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Re: Water inside bottom of freezer.
Water accumulation in the freezer more commonly points to the ice maker. Over a period of time, water entering the ice maker can slowly freeze to the point it provides a small restriction and prevents a portion of the water from entering the ice maker. The plastic spout/tube could also have either cracked or shifted and is allowing a small amount of water to leak into the freezer.
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Your drainage hole is blocked.. empty the bottom half of the fridge and freezer .. you will see a V shaped moulding in the back panel INSIDE each compartment.. smack bag in the middle is a hole that allows the condensate to run away, but sometimes a pea or other obstruction clogs it, so the water cannot run away, but is held back.. where it refreezes, blocking the tube further, and causing the next cycle to run the water into the bottom of the appliance, where it refreezes.. but later thaws and floods.... I suggest you pull out the appliance so you can check the drainage tube(s) by eye.. use a chopstick, and if you can find a cheap shop selling 'bottle brushes' about the width of your little finger, push that up and down it a few times to properly clean it..
Your freezer defrost drainage tube may not be routed to the evaporator tray under the refrigerator. If this is the case, humidity condensed from the freezer, then drained down the tube will be dripped onto the floor.
The second theory is that the drainage tube could be blocked.
Humidity in the freezer is removed from the air sent to a drainage tray, at the rear of the freezer, which has a drainage tube which carries the water to an evaporation tray at the bottom of the refrigerator unit, on my GE. if the drainage tube is blocked, the water will find another route.
Check the drainage tube after you find it. First try inspection. if there is standing water in tray in the freezer, use a flexible wire to clear the tube.
Before suspecting the solenoid water valve, check the inlet tube, where the water enters the freezer. Sometimes this tube gets blocked with ice. From the back of the refrig, you can disconnect the water line where it goes into the back wall of the freezer and you should be able to blow air through it. (having the freezer door open while attempting this will prevent any back pressure build up) If you can not blow through it, it is plugged with ice. Melt the ice with a hair blower from the inside of the freezer. Ice blockage can result from water seepage past the water valve (generally requires replacement of the solenoid water valve) or the fill tube extention may be too long, resulting in the tube touching the end of the fill cup on the icemaker, which results in a build up of ice and blockage in the fill tube. (this only requires cutting the fill tube a bit shorter, so it does not touch the end of the icemaker's fill cup)
If you were able to blow through the tube, you have either a bad solenoid water valve, or the icemaker is not giving it power (generally only 6 seconds of power near the end of the cycle) which would mean a new icemaker, as replacement icemaker parts are not available.
Self-defrosting refrigerators usually dispose of the water generated during the defrost cycle via a tube or channel that directs the water to a pan at the bottom of the refrigerator. From the pan, the water normally evaporates.
If the tube or channel is clogged or obstructed, the water backs up and leaks into the inside of the refrigerator compartment. Then the water builds up at the bottom, inside of the refrigerator. When the water has built up for a time it may spill out of the front of the door opening. To fix this problem, clear the drain tube or channel and allow the defrost water to flow down to the drain pan.
In some refrigerators, the defrost water is intentionally directed down the back wall of the refrigerator, where it then flows to the bottom of the refrigerator compartment and out to a small drain--usually located beneath one of the drawers at the bottom of the refrigerator. If the drain becomes clogged or blocked, the water may back up. To fix this problem, clear the obstruction.
Another cause may be the following. The refrigerator may have doorframe heaters to evaporate any condensation on the cabinet frame. If your refrigerator is equipped with a switch inside that says ?energy saver? or something similar, while running in that mode the door heaters are disabled. Turn the switch to the opposite setting and wait 24 hours. If the condensation disappears the problem is solved.
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See my earlier post with the solution dated 6-4-09. There is a GE part you can buy that fixes this problem. It costs $32-35. It is part #WR49X10173 and is called a "Dispenser Water Tube Heater Kit". GOOD LUCK!
Drain line may be plugged. Access from the rear and clean it out. Then melt ice and put some hot water through the drain to insure it is clear. The water should appear in the drain pan under the freezer.
The likely cause is the drainage outlet is blocked by dirt deposits or frozen ice behind the plastic panel inside the freezer compartmrnt. Melted ice overflows the tray insteady of being discharged through the tray's drainage outlet tube.
To check if the tray drainage hole is blocked, it is easy to take off the plastic panel inside the freezer compartment by undoing the six small screws.
Please don't forget to switch off the electric before you attempt to clean the blockage. Good Luck