Question about Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Whirpool duet dryer not heating

I read the thread concerning DUET dryer...I removed heating element, thermal cut-out and hi limit thermostat...I have no way of testing ohm's...so HOW do I know which, if not all need to be replaced ?

Posted by on

1 Answer

  • Level 2:

    An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points

    MVP:

    An expert that gotĀ 5 achievements.

    Governor:

    An expert whose answer gotĀ voted for 20 times.

    Hot-Shot:

    An expert who has answered 20 questions.

  • Expert
  • 117 Answers

You can buy an inexpensive multimeter for less than 20 bucks, well worth it for this since you have all the parts in front of you.
Then go here.....http://www.wikihow.com/Use-a-Multimeter.

Make sure you have 240 volts at the outlet first!

Best of Luck!!
http://tclaundryrepair.com/

Posted on Feb 25, 2009

1 Suggested Answer

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

F25 error code


The "F25" error code means the control board senses the inlet thermistor shorted. The inlet thermistor is a part of the hi-limit thermostat which is located on the heating element box.

- The hi-limit thermostat kit Part number: AP3094323

Read more: http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/dryer-repair/54078-whirpool-duet-dryer-error-code-f25.html#ixzz2n2Rmgm7a
http://forum.appliancepartspros.com

Dec 10, 2013 | Whirlpool WED9400S Electric Dryer

1 Answer

My whirlpool duet dryer isn't getting warm


default_avatar.gif?1349193192

Annej

Expert

AnneJ EXPERT July 03, 2012

I can understand how important it is to have your dryer working properly. However, without the model number, I can only provide some general information on the issue. There are several components that can cause a dryer to stop heating. These depend on the source of power that the dryer uses. If the dryer is electric the problem could be caused by a failed thermal fuse, hi limit thermostat, control thermostat, thermal cut-off, or heating element. This could also be cause by a blown household breaker (there are two for this type of dryer, and one can blow or pop without the other one), or a failed timer. Some of these will also cause a gas dryer to stop heating, such as the thermostats, the thermal fuse and the thermal cut-off depending on your model. However, there is also the ignitor, the burner, the safety valve, or the coils that can cause it as well. In order to determine which part is causing the problem you will need to test the different components. If you could reply with your model number and any additional details about this, I can then provide a more detailed answer.

Oct 18, 2012 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

Does the Kenmore Series 700 dryer use circuit breakers or a thermal fuse to shutoff the heating element?


All Kenmore Electric Dryers use a thermal cut-off or thermal cut-out, hi-limit thermostat, and a cycling thermostat apart from the motor centrifugal switch as parts of the heating circuit. The thermal cut-off/thermal cut-out and the hi-limit thermostat are located on the heater duct/element duct while the cycling thermostat is located on the blower housing.

jahn27_561.jpg
jahn27_564.jpg
jahn27_563.jpg
jahn27_562.jpg


The thermal cut-off/cut-out serves as a safety measure and blows open should the dryer overheats or should the hi-limit thermostat fails to cut off power to the heating element. Check the continuity of the thermal cut-off/cut-out and if open, replace it including the hi-limit thermostat.

Aug 22, 2011 | Dryers

1 Answer

Element not heating


If the model number is correct, your heating circuits are comprised of the following components:

1. Heating Element
2. Thermal Cut-Out
3. Hi-Limit Thermostat
4. Internal Bias Thermostat
5. Thermal Fuse

You can access your heating circuits by UNPLUGGING the dryer and removing the rear panel.

As viewed from the rear of the dryer, your Heating Element will be located on the RIGHT hand side inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out will be located on the outside of the heater box at the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

The Internal Bias Thermostat and Thermal Fuse are two small components mounted on the Blower Fan housing on the lower LEFT hand side.

You can refer to the following parts illustration for assistance: http://pcappliancerepair.com/model-display.php
The components are listed as follows:

Heating Element (Item 17)
Thermal Cut-Out (Item 6)
Hi-Limit Thermostat (Item 15)
Internal-Bias Thermostat (Item 20)
Thermal Fuse (Item 19)

If the dryer is running, but not heating, this is not always an indication of a blown heating element. If you need assistance on how to troubleshoot a dryer, you can refer to this link:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574266-thorough_dryer_advice

The MOST common causes of a dryer that will not heat are:

1. Blown Thermal Cut-Out (replace the Hi-Limit Thermostat along with the TCO if found to be bad). 2. Bad Heating Element.

