Question about Kenmore Elite HE4 Electric Dryer

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Kenmore dryer, 3 years old, drum motor will not start by itself, if you help it , it will run at full speed just fine

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  • Kenmore Master
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You either have lint and debris in the motor and blower wheel or you have a bad motor.

Posted on Feb 23, 2009

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2 Answers

My dryer is squealing


If it only squeals when the drum is full, it is the drive belt slipping. If it does it when the dryer is empty, it could be a dry shaft on the tension pulley, or a dry bearing on the motor itself.

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Trying to start dryer, hums and doesn't turn. Dryer is less than 3 years old.


first check the motor capacitor/or start relay on the units motor body,then with the help of someone as you push the start button have someone help start the drum and if it turns at full speed, then the cap is weak or bad,otherwise the motor bearing may be tightening up,but not usually on one this new

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Kenmore 500 series dryer won't start. Only 2.5 years old.


turn the drum with your hand,if it feels hard to move you could have something stuck in the blower wheel that is below the lint filter and behind the duct that the filter slides into or the belt could be jammed,if it moves try starting it it might start you could have a flat spot on the motor and most likely you'll need to replace it,if it'shumming it's the motor making the sound

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when you try to start it again do you hear a humming comeing from the motor? can you jump start it by turning the drum while holding the start button? If you say yes to these questions you have a bad motor.

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Ticking sound is the timer running--so it is not the problem unless a contact has failed or a wire has come loose.  Broken door switch, thermostat failed in open position, or clogged lint filter/exhaust vent/outlet would keep unit from running.  If you can hear the motor running but the drum is not turning then the drum belt is broken.

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May 15, 2009 | Whirlpool GGQ8831L Gas Dryer

1 Answer

Need to know how to remove the motor on a Series 80 elec dryer.


The motor should be removable from the back and will require removal of the back panel. The bearings on these motors are brass "bushing" type, not ball bearing. You may have some success oiling them with a straight weight oil like 30w, but it may not last too long. Once the bushings start to go, it's usually time to replace the motor. You should be able to get another motor for the unit from Sears Parts Direct. I applaud your efforts!

Mar 28, 2009 | Kenmore Dryers

2 Answers

Dryer motor


if the motor buzzes when you push start then it is a bad motor.as long as the drum turns freely by hand.

Oct 29, 2008 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Squeeking noise


Here's a possible troubleshooting fix I just sent to someone else that quite possibly has the same problem you have there now.

Hope it helps you out as well, as it is a bit long, but I'll post the whole reply I sent them and you can use whatever parts of it that will work for you.

Hi,

My name is Frank...

Regarding your possibly broken dryer.

I'm hoping that this info below helps you out even though I know I won't be able to repair/fix your dryer myself personally. Reason why - I'll explain further down.

I've repaired a few gas dryers & washing machines as well in my time. I can honestly say that I'm as close to being an expert as they come - esp when it comes to making repairs on existing dryer parts that can no longer be purchased as they are either obsolete, or way over-priced.

This is what I do for a semi-retired hobby, and sideline self-employed FIX-IT business. Named appropriately - FRANK'S FIX-IT SHOP. It's only an online fix it at present. Keeps me busy instead of being bored to death.

Electric clothes dryers are typically made the same as gas dryers - as to the mechanical drum part. Only thing different in a gas unit is the 110VAC electrical igniter or element, and the gas delivery system that provides the drying heat to the dryer itself.

All else is basically the same...

In an electric clothes dryer all the power comes from the 220VAC source as to the heating element, etc. The mechanical parts are typically the same as that of a gas dryer.

Having said this - the problem with your dryer can only have one of possibly 2 things wrong with it - seeings it's no doubt 220VAC totally electric, unless you actually have gas where you are there, which is rare in Florida these days!

If after you start the drying cycle you quickly open the dryer door, and you notice the drum is actually rotating - until there is the loss of electric power via a safety door switch that kills electric power to the drum motor activity - then there is NOT a problem with a broken drum belt.

If your dryer is older then say 10-15 years, and you really use it alot - then maybe there's a possibility of a broken drum belt (cost is around $10-15 for a new belt part depending on model - usually - and that does not include labor to install it).

Usually you'll hear the motor whining, but no drum 'noise' or movement. Dead giveaway as to a broken belt.

