Question about Kenmore 63942 Dryer
Modern Gas dryers do not have a pilot light. You CANNOT re-light them. They use a glow-bar or spark type igniter to ignite a flame. If you are having problems with ignition, the first thing to check would be if your igniter is working or not. Here's some useful information about igniters you should know and understand:
TWO BASIC IGNITER TYPES:
Carborundum (Cylindrical in shape) – needs to produce 2.5 to 3.0 amps for the gas safety valve to work.
Norton (Rectangular in shape) – needs to produce 3.2 to 3.7 amps for the gas safety valve to work.
NOTE: There is a UNIVERSAL FLAT BAR igniter on the market as well, that can be used as a substitute if the igniter type that came with your range is not available.
An easy way to determine if you may have an igniter problem is to check for a glow or listen for a clicking noise. The igniter typically goes bad in one of two ways, the igniter either stops glowing completely, or becomes weak over time and doesn’t produce enough current to open the gas safety valve (in this case the igniter will still glow but the oven still won’t light). Longer ignition times can be another symptom of an igniter possibly going bad.
Please provide an accurate model number and I can assist you further. If you have questions, please post back and let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.
Posted on Mar 03, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
If your flame sensor is open then the ignitor will not fire up. Read more
Post your model number to any of these fine forums for
a simple answer that will save you lots of money:
Posted on Mar 07, 2009
SOURCE: Kenmore 70 Series
Unplug and turn off the gas feed. The fuse is located in the back of the series 70 attached to the lint housing near the bottom. About 1-1/2 inches long. Easy to remove, only two contact wire attachments. Note which wire goes where. Under $10.00 at an appliance parts store. Start with this fix.
If still no heat take out the ignitor assembly, located in the front, lower left. It is attached to the base of the dryer by 3 screws, the gas feed and two electrical wires with removable metal attachments (note which attachment goes where). The entire assembly will come out and the ingitor is attached to the front end. I took mine to the appliance parts store and it tested OK so it was the fuse. The owner helped me locate the fuse and suggested I try this first. The ignitor coil is about $25.00.
Both of these were easy enough for a novice (like me) to do. It saved a lot of money.
While the dryer was open I vacuumed out all the dust and lint and checked the integrity of the belt.
Posted on Oct 07, 2008
The wheel has left handed threads. Use an impact wrench and an adjustable wrench to get it off or get a vice grips or pipe wrncha nd lock down the shaft then get a stick of wood or a hammer handle and shove it in between two fins at the 3 oclock position. Slam downwards on the wheel and it should pop loose.
Posted on Mar 22, 2009
SOURCE: kenmore 90
The following link explains how to troubleshoot a dryer no heat problem:
First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.
If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.
The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer will exhibit these symptoms.
If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the washer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum. All Kenmore dryers are not constructed the the same. Regardles of location, the Heating Element is located inside the heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals. If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace both components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace. All these parts can be found at appliancepartspros.com, searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, or repairclinic.com.
If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.
Posted on Aug 21, 2009
is it gas ? next time open dryer door and send full model number if it heats for a while you have bad gas coils,when you change them out watch out for the coil with three prongs on it,there is a metal piece that sometime gets stuck in old coil when you remove it,if it happens just poke it out of old coil and slide it back on post where new coil will be installed
Posted on Nov 07, 2009
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