3. Missing all , or part, of your input voltage at the wall receptacle - double check your source voltage at the receptacle and/or your circuit breakers.

4. Bad power cord. Check the terminal block on the back of the dryer with the cord plugged in. If the voltage is good at the receptacle, but missing a the terminal block, you may have a bad power cord.

Read through all the information provided and let me know if you have any questions, or need further assistance. I hope you find this information helpful.

NOTE: Take all resistance readings with the dryer UNPLUGGED and the component under test isolated (meaning disconnect any wire leads to ensure the accuracy of your readings).

Apr 19, 2010 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Whirlpool duet dryer won't heat. I've figured out that I'm going to have to take off the front panel (not the back like the guys at the shop said) in order to get out the components that are causing this...


If this is a Whirlpool Duet series ELECTRIC dryer, you are correct. Whoever told you the heating components are in the back of this dryer are WRONG. To access your heating circuits you need to remove the lower toe panel under the door. The access screws are located under the bottom front edge of the dryer. With the screws removed, the heating circuits are visible on the right hand side under the drum.

Your heating circuits are comprised of the following components:

1. Heating Element
2. Thermal Cut-Out
3. Hi-Limit Thermostat
4. Internal Bias Thermostat
5. Thermal Fuse

The heating element will be located inside the heater box. The Hi-limit Thermostat and Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) are the two components that are mounted on the outside of the heater box on the left hand side. The TCO is the component furthest to the back of the dryer. The Hi-Limit Thermostat is located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

The Thermal Fuse and Internal Bias Thermostat are the two components mounted on the blower fan housing directly under the drum. The Thermal Fuse is the smalll plastic component with two wires attached to it, while the Internal Bias thermostat has four wires.

For clarification, you can refer to the following websites to assist you in locating and properly identifying the components of your dryer:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com

All these sites should have helpful exploded view parts illustrations.

In addition, each one of these appliances comes with a tech sheet inside the unit to assist you with troubleshooting. To access, you need to remove the top panel of the dryer by locating and removing the three screws that hold the panel in place in the rear of the dryer. With the screws removed, the panel will slide back, then lift off. The tech sheet should be affixed to the internal cabinet wall on the right hand side. Included in the tech sheet are diagnostics procedures, error code explanations, troubleshooting data and wiring diagrams.

If you need assistance on how to troublehshoot a dryer no heat problem, the following links can also give you some guidance:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574266-thorough_dryer_advice

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576548-dryer_runs_but_does_not_heat

The MOST common causes of heat related problems:

1. Blown Thermal Cut-Out.

2. Missing 1/2 your input voltage at the wall receptacle (the dryer will still run with half the voltage missing, but won't heat - double check your source voltage at the receptacle and/or your circuit breakers.

3. Bad power cord, causing 1/2 the input voltage to be missing.

4. Blown heating element.

Read through all the information provided and let me know if you have any questions, or need further assistance. Please include your MODEL NUMBER (located inside the door opening) when posting questions. I hope you find this information helpful.

NOTE: Take all resistance readings with the dryer UNPLUGGED and the component under test isolated (meaning disconnect any wire leads to ensure the accuracy of your readings).

Before assuming you have an INTERNAL problem with your dryer, make sure you are getting the proper voltage from your wall receptacle and terminal block. This can save you from unnecessary disassembly.

Apr 10, 2010 | Dryers

1 Answer

My dryer has no heat


If the model number you posted this question under is correct, your heating circuits are comprised of the following components:

1. Heating Element
2. Thermal Cut-Out
3. Hi-Limit Thermostat
4. Internal Bias Thermostat
5. Thermal Fuse

You can access your heating circuits by UNPLUGGING the dryer and removing the rear panel.

As viewed from the rear of the dryer, your Heating Element will be located on the RIGHT hand side inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out will be located on the outside of the heater box at the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

The Internal Bias Thermostat and Thermal Fuse are two small components mounted on the Blower Fan housing on the lower LEFT hand side.

