Question about Coleman Propane Forced Air Heater w/Electronic Ignition (50,000-80,000 BTU)

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Gas wont ignite

All components of my furnace work except the pilot light wont ignite the burners, this is an older electronic ignition furnace made by carrier.

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Unless you are well trained in troubleshooting you need a pro .carrier furnastys are overly complex you should call carrier dealer if you want the shortest route to a workin system

Posted on Feb 26, 2009

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Why wont an older model carrier gas furnace light when standing pilot light is lit at all times? Why would there be no gas at the burners


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Is it natural gas or propane? If propane, make sure you are not out of gas. Does it have electronic ignition or a manual pilot? if pilot, make sure the pilot flame is still lit and the control knob is turned to the "On" position. If it has electronic ignition, shut off the power to the furnace and then turn it back on and see if resets and lights.

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I have a magic chef furnace, armstrong series if the pilot light and ignightor both work but the burners wont light is it possible the thermocuppler bad?


The thermocouple keeps the pilot light on. If the flame blows out it shuts off the gas to the pilot lite only the board that has the igniter on it supplies power to open the main burner as long as the igniter is operating. Sounds like the gas valve is nor working.

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Old anthes gas furnace with pilot light. burners will not light.blows cold air


Have to think that the thermocouple has failed if the pilot is on but the furnace main burner doesn't ignite

Apr 05, 2014 | Cozy (W352E) Heater

1 Answer

Plot light will not stay on long enough to start burners


Probably neds confirmation of ignition. Clean up the spark ignition sensor and retry. Their are more than one type of electronic ignition. The direct spark older type pilot light the pilot then confirms it is lit back to the control then the man gas is allowed to come on. Newer furnaces have a draft maotor that sucks a hose and trips a switch to prove the motor is running then the ignitor is allowed to come on, after a few moments the fire is turned on. At that moment in time the flame washes in the flame sensor. That gives the control confirmation of ignition. If eithr of these type systems are dusty or greasy or rusty they cannot confirm ignition. So use some sand cloth to clean them puppys and party on.

Oct 26, 2012 | Dayton Gas Furnace Heater

1 Answer

My furnace wont come on its an automatic pilot so i dont know what the problem is we have enough propane


Hello, Most newer gas furnaces (propane or natural gas) has one of several different types of igniters. The most common one is called a hot surface igniter. This is a ceramic easy to break, glow coil, glowing igniter. Some has a Spark igniter that lights all the burners from a constant spark and some light the burners off a pilot proven /spark igniter. This one sparks then lights a pilot then the burners will come on. In any case if any of these types are not working they could be cracked or broke. Also the inducer draft motor has to be running, the little motor that hooks to the exhaust of the furnace ( if it has one ). This causes the pressure switch to close then the igniter should come on. My suggestion is to call a qualified service tech from your area to assist you. To determine which one of these may be your problem they will have to perform several test. Hope you get going soon. I hope this helped. J

Jan 27, 2011 | Coleman Propane Forced Air Heater...

1 Answer

Heater doesn't come on?


The electronic ignition system in a gas furnace is a modern development that allows more reliable performance than standing pilot furnaces, provides energy savings and contributes to better furnace efficiency (AFUE). With a standing pilot, found most commonly on older low efficiency furnaces (55% to 65% AFUE is not uncommon), a small gas flame is always burning and is known in the lexicon of American home repair as a "pilot light". The problem with this type of "analog" ignition is that it wastes energy by constantly burning gas and can sometimes be unreliable. These issues have led to the development of electronic ignition systems for mid to high efficiency furnaces that exceed the U.S. government's established minimum AFUE rating of 78%. The electronic ignition occurs typically in one of two ways:
  • Intermittent Pilot, or
  • Hot Surface Ignition The intermittent pilot system uses an electronically controlled high voltage electrical spark to ignite the gas pilot and then subsequently the main burners, when the thermostat calls for heat.
    The hot surface ignition system uses an electronically controlled resistance heating element not unlike a light bulb filament (and shown in the photo above), to ignite the gas burner.
    It is important to understand some of the other components of a modern furnace that you will encounter depending on the type of high efficiency furnace you have. Why? Because they can also come into play in repairing an electronic ignition furnace when it won't run properly. Let's take a quick review of the types of furnace designs and components found in high efficiency furnaces using electronic ignition.
  • Nov 14, 2010 | Goodman GMS90703BXA Heater