I had replaced 2 belts and 1 IDLER wheel on my own 30+ year old gas Kenmore dryer before selling it, and then picked up a more recent newer model GE washer & gas dryer that someone was just giving away for free. My 30+ year old Kenmore washer had just died on me at the same time is why I upgraded. Can't pass up a great freebie deal like that everyday! Never had to fix anything on my Kenmore washer during the time I owned it - it was GREAT!! I miss it dearly now.....

Though they were both newer GE models I really don't care for GE anything, as I think they are poorly built, as well as is their refrigerator brands as well.

Don't buy GE anything if you don't have to!! You heard it here from me and I know. My GE washer already broke a belt not even being 8-9 years old, and it was hell to replace, and never worked right afterwords as for the water pump part. Very POOR design! Oh well...

The gas dryer works fine, but the lint collector is not anywhere as good as my old Kenmore was. Poor design in my opinion.

I'm looking for another Kenmore or Whirlpool (set) model now, as they are the best. Kenmores are made by Whirlpool btw, just in case you didn't know that. The best in the business!

As to your other possible noise scenario -

The only other weird noise scenario you'll experience if it's a Kenmore dryer is when the drum "spring loaded track IDLER wheel" goes bad. This drum IDLER wheel is located under the drum itself at the back part of the drum and rides in a groove in the drum itself. It also helps to stabilize and counter-balance the drive belt-loaded turning drum that rides on this drum IDLER wheel as it turns. If your dryer does have the rear drum IDLER wheel system, then it just depends on the make and model. Kenmores & Whirlpools are designed this way. Very good design I might add!!

Some, or all GE dryer models may have a rear drum centering bearing assy instead - and in addition to - a front (Support, 3 glide front drum bearing part# 2359 & a Drum front slide bearing part# 2305 times 3 needed). If this/these front support/slide bearing part(s) goes bad usually the "felt duct" will need to be replaced as well. It not only helps to seal and quiet the drum that runs on the Support part, but it also helps to keep clothes from getting in-between the Support C part and helps prevent clothes from getting damaged. If those (3) friction sliders wear out or fall out, and take out or damage the "felt duct" as well, then the noise will be horrendously LOUD.

The front part of the GE drum models usually rides on a separate front panel support assy which can be made of a plastic C shaped device with anti-friction pad strips to help in frictionless rotation of the drum. A cheap but pretty effective design that does away with a front IDLER wheel, or pair of IDLER wheels as it were at the front of the dryer's frame which houses the door assy as well.

Though my Kenmore replacement drum IDLER wheel only cost me around $17 many years ago I see they now are anywhere in the $30+ range. Ouch! If it's the GE rear bearing assy that has gone bad - another Ouch as that part runs around $50+. Just depends on where you are and parts availability.

Most Kenmore/Whirlpool model dryers with the rear spring loaded drum IDLER wheel design do not have a ball bearing design, but rather have a typical cheaper brass bushing design instead, and when the grease lubricant dries out or they become dirty from picking up dirt in the air such as lint from the drum, etc then they begin to SQUEAL or WHINE very loudly.

The longer this goes on like this the hotter the drum IDLER track wheel gets until it melts the "typically" molded plastic housing, and then it really makes a lot of noise, and could actually lend to the drum belt breaking - as due from the added friction & stress from the binding wheel. It can also damage the front "felt duct" material as well. I had to repair mine as best I could as they had n factory replacement part that I knew off.

The only other mechanical parts that could possibly make any squealing type noise would be the electric belt drive motor or the heat blower motor being gas or electric. If the heat blower motor uses a cheaper brass sleeve shaft bushing bearing that would be rare, but could be a noise source as well. The belt drive motor rarely rarely would ever go bad!!

I hope this info helps to narrow down your problem if you are not able to at least open the top up to inspect the dryer yourself. Always unplug the 110VAC power before opening any cover or panel part up though!

That will not only prevent any electrical shock hazard, but will also keep the gas from turning on by mistake - as by solenoid design - if your dryer is gas.

I suspect this is what's wrong with your dryer.

Again - I hope the info helps you out...

Best regards,

Frank

Feb 09, 2008 | GE DBXR463GB Gas Dryer

2 Answers

Kenmore dryer king size capacity 90 series


Sorry to say, but the motor needs to be replaced. motor cost around $150... 9yrs old=not worth fixing...

Jan 03, 2008 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

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