Question about Gb Electrical 100 Amp GE Load Center

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Want to replace the "guts" of a G.E. load center in small box

Have two apt bldgs built in 1969. Both have same size breaker box in kitchens. Size is 10 3/16 X 17 5/8. One bldg. is 60amp and one is 100amp. Want to find "guts" to upgrade. Numbers on 100amp box are 0270 P-0122; Flush Typ TM1410F; replacement parts neutral 456C245G4. Numbers on 60amp box are 1269 P-0114; Flush Typ TX1412F; replacement parts 456C245G3 I don't know which are Model numbers. I have searched all over to no avail. I can't even find a product support help for electrical equipment for G.E.

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You won't find any "guts", like longer busbars, to upgrade. The panels pre-date most of the codes and you will not find replacement parts, except maybe a breaker or two. For panels that old you are looking at the possibility of having aluminum wiring and/or two conductor wiring (hot and neutral). In either case, your local code office or utility company will probably require you to update to current requirements. You cannot connect aluminum to copper without nickel connectors because of galvanic corrosion, and if you are disturbing any of the wiring you will probably need to upgrade to three conductor (hot, neutral, and ground). You should be able to buy "Square D" HOM series replacement panels with breakers for about $120 or less.

--Peter Nomikos, ICC Master Code Professional
Building and Zoning Director, City of Mauldin, SC

Posted on Feb 26, 2009

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If it was done by a licensed electrician it would be within code. The dependency is the load and the box rating. Obviously the current rating of the breaker is a concern as well as what is on it. If you have a low wattage circuit like on bedroom etc and split that with another one, it would be fine. But you should not put something like kitchen outlets on a split circuit.

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Copy following link to determine correct wire and circuit breaker size:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Color-codewire.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-circuit-breaker.html

Be sure to match wire size and breaker amp rating so breaker will trip when heat on wire reaches trip point.
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Ok, I have a half size GE 30 amp tandem breaker I want to install in place of a full size breaker to make room in my box. If I move it down one opening it will fit in, but not in the origional place of the...


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Can a 100AMP Culter Hammer Main Breaker Be Upgraded to 150AMP Without Changing the box or wiring?


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Here are links that show basic wiring inside a breaker box.

Please look at the images.
If you need more help, answer back and we'll go to the next step

http://waterheatertimer.org/See-inside-main-breaker-box.html

http://waterheatertimer.org/240-v-water-heater-circuit.html
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Breaker size:
15 amp breaker connects to 14 gauge wire
20 amp breaker connects to 12 gauge wire
30 amp breaker connects to 10 gauge wire
Home Depot and Lowes have a breaker and wire size size chart next to wire cutting machine
These stores have guys who know the basic breaker size for your big appliances
Each appliance has a name plate showing wattage and voltage.
The wattage tells you what size wire.
The voltage tells you what size breaker and whether you need a 120V breaker or 240V breaker.

To lay out your home wiring:
The kitchen microwave needs a 20Amp 120V 'dedicated' line that goes just to the microwave.
The rest of the kitchen plugs are served by another 20 amp 120V breaker
When laying out rest of house, figure how much wattage might be used in an area.
For example the den might have a big 500Watt TV, and 2 ceiling fans and 4 lights.
Add up the wattage and decide how many plugs and switches you want on each breaker.
Now let's say you have a 20Amp breaker which can carry 1920 Watts for the den.
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The 12 gauge wire has a black, white and bare ground.
The black connects to breaker. The white and ground connect to Neutral busbar.
The 12 gauge wire leaves the breaker box and goes to the first box in the den.
This box is your junction box.
The junction box can be a switch box or a ceiling light box.
You cannot have any junction boxes that are covered by drywall.
Junction boxes must be accessible. All boxes must be accessible.
For example, you choose a ceiling box for your junction box.
The junction box is also the same box your ceiling light connect to.
From your junction box, you branch off a wire that goes to next box.
And then a wire branches off next box and goes to next box. And so on.

If you need more help, answer back and we can help.

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1 Answer

I have a cutler hammer switch box that takes care


Is the motor new or old? Is this a recent problem or has it always been that way? What is the motor used for? Does the motor start and stop a lot, or does it run continuous? Is it constantly under load? Is this residential or commercial use? Approx.how long is the circuit? What size wire and breaker are being used? Does it kick out when it starts or while it's running?
The FLA (Full Load Amps) for that motor is 22 x 1.25 = 28 amps. In GENERAL, a motor like that usually requires a minimum #10 (THHN or THWN) wire on a 30 amp breaker. However, NEC does permit up to a 70 amp breaker (250% of the FLA) if the 30 amp breaker is not sufficient for starting.
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On the other hand, if the circuit is very long, you need to increase the wire size to #8 or larger.
If this is an old motor that didn't have this problem before with your current setup, then you may need a new motor, and increasing the breaker size is not usually the solution, at least not without a qualified electrician actually seeing and evaluating the situation first.



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