    1 Answer

    I have a goodman furnace model#GMT045-3A. when I turn it on the electronic pilot works fine and the furnace will start and run about 30-45seconds then shut off. I followed the insructions for restart but...


    On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.

    What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).

    Jan 26, 2010 | Goodman Heating & Cooling

    1 Answer

    No ignition on dayton gas furnace. how hard is it to install new gas valve on a dayton furnace


    not hard but before replacing check pilot light and thermocouple for proper function and setting if pilot light not in right position thermocouple wont open gas valve if electronic ignition check for power and proper gap on igniter also check stat for proper function

    Oct 31, 2009 | Dayton Gas Furnace Heater

    1 Answer

    Oven has small explosion igniting and going off. says tj


    A few years back I helped a neighbor with this same problem in a forced air, gas fired, "horizontal" furnace in his attic.

    After having him cycle the thermostat a couple dozen times while I watched through the opening in the side of the furnace, I finally figured out what was happening.

    First, there were about 6 cast iron burners [about 14 inches long with two rows of gas holes along the length]. These burners were parallel to each other and oriented perpendicular to the long axis of the furnace.

    The gas was fed to the ends of the burners with a pipe manifold. The standing pilot light was at the center between burners 3 and 4. Due to the spacing distance between the burners, the pilot light was too far from even burners 3 and 4, the flame could not "jump" to ignite them, or any of the other burners. The manufacturer had installed a thin sheet metal "tent" which ran from the gas entrance end of burner 1 to burner 6, and was about 2 inches above the burner, AND the pilot light.

    The standing pilot was on all the time. When the gas control valve turned on, gas began to come out of all the burners at the same time. Naturally it came out of the gas supply manifold ends of all the burners.

    The "tent" captured that gas coming from the burners and "filled" up to over the pilot light which ignited the gas at that point, and the flame would propagate along the tent to ignite the gas coming out of all of the burners.

    In my neighbors case, the tent had somehow become dislodged so that it did not cover all of the burner ends. For those burners which it did cover [including the pilot light] it caused the burners to light properly.

    For those burners who's ends were not covered, and who's gas could not be captured, they would NOT ignite simultaneously with the others.

    As these burners WERE feeding gas into the combustion chamber, the gas "envelope" would spread until it reached the nearest flame ignition source, at which time the entire "bubble" of gas would ignite with a minor boom [actually a low energy explosion]. Flame would momentarily shoot out of the burner chamber opening, and from that point the furnace would operate normally until the next restart cycle.

    Although there could be several causes, I suspect that the symptoms you describe are the result of DELAYED IGNITION of some or all of the main burners.

    IF this is the problem, then the solution is to clean all the burners [including the burner outlet holes in the ignition ends of the burners], clean out the burner compartment, AND properly adjust the orientation of whatever system [you have to evaluate how it works from analysis of YOUR furnace] your furnace has to ensure all burners ignite as close to the same time as possible.

    When operating properly, the ignition should be a smooth transition, burner by burner, from the pilot to the farthest burners. In other words. the ignition will "flow" from the pilot outward to each adjacent burner until the farthermost ends ignite last. This usually doesn't take more than one or two seconds at the most.

    Unless you are an experienced handyman, and understand this analysis and instructions, I strongly suggest that you engage the services of a professional furnace technician.

    Feb 13, 2009 | Imperial Commercial Cooking Equipment...

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