You can refer to the following parts illustration for assistance:

http://pcappliancerepair.com/model-display.php

The components are listed as follows:

Heating Element (Item 17)
Thermal Cut-Out (Item 6)
Hi-Limit Thermostat (Item 15)
Internal-Bias Thermostat (Item 20)
Thermal Fuse (Item 19)

If you need assistance on how to troubleshoot a dryer, you can refer to this link:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574266-thorough_dryer_advice

The MOST common causes of heat related problems: 1. Blown Thermal Cut-Out. 2. Missing 1/2 your input voltage at the wall receptacle (the dryer will still run with half the voltage missing, but won't heat - double check your source voltage at the receptacle and/or your circuit breakers. 3. Bad power cord, causing 1/2 the input voltage to be missing. 4. Blown heating element. Read through all the information provided and let me know if you have any questions, or need further assistance. I hope you find this information helpful. NOTE: Take all resistance readings with the dryer UNPLUGGED and the component under test isolated (meaning disconnect any wire leads to ensure the accuracy of your readings).

Apr 02, 2010 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Location fuses Whirpool duet dryer


The thermal fuse is located on the blower housing outlet to the left of the thermistor. For electric dryers, the thermal cut-off and high-limit thermostat are located on the heater housing. For gas dryers, the high-limit thermostat and the flame sensor are located on the burner.

Disconnect the dryer from the power outlet and turn-off the gas supply for gas dryers.

Remove the two screws at the bottom of the toe panel securing it to the cabinet. Pull the toe panel down and off the cabinet.

Check the continuity of the thermal fuse with an ohmmeter set to X1. The ohmmeter should read zero ohms. Replace both the thermal fuse (part #3392519) and the thermistor (part #8577274) if the resistance reads open or infinite. Remove the securing screws and install the replacement part.

Do the same with the thermal cut-off. Replace both the thermal cut-off (part #279973) and the high-limit thermostat (part #3391914) if the resistance reads open or infinite. Remove the securing screws and install the replacement part.

The high-limit thermostat is located next to the heater terminal block and next to it is the thermal cut-off.

Slide the toe panel in place up and into the cabinet and secure it with the screws.

Note: Disconnect the wires from the terminals of the component before performing the continuity test.

Feb 22, 2010 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Whirlpool duet electric dryer


Symptom: Dryer turns on, drum spins, but you have no heat.

Any of the following components are more than likely suspect as being bad:

Heating Element
Thermal Cut-Out
Hi-Limit Thermostat

All these components COMBINED, should cost less than $100. If you fix it yourself, you will avoid the additional cost for labor.

If the dryer isn't blowing ANY air at all, but the drum still turns, you may have a bad blower fan assembly inside the dryer. Or, the blower fan assembly may be clogged.

If your dryer performance has been failing (i.e., clothes taking longer to dry), it may be for a reason. You need to ask yourself when the last time you cleaned the dryer ventilation. If you can't remember, or if it has never been done, this can contribute to the dryer failing. All dryers need proper air flow in order to dry properly. If the ducting becomes clogged, the heating circuits will actually overheat and eventually fail. This usually results in the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) blowing or the Heating Element failing or BOTH. When these components fail, they must be replaced. Remove the dryer hose from the back of the dryer and inspect it thoroughly from where it leaves the dryer to where it exits your home. It should be clear with no kinks or clogs. If your vent line runs under a crawl space make sure it is suspended above the ground and has no sags where lint could collect. RULE OF THUMB: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the vent duct, the BETTER. After you inspect the vent ducting, turn the dryer on and make sure you have forceful air flow coming form the dryer. This will prove that your blower fan is working properly or not. Since you stated that your dryer is not currently heating, the air will be cold, but you should still have some force behind it. If the air flow is weak, you need to clean the duct work INSIDE the dryer. It is important to keep a dryer checked routinely. I recommend once per season (that's 4 times per year). Dryers are the cause of many house fires. These fires are due to lint accumulations inside the unit catching on fire. A little preventive maintenance can prevent significant problems in the future.

Getting to the heating circuit to determine if the components are good or bad is the next step. If your dryer has the lint screen on the top of the unit, you will need to remove the back panel of the dryer to expose the heating circuits. If the dryer has the lint screen in the door, you will need to remove the lower kick panel under the door by using a putty knife to release the retaining clips. They will be located along the seam in the front about 2 inches in from each side. If this is a Kenmore Elite or Whirlpool Duet, the lower lick panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge of the panel. (HINT: placing a block of wood under the front feet of the dryer can make access much easier). If your dryer has no lower kick panel, you have to remove the entire front panel on these models. This is accomplished by lifting the dryer top and removing the screws that hold the front panel in place.

