Hope someone can help.....
Every time i use my kitchen sprayer I completely lose water pressure (hot& cold) in the sink for a couple of days. This time I lost pressure all together(3 weeks).The sprayer never worked. I have seperate hot cold knobs. How can I take the sprayer out for good? assuming this is the problem.
The problem is in the faucet diverter. Aptly named because it diverts the water pressure from the spout to the sprayer. This is a common problem, and in most cases, a relatively easy fix. The diverter is either broken or sticking in the open position. Depending on the brand of faucet, you can purchase replacement/repair parts at your local home improvement store. If you are the least bit mechanically inclined, you can find repair instructions online from the faucet manufacturer's website or a DIY site.
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sounds like a bad faucet//only if you had good pressure before it was installed..to cheaply test..take the hot water off from the shutoff valve and spray it into a milk jug to see if theres good flow..then replace the faucet assmbly..dont forget to turn off the shutoff valve first..or you will get a watery surprise!
Generally the sprayer trigger assembly will unscrew from the hose. You can then point the hose toward the sink and turn on the water. It should flow freely through the hose when either the hot or cold is on. Generally there is a aerator on the spray head. You can access it by unscrewing the tip of the sprayer assembly and clean out any mineral deposits. There may also be an inline type filter in the handle where it screws onto the hose that can be removed and cleaned. If this doesn't help I would guess the on-off triggering assembly is broken and you would have to replace the sprayer head.Hope this helps.
I had the same issue with an American Standard faucet that I installed new 6 months ago. The diverter can be the issue if you have a sprayer attachment. Try unscrewing the sprayer head from the hose it's attached to. Now run the water full pressure with the hose pointed into the sink, obviously :~). After running the water for about 1 minute, connect the sprayer head back onto the hose, make certain the flat rubber washer and ring gaskets are seated in their grooves properly, and tighten until you have no water leaking from the sprayer head/hose connection. Now try the water through the faucet. If the problem was a temporary diverter issue, your pressure should be fine now. Good luck
Verify the cold water outlet has equal pressure as the hot side outlet at the wall. Check the inlet screen on the cold side water line where it attatches to cold water pipe. The screen could be plugged. Then check the cold side hose for any restrictions. Also check if there is a screen on the outlet side of the cold water hose and see if it is plugged. Otherwise the faucet valve is mis-aligned and will need to be rotated and re-tightened to align the valve to the center so both sides have equal water flow.
If you used the teflon tape to seal the threads on the sprayer connection. Make sure the tape is has not blocked the line. Check for any kinks in the hose and it is not pinned against something.
Turn on the cold water and hold the sprayer over the sink and activate. If nothing happens while still holding the sprayer move from cold water to hot. If still no water there maybe something in the line preventing the sprayer from receiving water.
Highly doubt there is anything mechanically wrong but it has happened before. See if you can swap it for a new one.
this is a problem they didn;t tell any one about, there is a min of 1 gpm that you have to run for it to sence for the unit to come on, if not the unit will not detect the water is even runnig there for will not come on,, as for the kit faucet, it might have a temp control and it may need to have a cartridge change, the water comming from the tankless is nothing like the old tank heater, the water only losses aprox 1 or 2 degree where a tank heater losses almost 5 or more because of the way the cold water is fed into the unit,, thats whay the sprayer works and the faucet doesn't ,, you have control on the sprayer unlike turning the faucet on,,
It is hard to be certain without knowing the type of faucet, but if you have the type that has a single lever, it could be 2 things I can think of. If you have seperate knobs, I can only think of one. If you have the type with knobs, take the aerator screen off the end of the faucet, The screen may be plugged with saw cuttings of pvc or what ever type of pipe, or even the water saver orifice may be stopped up. If water runs freely with aerator off, you obviously have a problem there.
If you have the lever type, the ball valve can be in backwards, or even a little way off, and the water can not get to the faucet. I am guessing, the whole faucet assembly MAY be in backwards, but that too can usually be fixed by changing the ball around.
Hope this fixes you up!
It's neither you nor an unusual problem. It's the faucet. We just installed a similar 2 handle $168 Pfister and had numerous similar and other problems. After 2 hours of expletive laden sweat, bruises, and continuous dumbfoundedness over the incredibly poor design of the cheap plastic pipe fittings and the poor english instructions, we turned it on and immediately had many problems.
1. It jerks the pipes every time you turn it on.
2. It sputters with irregular flow.
3. Pressure is 50% of our corroded 18 year old faucet.
4. When you turn it off, it drips for 10 seconds.
5. The flow out the spout is uneven and dribbles.
These problems are from its chinsy fittings and poor piping design.
1. The fittings are unstable plastic snaps held together only by pressure, O-rings, and cotter pins. No screw fittings at all. This is also dangerous since simply pulling the hoses and pipes such as when stuffing things under the sink could break the seals and cause a flood.
2. The flow diverter block that mixes the hot/cold and side feeds the separate sprayer is nothing more than a small block of plastic with very tiny holes infeeding the hot/cold lines and outfeeding the spout and sprayer. In other wrods, a 2 in, 2 out distributor.
3. The hoses that feed the hot/cold to the diverter take their feed from circular collar that seal the water with plastic-on-plastic pressure, held in place by more cotter pins. The holes in these collars that feed the hoses that lead to the diverter block in the center are also very small so they reduce pressure drastically and cause intermittent and sporatic flow.
4. Due to the very tiny holes in the diverter block, the feed collars, and the spray hose at the diverter block, any sediment or minerals in the water will soon render the faucet completely dysfunctional.
5. The design of the unit makes uninstalling very difficult. The sprayer feeder hose, for example, is made to push in without threads or pins so it has to be ripped out. The large thin ring washers with no gripping edges that hold the hot/cold faucet stems were very difficult to tighten and will be twice as hard to remove. The plain old wind nut style nylon washer-nuts used on l\more utilitarian econoical units are far superior. Shame on Pfister.
Answer: Due to all the above, the answer to your problem, unfortuntely, is the same as for us. To wit: There is no solution other than switching to another brand that doesn't place all its design effort in its looks at the expense of proper function. We feel ripped off. There is nothing uglier than a pig with lipstick.
Bottom line: These Pfister units are all show and no go. Return them if possible and choose another brand whose piping is hopefully more evolved and rugged rather than this plastic toy with only good looks.