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Kenmore dryer 110.64962300 will not heat. I

Kenmore dryer 110.64962300 will not heat. I assume it is the thermostat or heater coil. When we took the access panel off, the bottom of the dryer (cabinet) had about 1 inch of lint all over the bottom. I am assuming this is not normal - the dryer is about 6 years old.

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Check the thermal switch. it looks like a torpedo with 2 wires attched to it. it is on the back of the dryer after he back is off. it is located on the dryer line usually near the bottom.

Posted on Feb 23, 2009


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I have an older (not sure what year) Kenmore dryer, model 87670800. There is no heat. We took the toe panel off while running it and there is a glowing in the back, but only for a minute, then it goes...

that is the heater coil, here is website:

more then likely it may be your thermal fuse, which is located on the backside of the dryer, unplug the dryer and to test you can bypass the fuse by taping the wires together and running the dryer, and running it for about one minute. You should have heat, as this is a safety feature and if it senses to much heat it will blow, meaning that the vent is restricted so when you go to replace fuse you will need to clean the venting system. Good Luck Tim

thermal fuse website:

Jan 23, 2011 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

Change thermostat, tested heater coil, dryer still won't heat on a Kenmore stackable


If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heating the most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glows sometimes it is still not working properly.

if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip....

If you have an electric dryer, you can have many different things that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat.

check out this electric no heat tip...


May 12, 2010 | Kenmore 98702 Stacked Washer/Dryer

1 Answer

Heating element in Kenmore dryer won't turn off (cool down) when drying cycle is over.

if one of the coils on the heating element is touching metal this can happen,if the filter is on top the heater is in the back of dryer,you need to remove the vent line and remove the back panel and it's on the right hand side,if the filter is inside then the heater is behind the front need to remove the heater and inspect it to see if it's broke or where one of the coils are touching metal,if this isn't the problem you'll need a meter to check the thermostats,unplug the dryer before servicing it,but i would check the heater first,let me know what you find

Apr 19, 2010 | Kenmore 62872 Electric Dryer

2 Answers

No heat and believe it to be the thermal fuse on kenmore dryer 63

Unplug it, remove the back, f73a9b7.jpg1. Hi Limit (small limit upper right hand side of this pic) the most frequent problem if dryer RUNS but no heat AND you have
checked the element and found it to be good. 2. heater assembly.
3. 250f limit (if bad no heat, timer won't advance)
4. heater element
5. Fuse(350F), if blown(open) the dryer will NOT run.
(if you do not have a meter remove and inspect this heater coil for breaks).
6. control thermostat
7. heater (warms thermostat to shut it down faster for delicates)

Apr 13, 2010 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

1 Answer

Not heat

Assuming the machine runs, but does not heat at all:

You probably have a failed heater or thermostat. Most dryers have more than one thermostat.

Unplug the dryer! Check the heater for continuity with a meter. If it has no continuity, replace it. Check all thermostats for continuity at room temperature. If any one has no continuity, replace it.

Apr 09, 2010 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

1 Answer

Replaced heating coil now dryer wont start

Assuming that another part has not failed, you probably have a wiring problem.

Make sure the door switch wires are connected. Also, the heater, thermostats, and thermal fuse need to be connected in series, like the links of a chain.

Apr 03, 2010 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

About heating problems

I must assume the dryer does NOT heat.
** UNPLUG a dryer before attempting ANY repairs. Lethal!
Check this website before you start
A dryer heater is controlled by the timer, a thermostat and a high-heat safety switch. The thermostat and safety switch are mounted on the housing around the heater.
Most likely - If the heater is blown, a visual inspection inside the heater housing will see a loose heater wire. Just order the heater.
Next likely - Thermostat problems occur. I replace the thermostat and high-heat safety if either are suspect. Cheap, easy fix. A tech person with a ohmmeter can measure if the high-temp safety is open (it always reads shorted when it works) A thermostat also reads shorted if the heater is cold.6d28571.jpg
Least likely - Controller failure. This can be expensive ($80 - $400) so consider if you want to spend the money. A controller is actually fairly easy to change. Buy a new knob as you are likely to break it without experience and special tools.

Mar 30, 2010 | Kenmore 62602 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Won't heat

You did not say if you had an Electric or Gas dryer.
My expertise is with Electric Dryers.
If you have an Electric Dryer then you problem is probably the heating coil or thermostats.
Unplug the dryer.
To check them remove the back of the dryer, locate the air tube going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside the air tube you will find the heating coil and thermostats.
Remove the wires from the heating coil. Use a continuity meter on the two terminals to check for continuity...if you do not show continuity, then the heater coil is probably faulty.
Good luck,
I hope this helps

Oct 05, 2009 | Kenmore Dryers

2 Answers

Dryer not getting hot

fist make sure the fuses are good.. unit will run on 110 but not heat.. check connectores and cables or pigtail. it not.. then check heater coils and or thermostat...

Jun 13, 2008 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

Kenmore Dryer

If you go to, type in your model number in the Search menu, then look under the "Bulkhead" menu option, you will see an illustration of your dryer. You will need to remove the heater box cover (item #5) to get to the heating element. The element should slide out of the bottom of the heater box housing. Removing the housing from the dryer first makes it easier. Sometimes you may need a little muscle in getting the heater coil to come out.

Have you checked the thermal cut-out(TCO)/hi limit thermostat? This is item #1 in the drawing. If your dryer runs, but does not heat, this is normally the culprit. You are right to assume you could have a heating element problem, but the element tends to be more resilient. In my experience with electric dryers, the thermal cut-out tends to go bad first. It's easier to check and easier to replace as it is mounted on the outside of the heater box. Check for the following:

With the heater box STILL installed, the TCO will be a small component mounted at the top of the heater box housing. The hi-limit thermostat will be mounted at the bottom of the heater box housing next to the ceramic terminal of the heating element. With the dryer UNPLUGGED, disconnect the wires to the TCO and do a resistance reading. It should read 0 ohms if good. Do the same with the hi-limit thermostat. It should also read 0 ohms if good. Last of all perform a reading across the leads of the heating element with the wires unplugged. You should get a reading of 9 - 13 ohms if it is good. If you determine the TCO or hi-limit thermostat to be bad, it is HIGHLY recommended that you replace them BOTH at the same time. They are sold as a set (part #279769). Failure to replace both components could result in part failure. The part number for the heating element is 4391960. I hope this helps you.

Mar 17, 2008 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

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