Question about Whirlpool LER5636P Electric Dryer

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Whirlpool dryer heat not working

I have a Whirlpool dryer that is no longer heating. The model number is LER7646JQ0. What should I do?

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  • jody_block Feb 27, 2009

    Hi there - the door switch seems to working just fine (what would i be looking for to determine if the door switch is not working properly?). I only found one fuse which is the thermal fuse (how can i tell if the thermal fuse is not working properly?). How can i tell if the heating element is not working properly?



    Regards,



    Jody

  • jody_block Mar 02, 2009

    Mike - thanks for your help. It was the thermal cuttoff.

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DO YOU HAVE A METER? FIRST CHECK THE DOOR SWITCH,SECOND REMOVE THE BACK PANEL AND CHECK ALL FUSES AND THE HEATING ELEMENT,LET ME KNOW WHAT YOU FIND AND WE CAN GO FROM THERE-MIKE

Posted on Feb 26, 2009

  • 1 more comment 
  • MIKE major Feb 28, 2009

    the door switch should have a clicking sound when you push it in and let it out,you need a meter to check the heater box fuse and the heater box element,or you can remove the heater box element and see if you see any broken wires on it,if you don't then you know it was to be the heater box fuse,let me know-mike

  • MIKE major Feb 28, 2009

    SHOULD BE A FIXYA RATING-MIKE

  • MIKE major Mar 02, 2009

    GOOD JOB TROUBLE SHOOTING-MIKE

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Hello, I have whirlpool dryer model # LER7646JQ0. My dryer works great with one exception, it has no heat. I checked the heating element and all of the coils are intact. I then replaced the thermostat and...


Hello avonladywend,


After reading your post I can't help but wonder, have you checked to insure the dryer has 240vac going to it. These dryer's will appear to work almost perfectly with 120vac, with one exception...you guessed it, No Heat !

If you know the location of your homes service panel go to it. Locate the 30amp breaker and turn it all the way "off" and then all the way "on" do not just identify it and assume it is ok because ot doesn't appear "tripped".

This happens all to often when I go to a customers home. The first words out of there mouths is "It's not the breaker I checked" and then I physically check "reset" the breaker ( after verifying the dryer is only receiving 120vac and not 240vac with my meter ) and what do you know, heat !

That could be the problem all it's own. The other thing to look for is a poor connection ( loose and burnt or badly oxidized...or both ) on either of the "hot" cord lines coming into the unit, either the red or black.

Let me know what you find out, but that's where I'd be looking before installing anymore part's.

good luck.

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There is a thermal cut out relay on the heat canister. It must read continuity also.
Remember you must remove at least one wire from each component being tested to get a true open or closed reading. If a wire is left connected you get a false reading.
The heating element could be broken and part of the heater wire touching the canister. This would cause a continuity reading and still no heat.
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