Poulan 2375 w/18 inch bar keeps throwing the chain
I have checked the amount of oil going to the bar and it is sufficent. The chain spun off and the drive links will not seat into the bar anymore. New chain and bar with only 1/2 hour of cutting time. Any clues?
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Re: Poulan 2375 w/18 inch bar keeps throwing the chain
When you put the chain on new did you adjust the tension on the chain.most new chains need to be ran a few minutes to heat them up a little.then you need to readjust chian so it doesn't sag out of the bottem of the bar,also when you adjust the chain you need to push the tip of the bar down so the bar is in the up possition.if you don't the bar will work it's way up and loosen the chain.
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CHAIN STRETCHS AS IT HEATS - KEEP CHAIN TIGHTENED CORRECTLY AND ALWAYS KEEP OIL IN OILER AND MAKE SURE IT OILS THE CHAIN. IF THIS DOESN'T FIX - REPLACE THE CHAIN. IF IT STILL HAPPENS THEN REPLACE BAR. WILL FAIL AGAIN WITHOUT OIL. POULAN WILL NOT HOLD UP WITHOUT CHAIN LUBRICATION. WORSE THAN OTHERS. IF CHAIN OR BAR OVERHEATED YOU'LL WORK ON IT MORE THAN YOU CUT. OIL IS THE KEY TO CUT WITH A POULAN!
Take the exhaust off so you can see the side of the piston, if it is scored or damaged it means it has probably been run without oil added to the petrol. That can cause the problems you are having, if it is throw it away, its not worth repairing
is the area where you tighten up the chain clean there are a few holes in the bar that allow the oil to drip on to the chain if its been used for a while the holes could be clogged take off the bar and chain and clean with a small flat head screwdriver the groove that the chain rides in there should be a hole that goes all the way through make sure you wipe away any wood chipsthen run it and see if it throws out any oil
Release the chain brake, then remove the bar and chain. Lay the chain out on a flat surface and look for damaged links, or sideways bending of the chain. Replace the chain if you find any such damage. Clean the engine surface where the bar fits to, then start the engine--oil should ooze out of the small port there. If ok, then clean the small oil passages that run from the large holes out to the chain groove on each edge of the bar. Re-assemble the bar and new chain (if required)--tighten the chain adjuster until the chain just comes up to the lower bar, but not so tight that you can't turn the chain by hand. Tighten the bar mounting hardware and recheck the chain tension again. The chain teeth must be properly sharpened at a consistent angle to assure rapid cutting which keeps the chain heat down. With a new chain, recheck the tension every so often as the chain will initially stretch when used. Test the chain oiling by running the bar tip near some cardboard at speed for a moment or so--it should throw off a thin line of oil. There should be an oil-volume adjustment screw on the engine to achieve this. Check the sawdust coming from the cut--it should be small chips and curls if the teeth are sharp, but it will be a fine dust if they become dull. Hope this helps!
Remove the chain bar and look just below the bolts holding it in place. You'll see a small hole where the chain bar oil pump pushes out oil. Make sure this hole is clear then run the saw without the bar on.
Be CAREFUL of fingers!
You should see oil coming out of that hole. If not, you may need more serious work done with the saw (chain bar pump replacement).
The filter can usually be caught with a hooked wire and drawn up far enough to deal with the filter. Oil filters are not prone to plugging unless the oil used is contaminated. If you run the engine without the bar and chain attached, oil should ooze out of the engine side port. If nothing, suspect problems with the oil pump. Some saws use a plastic gear in the pump and can strip the teeth of the gear. You should find it located behind the clutch assembly. Once you have oil flowing from the engine, clean the bar drive-end oil ports that go from the large holes out to the chain groove on each side. Finally, run the bar tip near some cardboard--it should throw off a thin line of oil. I have no idea what the plastic tube might be (a manual pumper perhaps?). Hope this helps!
Is the chain being properly oiled as it runs? Check by running the tip of the bar at speed near a piece of cardboard for several moments--it should throw off a thin line of oil onto the cardboard. If nothing, remove the bar and chain, start the engine and observe the oil port in the side of the engine case. At speed, it should ooze out oil. If so, clean the bar drive-end holes that feed oil to the chain. Pay particular attention to the two small holes that run from the large holes out to the chain groove. If nothing comes out of the engine port, then an inspection of the pump, lines, and tank filter are in order. Make sure the chain is properly sharpened as a dull chain makes a lot of heat which allows the chain to stretch. You should not have to apply high force to the saw to get it to cut. Set chain tension so that the chain does not droop from the bar bottom, but turns easily by hand. Hope this helps!
The chainsaw squirts oil into the oil hole in the bar. The chain picks up the oil and carries it all the way around the bar lubing it and the chain. When you quit running the saw there is still a lot of oil on the chain and all away around the chain guide in the bar. Once you quit running it and it sets a while all the oil will follow gravity and run to the bottom of the bar and drip out into the case. It's just another one of life's little nuisances. Have a nice day! Obwhon
Need to make sure your oiler is working. If not the chain will get hot and expand thus locking it up from friction. There is about a 1/4" hole in the rear of the bar where the oiler feeds oil to the chain. Sometimes this hole gets filled with sawdust. Clean it out and make sure you're getting oil to the chain. When you rev the engine and the chain turns you should see it throwing a small amount of oil off the tip of the bar towards the ground. If you don't see the oil then you need to get that fixed.