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The fuel may be getting restricted because of dust getting into the gas tank when filling up at the work site while dust is still flying all over from cutting. It only takes enough dust to cover the outside of a tiny filter which is on the end of the rubber fuel line inside your gas tank and handle unit. You could empty it all out and shine a flashlight in the gas cap hole to see the filter surface but I would take it all apart and clean it and the tank. This maintenance will save you breaking the starter rope by cranking it too much.
Release the chain brake and remove the bar and chain. Clean the engine area where the bar fits to, then start the engine--oil should ooze out of the side port. In that case, clean the bar drive-end small oil passages that run from the large holes out to the chain groove on each edge. These passages commonly plug with sawdust/dirt over time and cause greatly reduced oil to the chain/bar. When all is back together, run the saw at speed with the bar tip near some cardboard--it should throw off a thin line of oil after a moment or two of running. Adjust the oil volume screw to achieve that result. Hope this helps!
Possible plastic hose running from fuel tank to primer or from fuel tank to carb is broken or cracked. Remove cover to access the carb and inspect hoses for cracks or being broken. Also inside fuel tank the hoses can break off and not be notice from the outside. The hoses can be replaced but not easily. Small engine parts store should have fuel hose.
Check that the bar oil ports are clean; there should be a small hole or slot on each side of the bar and these can become pluged with sawdust. Also clean the groove in the bar with a small screwdriver or bar cleaning tool every 8 hrs of operation.
If this does not fix the problem check the oil sump screen in the oil tank(usually on the end of a rubber hose); if no screen in tank: remove oil pump and clean(screen is sometimes in oil pump assembly).
Usually, the fuel filter gets gummed-up from leaving it in any kind of fuel for long periods of time. Fish it out of the tank and either clean it in spray-carburetor-cleaner or replace it. Check the condition of the fuel lines while you are at it. Proper storage is to drain the tank and run the engine until it stops. If still won't run, the carburetor internals may need cleaning and re-kitting. Make sure the spark plug is firing correctly. Hope this helps!
The fuel filter is in the gas tank. You need a small stiff wire or something small with a hook on it. There is a fuel line that runs to the bottom of the gas tank. The fuel filter is on the bottom of it. You need to pull that fuel line out of the gas tank to change it. Be careful not to damage the fuel line while trying to fish it out of the tank. It's hard to replace. The air filter should just be under the cover for the carburetor.
You need to set the mixtures for the carburetor. There is usually a rubber grommet on the side of the housing near the carburetor. You will find a Low and High adjustment screw. The default setting for the H and L carburetor jet is usually to turn them in all the way till they stop and back them out a turn and a half. You should start the chainsaw and warm it up untill it will run without choking. Make sure that the air filter is cleaned. Start by turning the low adjustment screw out. You will notice that the rpms should start increasing. keep turning it out until the rpms start to drop then turn it back in a quarter of a turn from where it idled at the fastest rpm. At this point you may need to adjust the idle adjustment till the saw idles at a good speed but not fast enough that the chain turns. You may need to readjust the idle speed so the chain doesn't turn during idle. To set the high adjustment screw will require that you run the saw at max RPM. It may be a good idea to get someone to hold the saw so the bar doesn't hit anything while you're doing this. Hold the throttle trigger all the way down and then turn the high adjustment screw in and out until you find maximum rpm. Turn the screw back in a quarter turn. Your saw is now tuned for the elevation you're currently at.
For chain oiler:
Remove the housing that covers that bar and sprocket. There are two plates on each side of the bar that set over the studs.They may be identical or slightly different depending on the saw but at least one of them will have a hole in it for the oiler. If you remove the bar and both plates you will see the oiler hole on the saw housing. This oiler injects oil through the plate and into a small hole in the bar where the chain picks it up and carries it around the saw. If this hole becomes plugged with sawdust it will keep your saw from oiling the bar proplerly. This hole should be cleaned out periodically. It's not a bad idea to remove the whole chain periodically and clean the chain guide all the way around the bar and get any sawdust buildup out so the oil can flow better.
Whether you learn to do it by hand or buy a saw sharpening attachment keeping a sharp chain is #1 in my book for keeping your saw running properly. The more pressure you have to exert to cut makes the saw run hotter, the bar wears out faster, the chain wears out faster and the sprocket wears out fast plus it's just plain harder on you to run the saw. In my timber cutting days I would file my chain every time I filled the saw with gas. Here is a helpful video for sharpening a saw. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lkSYov5jcO0
been out fighting 2 saws today,r+r lines filters one problem on 1 saw same went from 50/1 to 30/1 quit over heating and evaporating gas,, pulls easier fires an pulls chain well on big cuts//used 50on two cords cool day last year today 80+ over heated
An engine needs three things to run(fuel and air mixed together in the correct proportions,compresion of the fuel/air mixture and ignition).Make carb adjustments,check the compression and the spark from the sparkplug.Priming the engine(put some gas into the sparkplug hole).Try to start the engine.If engine is running only the gas from the cilinder,the chain saw has a fuel delivery problem.Disassembly the carb and clean the inner parts.Check the fuel and air filters,fuel hose and gas tank ventil.
My 372 xp did that and when I talked to the repair shop they even showed me. There is a fiberglass gasket that is used to mount the carburetor to the engine. I have no idea on how this happens, but I saw it with my own eyes. The gasket had actually folded over. They replaced it with a rubber one and have had no problem since. The saw was hard to start, would run as long as I didn't try to cut anything and when I did it would open up and then die. I could be giving wrong information, but that sounds exactly like the problem I was having.