NOTE: The heating circuit should be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Resistance readings are as follows:

Heating Element (located inside heater box) - remove the two leads from the ceramic terminals on the heating element and take a reading across the terminal points. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.

Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) (mounted to the heater box.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component. NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended by most manufacturers to replace BOTH components at the same time. They are often sold as a set. Without doing so, these components can cause potentially fail again.

NOTE: One item I failed to mention - Double check the input power for your dryer FIRST. You should have 220VAC at the receptacle and terminal block. The dryer will STILL tumble and the timer will still function with a portion of the input power missing as these circuits only require 110VAC. The heating circuits, however, require 220VAC to function. If one leg of the receptacle voltage is missing the dryer may exhibit "No Heat" like symptoms. This could also be an indication of a burned or failed power cord. Continuity checks performed with the dryer UNPLUGGED should indicate a short between the prong end of the cord and the respective lugs at the terminal block.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Dec 28, 2009 | Whirlpool Duet 7.0 Cu. Ft. Capacity Plus...

2 Answers

Whirlpool Duet Dryer - Working but no heat


it sounds like your heating element is gone bad. there is no heat if they burn out or get corroded

Jun 28, 2008 | Whirlpool GEW9250 Electric Dryer

2 Answers

Dryer will not heat up


If the dryer turns on, drum spins, but you have no heat, any of the following components could be bad:

Heating Element
Thermal Cut-Out
Hi-Limit Thermostat

All these components COMBINED, should cost less than $100. If you fix it yourself, you will avoid the additional cost for labor.


If the dryer isn't blowing ANY air at all, but the drum still turns, you may have a bad blower fan assembly inside the dryer. Or, the blower fan assembly may be clogged.

If your dryer performance has been failing (i.e., clothes taking longer to dry), it may be for a reason. You need to ask yourself when the last time you cleaned the dryer ventilation. If you can't remember, or if it has never been done, this can contribute to the dryer failing. All dryers need proper air flow in order to dry properly. If the ducting becomes clogged, the heating circuits will actually overheat and eventually fail. This usually results in the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) blowing or the Heating Element failing or BOTH. When these components fail, they must be replaced. Remove the dryer hose from the back of the dryer and inspect it thoroughly from where it leaves the dryer to where it exits your home. It should be clear with no kinks or clogs. If your vent line runs under a crawl space make sure it is suspended above the ground and has no sags where lint could collect. RULE OF THUMB: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the vent duct, the BETTER. After you inspect the vent ducting, turn the dryer on and make sure you have forceful air flow coming form the dryer. This will prove that your blower fan is working properly or not. Since you stated that your dryer is not currently heating, the air will be cold, but you should still have some force behind it. If the air flow is weak, you need to clean the duct work INSIDE the dryer. It is important to keep a dryer checked routinely. I recommend once per season (that's 4 times per year). Dryers are the cause of many house fires. These fires are due to lint accumulations inside the unit catching on fire. A little preventive maintenance can prevent significant problems in the future.

Getting to the heating circuit to determine if the components are good or bad is the next step. Make sure the dryer is UNPLUGGED. The Duet has screws under the bottom edge of the lower panel that you need to remove. Simply remove the screws and the panel drops down, then off. Sometimes the panel can stick. If this occurs, a slight tap on either side will free it.

NOTE: The heating circuit should also be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Resistance readings are as follows:

Heating Element (located inside heater box on the right hand side of the dryer looking in) – remove the two RED leads from the ceramic terminals on the heating element and take a reading across the terminal points. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.

Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) (mounted to the heater box all the way to the back.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component. NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended by most manufacturers to replace BOTH components at the same time. They are often sold as a set.


I hope this information is helpful to you. Post back with comments if you have any further questions. If you can identify a bad part and need assistance locating a replacement, let me know.

Apr 07, 2008 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

Not finding what you are looking for?
Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer Logo

117 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Whirlpool Washing Machines Experts

Dan Webster
Dan Webster

Level 3 Expert

8205 Answers

prem mathew

Level 3 Expert

662 Answers

yadayada
yadayada

Level 3 Expert

71043 Answers

Are you a Whirlpool Washing Machine Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...