coils.
It sounds like the defrost circuit has not been working for a while because the ice build up is not allowing the air to circulate around the coils to cool the refrigerator. The typical failures to the defrost circuit are the defrost timer motor fails to advance, or the defrost heater burns out. Hope this helps you.
Hi there I have some stuff for you to read hope this helps you. Cooling is poorFor
an overall understanding of how refrigerators should work, read about
refrigerators in the How Things Work section of our website. A
refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a
problem in one of several areas:Evaporator coilsCondenserPoor
cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator
coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt. Evaporator coilsPoor
cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator
coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside
of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence
of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of
the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the
self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.The
refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in
every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting
system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually,
though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the
circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a
small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow
over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite
an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is
with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from
the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator
to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have
several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip
pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually."
When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the
thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools
properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the
self-defrosting system:The defrost timerThe defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)The defrost heaterIf
it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the
refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a
qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem
Thank you for writing to fix ya. Best Regards Richard
If freezer is icing up, you might have a defrost problem. Frost free models have a heating element that is controlled by a timer to automatically defrost ice, defrost timer turns on defrost heating element every 12 hours to melt ice in freezer and allow good air flow. You can test defrost element with an ohm meter(located inside freezer coils-will have two wires going to a plug connection), if OK replace defrost timer (located in various places depending on make and model
Some models like yours came with a defrost control board and others came with a defrost timer. They should be found inside the fresh food compartment and behind the temperature control panel. You will need to inspect and let me know which you have. Unplug first. If the control board looks or does not look burned it could be bad. The timer can be turned clockwise until compressor stops and should remain stopped for about 25 minutes. and then turn itself back on. If these look good then we need to remove the rear panel inside the freezer and test the defrost element with one wire disconnected to check for continuity. Just to be sure the element has not burned out. The defrost thermostat is connected to the defrost element and will have open contacts inside it above 50 degrees. Do these test with power unplugged and let me know what you find. Sea Breeze